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kmackenz
New Hire
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 Posted - 04/06/2008 : 8:56:33 PM
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I have been looking to find what the differences are between the atlas snap switch and the Mark 3 turn outs. I understand the mark 3's come in different turn rates. But what else... Snap switch has a switch machine and other accessories, figure the quality is less...
Any guidance would be appreciated.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 4 |
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Tom Sullivan
Fireman
Premium Member
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 Posted - 04/06/2008 : 10:18:25 PM
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I'll take a shot.....
The snap turnouts have black plastic frogs and are a sharper angle than the Mark 3 #4's......
The Mark 3's all feature a metal frog, that can be powered and are sold in #4 and #6 etc....tom
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Country: USA
| Posts: 2428 |
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Darryl L Huffman
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 04/07/2008 : 3:04:23 PM
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Personally, I prefer the snap switch as the plastic portion of the frog is the smallest Atlas makes. I have used them for 40 years and really like them.
Wiring the metal frogs in the others is really the best way to do it but I am too lazy to do that.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 252 |
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tankertoad70
Fireman
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Posted - 04/13/2008 : 3:32:43 PM
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Down at ye ol' club, we have completed track work on our expansion and used a mix of Mark III and (I guess you could say) regular (plastic frog) switches, depending on the area switching in the expansion. Athearn lokeys seem to "rattle" like crazy going through the Mark III. They don't derail, just bump and grind. The same Athearns make no noise through the plastic frogs, and no bumping and rattling.
Sooo, at least our Athearns quieter and smoother on the lesser expension switch. Go figure.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1189 |
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Mark R.
Engine Wiper
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/19/2008 : 4:47:51 PM
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The Atlas snap switches have a continuous curve through the diverging route. This allows them to directly replace a single piece of Atlas 18" curve snap track. The Customline switches have the same initial radius to the frog at which point they straighten out creating the illusion they aren't as sharp when in fact, from the point to the frog, they are indeed both #4's.
Mark.
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| Roach Custom Painting |
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Country: Canada
| Posts: 254 |
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brakie
Moderator
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/20/2008 : 11:05:06 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Darryl L Huffman
Personally, I prefer the snap switch as the plastic portion of the frog is the smallest Atlas makes. I have used them for 40 years and really like them.
Wiring the metal frogs in the others is really the best way to do it but I am too lazy to do that.
Actually I have found many uses for the snap switch with and without using the provide short 18" curve section..I have even use 'em as crossovers on small ISLs that use ALL snap track components.
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Larry
Engineman
Slate Creek Rail.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6979 |
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jrbernier
New Hire
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Posted - 04/22/2008 : 1:00:16 PM
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The 'Snap Switch' and the Custom Line turnouts are two different animals. The #4 is curved from the points to the frog, but at a more gentle radius. The Atlas Custom Line #4 is actually a #4.5 turnout and divirges from the tangent at a 12.5 degree angle. The Snap Switch with it's continuous 18" radius divirges at a 20 degree angle(measured at the end of the curved leg of the switch). That is why a '1/3' or 10 degree section of 18" radius curved Snap Track is included with the Snap Switch to make it equal to a full section of 18" radius sectional track. The 'Snap Switch' is very usefull in tight industrial/street trackage areas.
One item I have found with the metal frog Custom Line turnouts is that the metal frog sometimes sits a little high. I suspect the turnout was pull from the mold too fast. Anyway, a few swipes with a fine cut mill file will level the frog with the rest of the rails and get rid of that 'clump' tankertoad70 mentioned.
Jim
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Country: USA
| Posts: 15 |
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kmackenz
New Hire
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Posted - 05/01/2008 : 4:00:13 PM
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thanks for all the info!
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Country: USA
| Posts: 4 |
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