Railroad Line Forums - Homemade Custom Decals _ How-to
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 10 | Anonymous Members: 2 | Guests: 101 ]  [ Total: 113 ]  [ Newest Member: jmiller320 ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Mid Scale Model Railroad Forum
 Homemade Custom Decals _ How-to
Next Page
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic |   Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic: mdc shay frame.........were there changes ? Topic Next Topic: Make the HO Bachmann 1870s 4-4-0 Run Better
Page: of 3

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  5:15:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I use the Testors Sure Thing Decal Maker program Standard Edition I got for $9.95.
http://www.decalgear.com/DG/Category.asp?CatCode=DM_FEATURES
There is also a Basic Edition software for $6.95 but you donít have all the custom decaling abilities.
http://www.decalgear.com/DG/Product.asp?ProdCode=62101-1



It's a good program. It comes with program install CD, a can of decal bonder and sheets of both clear and white backing decal paper 5 ĹĒ x 8 ĹĒ. I found that the white backing paper is good for making signs for structures, and the clear decal paper good for decals to use on Locomotives, Rolling Stock and Vehicles. I will be using the Mini Metals HO 1:87 IH R-90 undecorated Cab Van #30178 for this custom decaling project.



For this how-to I will be using the clear decal paper, for lettering a meat delivery vehicle for my layouts steer ranch. You can scan images directly into this program. You can import images from your computer files. You can use it to size images as you want and add text as well. I use Adobe Photoshop CS2, but any graphics program can be used. You can also use Paint Shop to work on images and paste them back and forth between the two. The picture below shows the Decal Program with the three Steer Heads I will be using for this project, in the lower right side of the paper template.



I use the Testors and Micromark inkjet decal paper because I use an Epson Photo 820 inkjet printer. I've had good luck with both. You can also get paper for laser printers. If you have a specific design, you can take the image into a paint program and work on it and then paste it as an object into the decal program. If you have a photo of what you need you can scan it in. When printing the decal I set my printer to print on Best quality and glossy photo paper. I always print out a test run on regular paper until I am satisfied with my design. Since I work in HO scale, I usually make two sets of decals for each project on the same sheet in case I screw up a decal. Donít ask me why I know this. Also, I add other decals to the sheet so the decal paper isnít wasted for just a few decals. I let the decal sheet dry for a couple of hours after I make it. Then I spray the decals with Testors Decal Bonder that comes with the kit, and can also be bought separately at your LHS, and let that dry overnight. A light even coat of the Decal Bonder is all that is necessary. If you spray the Decal Bonder on too thick, it makes the decal too thick and stiff, and then it won't let details show through. It's easy to spray on too much with a spray can. I shake it really well. Then I spray one pass each way while keeping the can moving. That is what I have found to work best. Decals have been cut out of the sheet, now ready to trim around the image and place onto the vehicle.



When applying the decals I dip the decal in warm water for 2-3 seconds and set it on a paper towel. I use the Microset Decal Setting Solution on the vehicle first. After the decal has set for about 20-30 seconds I pick it up with a pair of tweezers and slide it off the backing onto the location where I want it with a soft brush. I use the soft brush to position it exactly where I want it. Sometimes you may have to use the soft brush very gently to work out any tiny air bubbles that may be trapped underneath a large decal. If you see any "air bubbles", prick them with a needle. And, I use a decal blotter, with a soft sponge tip that looks like a paint brush, to remove excess water. If you need to use a decal softener on your type of decals, I have found that the Walther's Solvaset is too strong for them. It makes the decal shrivel up and the colors run. I have had much better results with the Microsol Decal Softening Solution. I let the decals dry overnight and then seal them with Dullcote. Or, you can use a gloss coat if you wish. Now, Mr. and Mrs. Gomes can deliver their home grown Beef with a nicely lettered delivery truck.





Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  6:06:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Louis, those decals look great. Iíve had mixed results with my attempts. I think part of it is my impatience Ė not letting the bonder sit overnight. I also used Walthers Solvaset, so next time Iíll use Microsol. Thanks for the tips.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 11219 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard
Engineer



Posted - 10/11/2008 :  6:10:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Louis, your work on the truck and its decaling is very nice, and your explanations about how you did it are clear and informative. Thanks for sharing.


