Railroad Line Forums - A scratchbuilt Shelby's in O scale
Railroad Line Forums
Save Password

Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 2 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 249 ]  [ Total: 251 ]  [ Newest Member: wandering rr ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Startin' from Scratch
 A scratchbuilt Shelby's in O scale
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Latest scratch built 8 axle tank car Topic Next Topic: boats and ships terminology
Page: of 21


Posted - 01/08/2008 :  10:00:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just beautiful Karl! I'm glad I got to see it at the show. But tell me are we going to see the final product at CSS'08?

--Rich B.

Country: USA | Posts: 2748 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 01/08/2008 :  5:09:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Karl, your imagineering is really coming thru in your diorama, I really like the direction your going and the results speak for themselves. My version is still as it was the last time I posted, my direction and time has been focused elsewhere. I will really like to see the results at Css 08. Pat

Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

Jerry M

Posted - 01/08/2008 :  11:11:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Outstanding all the way around!

Country: USA | Posts: 4055 Go to Top of Page

Jim T

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  12:03:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice work, Karl. Looks a lot like the boat yards I've been around.


Country: USA | Posts: 1188 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 01/09/2008 :  08:46:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Outstanding and you have really bought the building to life.

Love the second boat and the hatch that can be opened is a nice touch.
What method did you use for the paint on this boat for it really nails what I think older deteriorating paint should look like.

I also like the single nail hole/heads in the B&T Shop as I generally try for 2 on each board but one looks better and would be easier especially in HO.

Looking forward to seeing the 2 structures together.

John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13324 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 01/11/2008 :  11:09:26 AM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks for all the positive feedback and comments everyone , very encouraging for me.

To answer the questions :

Steve O'D. The second boat was made initially the same as the first one, the basic process is detailed on page 4-5 of this thread I'll add some pics of the extra steps I took on the second boat later today.

Frederic. The white lettered sign gave me sleepless nights looking for a solution. Ultimately I used my HP printer/scanner/fax to scan the finished model wall into the computer, and also Bretts HO scale sign. Using photoshop I resized the sign and layered it on to the wall image, I then colour corrected it as best I could to match the real wall when printed. I printed this out and cut the sign into the four main componants(3 lists & the name) I then trimmed these as close as possible to the lettering and glued the four parts onto the wall with a glue stick. I then tried to blend the sign into the wall with chalks. It could be better but looks OK from 18" or more away. I took snap shots along the way, if you want a more detailed post let me know.

Karl S. the diorama base (so far) is 28"x28"

Rich B/Pat. If I manage to get there it will be with me.

John. The 'planking' was initially sprayed with grey primer and then I used the terry cloth method as before to add the white, I then mixed up the individual boards and glued them on. I also like the single nails on clapboard, the second nail would be under the overlap I believe, it certainly speeds things up .

Thanks again.


Edited by - UKGuy on 01/11/2008 11:13:41 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 6277 Go to Top of Page

Danny Head

Posted - 01/11/2008 :  11:58:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Karl, I just found the thread on your updates of your project. This is outstanding! Danny - Guntersville, Al.

Country: USA | Posts: 1889 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 01/11/2008 :  2:28:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit KVRailfan's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Another fantastic job Karl, looking forward to the next update!


Country: Canada | Posts: 790 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard

Premium Member

Posted - 01/11/2008 :  4:55:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you for all the precisions Karl.
Yes, I would be pleased to see some shots of the sign being made if you don't mind.

Country: France | Posts: 17652 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 01/12/2008 :  09:48:05 AM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Making white lettering without white ink...

The first thing I did was to get the basic wall colouring completed and any abrasive actions completed, next I scanned the wall into my computer.

The next step was to scan in the white decals I had (you could make your own easily in any text program). When scanning the white decal it is best to place something black behind it in the scanner so that you get a good contrast. Import the scan to your graphics package, Adobe will let you select a single colour so select the white from the image and copy and paste it onto the wall.

This will result in a two layered image, I then selected the area behind the lettering and adjusted the contrast, brightness and colour balances to match the real wall as closely as possible.

Once I was happy with the adjustments (I wish I had done more with this first attempt) I merged the two layers of the image together, selected only the area directly around the sign and copy and pasted this to a new page. The reason for doing this is ink preservation, no need to print out the whole wall when you only need a small section of it.

I printed out the sign, cut out the lettering as close as I could with some very sharp scissors and attached it to the wall with a glue stick, (I should have sanded the back, but didnt). Once this was dry I tried to blend it in with chalks.

At this supper close distance the camera exagerates the slight texture and colour variance, it really does need a little more work.

A little further away (12") and its almost unnoticeable.

The software does the work for you its really very simple and relatively quick.

Hope this helps.


Country: USA | Posts: 6277 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 01/12/2008 :  11:28:46 AM  Show Profile  Visit simon1966's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Karl,

A quick note to say that the O scale adventure seems to be paying dividends! The boats in particular caught my eye, some really great modelling. Thanks for the tips on the sinage as well.

Country: USA | Posts: 2861 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 07/10/2008 :  11:17:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks Simon, here is some detail on the boat.

Originally posted by UKGuy

Steve O'D. The second boat was made initially the same as the first one, the basic process is detailed on page 4-5 of this thread I'll add some pics of the extra steps I took on the second boat later today.

Well hopefully this will be 'better late than never'...

