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Frederic Testard
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Posted - 03/30/2011 : 04:19:29 AM
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Kevin, I have been asking French friends who use RoboCraft, a machine that makes the same sort of job as Cricut, and they confirmed they sometimes use it as a stencil cutter.
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| Frederic Testard |
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Country: France
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NVNGRR
Engine Wiper
 
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Posted - 03/30/2011 : 11:40:38 AM
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I'll find out by the end of the week. My daughter is coming to visit and bringing her crikut. She has the font cartridges.
Ron, thanks for posting this, I would have never thought to try it.
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Kevin Miller Winlock, WA |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 03/30/2011 : 12:55:39 PM
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Thanks Geezer, I'm happy with the second sign.
Andy, I'm sure the first attempt would have worked if I used an airbrush. The trick is getting the "mask" to stick tight to the siding.
Frederic, Keven, I bought the cutting machine for model railway use. I haven't tried it yet, but the goal is to see if I can cut .010 plastic with it. another thing I like about it is you can use any font that is on your computer, not just the ones that come on the cartridge. Would be interesting to see if you can import your own "artwork" in the Cricut cutter.
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Ron Newby General Manager Clearwater Valley Railway Co. http://www.cvry.ca |
Edited by - elwoodblues on 03/30/2011 1:03:16 PM |
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Tommatthews
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Premium Member

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Posted - 03/30/2011 : 1:16:29 PM
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Ron and Kevin,
Which model of Cricut are you using? I see several listed on their site.
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elwoodblues
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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NVNGRR
Engine Wiper
 
Premium Member

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Posted - 03/30/2011 : 2:05:16 PM
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I'm not sure which model my daughter has. From reading Ron's description I would probably buy the Silhouette.
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Kevin Miller Winlock, WA |
Edited by - NVNGRR on 03/30/2011 3:08:14 PM |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
    

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Posted - 03/30/2011 : 4:28:32 PM
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Here are a few examples of cutting work using Cricut and Robo Craft (it's not my work, I don't have any such machine). It's on the finescale RR forum.
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1380.0
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| Frederic Testard |
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Mike Hamer
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MinerFortyNiner
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 04/03/2011 : 01:02:07 AM
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Ron, I find your use of painters tape encouraging...I experimented with vinyl stencils for car lettering some time ago with similar disastrous results! I encountered the same problem, the vinyl just wouldn't confirm tightly enough to the model. I don't know if I can get my lettering cut in tape instead, I will have to check out that possibility...
Regarding recommendations to airbrush, I thought the same thing...yet an airbrush requires a tighter mask than drybrushing, and you can often get overspray that is visible...not good for turn of the century trains! I found I got better results drybrushing, although with the unpredictable vinyl masks they were still far from what I would call ideal. Ron's results on the sign are very good, and definitely worth the hard-earned recovery. If we all could cash in on the many do-overs we need to do, we could all retire! Thanks for sharing your progress, missteps and all, for our benefit!
I think Frederic's recommendation to lightly sand/fade the sign is a great idea, perhaps you already planned to do that...or is this a new enough structure that it would avoid our usual weathering dementia?
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Edited by - MinerFortyNiner on 04/03/2011 01:06:37 AM |
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NVNGRR
Engine Wiper
 
Premium Member

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Posted - 04/03/2011 : 3:00:55 PM
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My daughter tells me she could not get the Cricut machine to cut painters tape neatly. It would mess up the corners of the letters. Next time I get to her house I'll try it myself. Not that I don't trust her abilities but sometimes a project needs dads special touch.
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Kevin Miller Winlock, WA |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 04/04/2011 : 10:24:37 AM
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Mike, You know if Fred doesn't like the or isn't proud of the structure, he will just have to suffer 
Verne, It's been an interesting learning experience. After the vinyl tape disaster I figured there had to be something out there that would work. I had a 3" wide roll of green painters tape and figured that width would give me more than enough play to cut the letters on the tape. I'm fairly new at using the machine so I'm still learning how to use it. Next step would be to see if I can cut the letters small enough to letter and number a car.
Kevin, I'm not sure how small your daughter is trying to cut the letters or how sharp the blade is. So far I have only tried fair sized letters and have a new knife in the machine.
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Ron Newby General Manager Clearwater Valley Railway Co. http://www.cvry.ca |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 04/28/2011 : 08:44:40 AM
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well the shingles arrived a few days ago and I finally got a chance to finish the roof on the church.

As you can clearly see in the picture the shade of the new shingles don't match the old ones. I'm sure that once the staining and weathering is done you won't be able to tell the difference.
First a base photo so show what I'm trying to accomplish.

Thought I would save some time as on the instructions that came with the cedar material it says to see the November 1969 issue on how to finish and stain the shingles. Seeing as I have an extensive MR collection I just so happen to have that issue so I pulled it out see what was recommended and it boiled down to the following sentence. If you want to have the aged shingle look use a grey wash. That's it, that's all it has to say about weathering the shingles, to say I was a little disappointed would be an understatement.

The first attempt was to use Vellejo's grey green. The thought was that a green tint would suggest moss. AS it turn's out its is much to dark and no where near the grey I'm trying to copy.
The second attempt was to follow Geezer's suggestion so I used Bragdon's Grimy Grey. While it is a lot closer to the look a lot of it will be required to cover the entire roof. I haven't hit it with the mineral spirits yet so more experimentation will have to be done.
The third attempt uses a suggestion from my buddy Chris (LVN). Using water based stains, I mixed up a grey using whitewash and black. This gave me a good base color to work with and more experimentation will be required to get the color variations that you see in base picture.
Exciting times are ahead in the word of instantly weathering real cedar shingles.

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Ron Newby General Manager Clearwater Valley Railway Co. http://www.cvry.ca |
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LVN
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 04/28/2011 : 09:54:23 AM
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Dry brush some white paint over top of the grey stain Ron. Looking at the original you are trying to create you can see lots of white streaks.
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Chris Lyon http://www.lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 11/15/2011 : 09:39:28 AM
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After being away from working on the railroad for the past 6 months due to working 60-80 hour weeks I finally can get back at it as the project at work has finally come to an end and for the next little while I should be working a regular 40 hr week (at least that's the plan).
In order to get back in the swing of things, I decided to build something simple so I build a small flag stop station that was a freebee at the Model Rail Expo. While I could not attend my buddy Chris Lyon (LVN) picked one up for me.
It was a simple kit that only took a couple of hours to put together. Seeing as my layout is shallow and you could see in the station I added some 2" x 4" studs on the back wall.



I even added a bench for the passengers so they could sit down while waiting for the train.
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Ron Newby General Manager Clearwater Valley Railway Co. http://www.cvry.ca |
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visman48
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Posted - 11/15/2011 : 09:54:05 AM
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Ron I like your shingle tests, there is a building nearby that has shingles like your picture, they are darkest deeper in, and lightest on the exposed edges, the dry brushing will help with that. Thanks for the color tests, I will be saving that bit of information. You might have to have several rounds of color, staining, drybrushing to get the look you want.
Les
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