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Author Previous Topic: Scratchbuilding an abandoned building Topic Next Topic: Shapes From Matboard Cutters  

Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  1:55:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have started a pawnshop from a photo I found. It will be located on a street that runs paralel to the track and face the track of a late 1800's layout that I am building. The layout will be inside a 19 inch computer monitor that I gutted out. Got all that?
Here is the picture of the real building:


The layout name is the Hannah's Branch and Diamond Back RR. It is named primarily for my daughter. She has two uncle Matt's so the name is a no brainer. It is also named for a friend of mine who owns the CIOR railroad and opens his railroad up to slackers like me for ops.

The construction method was to measure the drawing and redraw it to scale. I then glued that to the back of cardboard from an empty cereal box. I used my chopper and cut the boards paper thing and glued them on the opposite side. Once I was finished I then flipped it back over and cut the windows and doors.

Here is the rough cut windows and doors.


I used my chopper to miter the window and door trim and it performed VERY well. I don't know how I ever got by without this thing. Here is the trimmed out version.


Not too bad huh? Well, it is probably time to put the thing in size persepctive. This is in N scale. The boards are 6 scale inches wide which is roughly 1/32 of an inch. The face of the board is actually the thickness of the board when I cut it. The boards are about 1/140th of an inch thick and are scale at 1 inch. That chopper is a DREAM!


The staining was done by taking a batch and adding them to some AI with black and a hint of brown. I took them out and added more brown and another batch. I removed them and added some chestnut or sienna colored ink and put the last batch in. After drying I mixed the piles up. The really light spots are due to not having a feeder for the chopper which reulted in very slight thickness differences. The light spots are where I ran a razor over the buidling after I have built it to make sure the boards were the same thickness.

Unfortunately, it will be a little bit before I can get back to this one because I have to lay the track out to see how deep the building will be. It will be a flat to some degree. I am also hand laying the track and I have never done that before.

Any comments on anything that anyone would have done differently?

Country: USA | Posts: 394

Don Brimmer
Fireman



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  2:26:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking good Daniel, Glad to see modeling in N Scale. I am doing an abandoned building on a siding in N Scale from a picture to use on a diorama. Also using individual 1 X 6 boards. Will have picture this afternoon!!


Country: USA | Posts: 1874 Go to Top of Page

Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  2:32:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sweet! It is great to see building done with the board on board in N scale!


Country: USA | Posts: 394 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  3:25:24 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Great looking build so far. Board by board in 'N', and self cut too, my hat is off to you. Keep up the updates.

Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 6276 Go to Top of Page

Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  3:54:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks UKGuy, the chopper makes the cutting a breeze though. If I didn't have it then I would have been scribing the boards instead!


Country: USA | Posts: 394 Go to Top of Page

postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  4:30:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi:

I would assume that the lites in your large windows are supposed to be equal in size. You might want to center the verticle strip especially in the left window. One half of the horozontal mullion is lower than the other. Also the tops of your door frames need to be lowered so you can't see sub walls. This is especially true of the far left door frame. Also butt joints would look better the 45 degree mitre joints on frames. Right vertical on the far left door frame does not go to the bottom of the wall. Trim on the stepped part of your false front should over hang equally. Some are equal, some are short and some overhang. The overhang should be equal on all the trim. Joints between your 1/6's are cut at angles. These should be 90 degree cuts. Your corner trim does not have a tight fit against the top of the wall on the right side. Just some suggestions.

Karl S.



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Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  4:55:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by postalkarl

Hi:

I would assume that the lites in your large windows are supposed to be equal in size. You might want to center the verticle strip especially in the left window. One half of the horozontal mullion is lower than the other. Also the tops of your door frames need to be lowered so you can't see sub walls. This is especially true of the far left door frame. Also butt joints would look better the 45 degree mitre joints on frames. Right vertical on the far left door frame does not go to the bottom of the wall. Trim on the stepped part of your false front should over hang equally. Some are equal, some are short and some overhang. The overhang should be equal on all the trim. Joints between your 1/6's are cut at angles. These should be 90 degree cuts. Your corner trim does not have a tight fit against the top of the wall on the right side. Just some suggestions.


Karl S.



Thanks for the suggestions Karl.
The lites weren't important really. The front door will be open and the awning will cover such that you won't be able to see the entire window and so won't notice that it is off. That isn't necessarily the same for the right side. In all honestly I noticed it but the thing was set already and it was just too much of a pain to mess with. Since it will be covered I decided to call it good enough.
The only door that will be open is the main pawnshop door which will be trimmed inside as well so there will be no subwall showing. The handme down shop will have closed doors and the sub wall won't be visable. If they are then a black sharpie should fix the problem. The original used 45's and so did I. Truth is I didn't care what the corners were on the building, I just had fun being able to cut them pretty consistantly. If the corner looks a little sloppy it is because I cut it in place and not with the chopper.
The capitol trim doesn't look very uniform on the original so I wasn't too concerned either. After thinking about your comments though I looked again and realized I didn't take into consideration that the picture is from very slightly off center and I think that leads to some of the uneven look. I will trim the mid level to match the other a bit closer.
The trim on the right is really messed up. I may redo this one altogether. I may also just decide to leave it be as the awning will cover much of it and you will never be able to look at the building straight on enough to tell. The building will sit at an angle in the layout and the case on the monitor will prevent any peeking where one shouldn't be looking.

Now those board ends...that is a whole different story and you are dead right. The problem comes from not having a proper feed to make sure the stock is tightly against the stop. I think I need to get a better stop for cuts and I need a stock feeder. That would result in a difference in those cuts. The wood is so thin that the slanted edge comes from the wood being very barely out of sqaure and the blade missing the end of the material in some places. In others where it is really pronounce it is because I held the knife at an angle them I cut the board down to chopping size. I should have sanded the edges before I chopped it.

The other aspect of this is also that the camera was about 3.5 inches away when I took this picture. When viewed from even a close (around 1 ft) distance much of the problems simply aren't there any more.

Thanks for the constructive criticism. It is really helpful.



Edited by - Wabash Banks on 01/17/2008 4:57:42 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 394 Go to Top of Page

k9wrangler
Engineer



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  7:20:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I recently aquired the same photo, it sits atop my to-do pile awaiting room on the work bench. Had to pawn a couple locomotives to get the capital needed before I begin.

Karl Scribner
Sunfield Twp. Michigan
H.M.F.I.C
Kentucky Southern Railway
The Spartan Line

Country: USA | Posts: 10429 Go to Top of Page

Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/17/2008 :  10:25:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How can you not build a pawn shop that will take locomotives???
What scale are you going to build in?



Country: USA | Posts: 394 Go to Top of Page

Eddie Landreth
Fireman

Posted - 01/17/2008 :  10:45:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks like you're making great progress on it, Daniel. And that picture is great - love the sign on the top. They'll take shoestrings and locos!


Country: USA | Posts: 2714 Go to Top of Page

Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/18/2008 :  08:14:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you! Yeah, the first time I saw it I knew I would have to build it.


Country: USA | Posts: 394 Go to Top of Page

k9wrangler
Engineer



Posted - 01/18/2008 :  09:00:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mine will be in large scale...HO.

Karl Scribner
Sunfield Twp. Michigan
H.M.F.I.C
Kentucky Southern Railway
The Spartan Line

Edited by - k9wrangler on 01/18/2008 09:02:13 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 10429 Go to Top of Page

Wabash Banks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/18/2008 :  09:14:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That will be a lot of fun to watch!


Country: USA | Posts: 394 Go to Top of Page
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