Building The Second Boat

I started by gluing four pieces of 1/2" foam together(I used caulk for this), once this was dry I drew the outline of the deck and then using a long retractable knife cut it out.

I then drew the profile of the hull onto the side and cut this out also.

The remaining shaping and smoothing of the hull was done with 100grit sandpaper. I used spray primer to colour a sheet of card grey and then used the 'old sock method' to add the white

(Frederic) This sheet was then cut into tapered strips 3/16" down to 1/8". The strips were then mixed up and glued (elmers yellow glue)to the hull with the wider end up front tapering to the rear, I used card for this as it bends and even stretches easily to the shape required.

The next day when the glue was fully cured I drew a center line down the deck and drew where the hatch would go. I carved out the foam all the way to the cardboard on the sides and bottom. I undercut the foam at the sides so that it would be impossible to see when the deck was on. I also cut forwards and backwards an extra 1/2", this way it would(hopefully) appear that the boat was completely hollow as I would over hang the decking this extra 1/2".

I then used an old paint brush and painted some acetone on to the foam inside when it became dificult to use a knife for removal. This completely ate the foam away to the card planking, the hull stayed rigid despite having no support inside the hold, so I must have used enough glue . I then painted the interior of the hold black.

The decking was made from 1/64" plywood cut into 1/8" strips, prestained with a&i and then glued onto the foam with more yellow glue.

Once the glue was dry the deck was trimmed to shape and carefully sanded flush to the hull.

The lower deck floor was made from a piece of 1/64" ply cut to the shape of the hold. I then scribed in 1/8" spaced planking with the back of an exacto. As the floor of the hold was bigger than the hatch I cut the floor in half to install it. I also painted one end in a faded black, this would again(hopefully) make it appear that the floor just disappeared further into the boat.

I hate that the grain is visible in this shot which is why I dont usually use scribed sheets, but on the plus side the two halves matched up again seamlessly and the faded black paint did the trick(IMO). Besides I was going to add details and chalk to the lower deck so I hoped that would cover the grain.

The boats console was made from two pieces of balsa cut to size and shape and then painted black. The two dials are cut out from sheet styrene with a paper hole punch, the levers are pins with the heads painted and the coloured buttons/lights are just paint applied with the tip of a needle.

The chairs are from BIS mounted on pieces of toothpicks to look like swivel chairs. The cab did recieve lighting, a map on the wall and glazing after this shot but I cant find a pic right now, I think I previously posted it anyway.

Next I glued the cab onto the deck after feeding the wiring though for the lighting, I also cut two strips of basswood, painted them red with my sock, then bent them roughly to shape and glued them around the deck. The door is a scribed piece of 1/64" ply scribed on both sides as it is open, then framing was added to the doors exterior, the porthole window was made with the paper hole punch.

I made the hatch surround from stripwood I had made and painted previously, I kind of designed/built the hatch based on Dave Revelia's boat hatch in his boat repair diorama.

I cut another piece of 1/64" ply to shape then scribed and stained it and added it to the back of the hold to represent an engine sevice hatch? I added some netting (wedding tulle) and made the barrel rack with the chains to stop the barrels rolling around in rough seas.

The winch stand is made from pieces of sheet styrene cut to size/shape with some NBWs added for detail, the drum is two cogs from 'somewhere' glued to either side of a cut down pen, I still need to add either chain or 'rope' around the winch, highly unprototypical but it works for me.
The rings around the anchor chain holes are those little brass rivets you find holding various things together, I stole my two from an old Atlas snapswitch I had in a drawer. I punched a hole in the hull and inserted the blackened rivets then inserted a short length of chain into the holes and secured with a drop of thin CA. I also think I just figured out a solution for making the anchors themselves so they should follow shortly, maybe.

The two exhauts on the deck are made from a piece of sprue heated up with a lighter and stretched to give a taper, then they were cut to size and filed to the final shape, I then reheated the bottom of the exhausts with my lighter and pressed them onto my glass work top to give the bulbous shape at the base, a small straw/plastic coffee stirrer was cut to size and used as the hollow horizontal outlet of the exhaust. The rope tie thingies? are made from some parts I found in the boat building section of hobbytown, cut down and then glued to strips of styrene and painted black.

To make the operating hinges I cut four thin slivers from a plastic shopping bag and glued them(supeglue) where the hinges would go. These worked flawlessly and after much playing.. ..ummm, I mean testing of the opening and closing doors I glued the fake hinges on top. These are made from strip styrene with NBWs added for interest and painted 'rusty'. This seems to be a great and very simple way to make operating doors, you could cover the plastic with grandt hinges dependant on the application.

Hope it gives someone else some ideas to use.


Edited by - UKGuy on 07/12/2008 11:16:45 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6277 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard

Premium Member

Posted - 07/10/2008 :  11:48:24 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very interesting photos, Karl.
Did you taper the strips of wood to do the sides of the hull?

Country: France | Posts: 17652 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 07/10/2008 :  4:59:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very well done, and lots of ideas to consider for applications to other structures. Thanks for posting the pic's and detailed write-up associated to the creation of this beauty.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7237 Go to Top of Page

Jerry M

Posted - 07/10/2008 :  6:59:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's some impressive work on that little boat Karl very nice indeed......

Country: USA | Posts: 4055 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 21 Previous Topic: Latest scratch built 8 axle tank car Topic Next Topic: boats and ships terminology  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Previous Page | Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 1.06 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000