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LVN
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/12/2009 :  3:59:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit LVN's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Phil, This may help with the backdrop. If you look through my blog there are several references to techniques I use. This one is the clinic a gave at the NMRA convention.

http://lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com/2008_04_01_archive.html The videos might give you an idea as well http://lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com/2009_03_01_archive.html


Chris Lyon
http://www.lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com

Country: Canada | Posts: 5023 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 10/15/2009 :  1:59:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tom, thanks, yes I know my head wasn't there.

Chris, thanks for the links, I am not ready to do the actual painting yet. I need to get some white paper and a big box of crayons.
After looking at this for awhile I am thinking that i need to place the engine house in place and am thinking that a village/town behind would be better on that convex backdrop. Will get something sketch up.


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

Tim Kerkhoff
Fireman



Posted - 10/16/2009 :  04:20:00 AM  Show Profile  Send Tim Kerkhoff a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Phil,

Getting caught up here, I really like that lift out section and that is a neat idea with the plungers.



Country: USA | Posts: 5869 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 10/16/2009 :  2:52:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tim, Thanks, For some reason I wasn't real keen on having to unplug/plug wires whenever I wanted to move the liftout. I had thought about a rubegoldberg setup with counter weights but then the bumper would have been sticking up thru the tracks and with space at a premium, the last inch or so I could sure use so came up with this.

Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

bcfan1064
Engine Wiper



Posted - 10/16/2009 :  8:57:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great blog I am definately going to give you back drops a try, looks easy and fun. Thank you LVN.

-Barry S



Country: USA | Posts: 164 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 10/17/2009 :  5:23:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi, All,
An update on my turnouts. I am thinking of using these switches (Radio Shack # 275-0625 spdt micromini toggle switch) as a harp like stand.

a pic of the switch:



I filed down the toggle and slipped the brass square tube with the arm over it


here is an view under


and another view



I am having an issue and need some help for ideas on how to fix. The toggle wants to rotate in the switch body which causes inconsistent throws. So, I need ideas on how to stop the twisting.
Thanks, for your help.


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

Mainframer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 10/18/2009 :  12:33:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil, can you glue a strip of wood across the head ties so that it butts up against the end of the body to keep it from rotating. Tom


Country: USA | Posts: 304 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 10/18/2009 :  12:53:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tom,
That would work if the switch body was moving but it is not. It is the toggle lever that rotates. If the lever wasn't tapered I could have slipped the tubing over and let it rotate inside. With the taper the bottom of the tubing flops around. Which is why I filed the lever square.


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

littledave
Engine Wiper



Posted - 10/18/2009 :  02:18:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil,
How about filling the tubing with epoxy ?
Dave



Country: USA | Posts: 230 Go to Top of Page

sparkman
Engine Wiper



Posted - 10/18/2009 :  11:36:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil,
Andy Pierce wrote an article doing something similar. Instead of sliding a tube over the toggle, he drilled a hole through it. The linkage than went into the hole and this eliminated the twisting you are encountering.

Another option would be to drill a hole through the square tube into the toggle so as to pin the toggle and keep it from rotating.
Just some ideas.
-david j



Country: USA | Posts: 468 Go to Top of Page

BBLmber
Fireman



Posted - 10/18/2009 :  1:06:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil, check out Tom Sullivan's Gauley River thread in the on30 forum. He found some mini switches at Radio Shack and he use Grant line switch stands on top of them.

Mark


W,L,&E

Country: USA | Posts: 4222 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 10/18/2009 :  4:26:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mark,
Thanks for the referral to Tom S's On30 site. I couldn't remember where I saw this idea. I might end up using his method but I was hoping to use the toggle as a stand in for a harp stand. I don't know if one of the commercial harp stands could be pinned to his switch and slide it.

I have come up with a solution after sleeping on it which is to drill and pin the toggle thru the pivot point. Exactly where that is is somewhere in the threaded tower. I took one apart and here is a rough exploded sketch:



as you can see there isn't a way that I could modifiy the innards and I really don't want to take 23 or so apart to do so.

Dave and David, I don't think that you are understanding the problem. Maybe the next two pics might help.





I need to keep the arm from twisting/rotating while moving back and forth.
I am feeling that I am not getting the problem across. Sorry about that.


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

Bill Uffelman
Crew Chief

Posted - 10/18/2009 :  7:13:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My mags are in storage so I can't check but I believe thsi is the right article

Hand-Throw Switch Machines: An "easy" way to throw
Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette, May/June 1980 page 32
( MACHINE, "ROBINSON, JOHN", SWITCH, TRACK, NGSL )

Bob Robbins used toggles to throw stub swiches added brass tube and rod to add target. Wire rod threw the stub. Can't find photos at the moment.

Bill Uffelman



Country: USA | Posts: 900 Go to Top of Page

littledave
Engine Wiper



Posted - 10/18/2009 :  8:16:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil,
Here is what I came up with,I'm thinking brass stock soldered together and glued to the switch. You could also do this with rectangular tubing cutting slots top and bottom .
Dave




Country: USA | Posts: 230 Go to Top of Page

sparkman
Engine Wiper



Posted - 10/19/2009 :  12:10:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil,
I reread my earlier post and noticed I left some words out of my 2nd option. I think faster than I can type.
What I meant to say is to drill a hole through the tube and the toggle. Then insert a piece of wire so as to pin the tube to the toggle.

Here is a photo of what Andy Pierce did. He took this of an install on a Sn3 layout.
Kind of blurry, but the linkage is directly connected to the toggle with the toggle lengthened to make the harp stand.



If you want you can PM me your email I can send you jpegs of the article.
-david j



Country: USA | Posts: 468 Go to Top of Page
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