Country: France | Posts: 17604 Go to Top of Page

Peterpools
Engineer



Posted - 10/11/2008 :  6:12:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit Peterpools's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Louis
Thanks For the mini tutorial. without question it's a winner. Excellent decal work.
Peter



Country: USA | Posts: 12335 Go to Top of Page

Tabooma County Rwy
Fireman



Posted - 10/11/2008 :  6:13:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great tutorial, Louis. I haven't made decals in a couple of years, and when I did, I had mixed results, so I'll try your method out for sure.


Country: USA | Posts: 4389 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  7:43:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by George D

Louis, those decals look great. Iíve had mixed results with my attempts. I think part of it is my impatience Ė not letting the bonder sit overnight. I also used Walthers Solvaset, so next time Iíll use Microsol. Thanks for the tips.

George



Thanks for your reply and comments George. Thats the one thing I had to force myself to do. And thats wait. The inkjet printer ink has to realy be dry. Then a light even coat of bonder has to realy be dry. I always leave them for a day, on each step to dry completely. And stay away from the Walther's Solvaset, it's way to strong.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  7:45:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Frederic Testard

Louis, your work on the truck and its decaling is very nice, and your explanations about how you did it are clear and informative. Thanks for sharing.


Thanks for your comments Frederic, it always great to have you check out my projects.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  7:46:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Peterpools

Louis
Thanks For the mini tutorial. without question it's a winner. Excellent decal work.
Peter


Thanks Peter for checking it out and leaving your comments.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  7:50:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tabooma County Rwy

Great tutorial, Louis. I haven't made decals in a couple of years, and when I did, I had mixed results, so I'll try your method out for sure.


Al, thanks for your comments. And see the message I posted for George. Thats the three most important things I found to make it work well.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 10/11/2008 :  7:52:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lou,

Like the others, I have had mixed results in the past. I will have to give your method (and supplies) a try.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25245 Go to Top of Page

Don Brimmer
Fireman



Posted - 10/11/2008 :  7:53:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice job Louis, is that a driver I see in the truck? Great.I also bought the Testor's set and got a great price on more decal paper from eBay. Still trying to master the art of making them, but your tutoral I think has set me straight "let them dry", thanks!!


Country: USA | Posts: 1874 Go to Top of Page

k9wrangler
Fireman



Posted - 10/11/2008 :  9:02:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've used the Testor's decal system in the past and find it works very well. I've not used the Testor's upgraded software, it looks like a decent program and may try it in the future.

That's the same truck you used some time back to show us how to put a driver in isn't it?

Great tutorial.



Country: USA | Posts: 6617 Go to Top of Page

jaynjay
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/12/2008 :  07:08:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Louis,
Thanks for the excellent tutorial on decaling. I gave decaling a try a while back; but my total lack of patience spoiled the whole process.



John

Country: USA | Posts: 4690 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/12/2008 :  11:49:09 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dutchman

Lou,

Like the others, I have had mixed results in the past. I will have to give your method (and supplies) a try.


Thanks Bruce, I'm not one for patience, but that is the key to this type of decaling. When I finding got my self to think patience, patience, patience, they came out nice. So it's all about letting each step dry well.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/12/2008 :  11:52:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Don Brimmer

Nice job Louis, is that a driver I see in the truck? Great.I also bought the Testor's set and got a great price on more decal paper from eBay. Still trying to master the art of making them, but your tutoral I think has set me straight "let them dry", thanks!!


Thanks Don for your comments. And yes, that's a driver in there. I've always been a believer of if it is a vehicle that is on the move, they must have passengers.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/12/2008 :  11:57:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by k9wrangler

I've used the Testor's decal system in the past and find it works very well. I've not used the Testor's upgraded software, it looks like a decent program and may try it in the future.

That's the same truck you used some time back to show us how to put a driver in isn't it?

Great tutorial.


Karl, that's the truck that I put headlights in with the LED in the rear box useing fiber optics.
And you would like the upgrade decal maker. It's a lot more better with all the bells and whistles. You can't just make anything you want with the basic program.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 12723 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 3 Previous Topic: mdc shay frame.........were there changes ? Topic Next Topic: Make the HO Bachmann 1870s 4-4-0 Run Better  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic |   Printer Friendly
Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-14 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.33 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000