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 Peeling paint
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Bbags
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Posted - 01/06/2006 :  12:02:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi all.
I am in the process of building Gritty's by Bar Mills and want to have the peeling paint effect on the main building.
Here is a picture of a piece of Northeastern clapboard siding which was primed with CN Gray #17 and allowed to fully cure.
I then tried 3 different methods and would like comments as to which looks the most realistic.
The white paint is Americana White Wash.



The panel is divided into 3 sections by the red lines.

The one on the left was done using the terry cloth method to dab on the paint randomly.
The one in the middle was done using rubber cement applied with a Scotch Brite pad and removed with tape.
The one on the right was done by dabbing with a stiff brush and then scraping with a razor blade to remove some of the paint.

What may be hard to see in the picture is that the paint done with the rubber cement has a 3-D look as some of the paint is pulled away from the surface.

Comments please.

John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 12561

lab-dad
Fireman



Posted - 01/06/2006 :  12:25:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
John,
Do one more method and then "see" what you think.
Paint the siding with the grey (or whatever you choose), let dry.
brush on mineral spirits, when the shine just disappears paint with the white craft paint.
Chuck says several light coats, I used just one or two.
wait about half to one hour and using a piece of Scotch tape, stick and peel.
This is Chuck Doans method, and I relly like it!
-Marty


Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.

Edited by - lab-dad on 01/06/2006 12:27:17 PM

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TomPM
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 01/06/2006 :  12:25:59 PM  Show Profile  Visit TomPM's Homepage  Send TomPM a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
John

I use the rubber cement method. I like it because of the 3D effect you mentioned. Whenever I see peeling paint as opposed to paint that is worn off, the peeling paint always has some paint that is “sticking out” or loosely attached to the structure.


Tom
Jack of All Trades Master of None
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
NARA Member #100

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Rick
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Posted - 01/06/2006 :  12:47:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John, I like the look of the middle one. Not only for the 3D effect but also because most of the paint has peeled off from the bottom edge of the clapboards. From my observations this is how paint peels on the prototype.

I have also tried Chuck's method described by Marty and liked the results I have gotten with that method too. I would definitely give it a try.


___________________________________
All the things that others want for me...
Can't buy what I want because it's free...

Country: USA | Posts: 12134 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  1:09:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by lab-dad

John,
Do one more method and then "see" what you think.
Paint the siding with the grey (or whatever you choose), let dry.
brush on mineral spirits, when the shine just disappears paint with the white craft paint.
Chuck says several light coats, I used just one or two.
wait about half to one hour and using a piece of Scotch tape, stick and peel.
This is Chuck Doans method, and I relly like it!
-Marty



Thanks Marty,
I will give that method a try also.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 12561 Go to Top of Page

Tabooma County Rwy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  1:13:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John, I like Door Number Two (middle panel) because it looks like large chunks of paint have fallen off (kinda like my gutters on my house, 1:1 scale ).

I also like the typewriter correction tape method, which gives similar results. Thing is, you're pretty much stuck with white, although you can change the "tone" with washes of A&I or shoe dye/alcohol (brown or black).


Al Carter
Kirkland, WA

Country: USA | Posts: 3815 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  1:20:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rick

John, I like the look of the middle one. Not only for the 3D effect but also because most of the paint has peeled off from the bottom edge of the clapboards. From my observations this is how paint peels on the prototype.

I have also tried Chuck's method described by Marty and liked the results I have gotten with that method too. I would definitely give it a try.



Rick,
I agree.
I used to go back and paint the top of each clapboard with a fine brush since the sun would not have caused this area to peel.
This step is eliminated with the rubber cement method.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 12561 Go to Top of Page

dave1905
Crew Chief



Posted - 01/06/2006 :  1:54:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I don't think any of them look like peeling paint as much as just bad paint jobs. It may be way the paint on the test samples doesn't go all the way to the red lines. There is too much "wood" showing. #2 would be the closest if based on the middle third of the center section. I think part of the problem is that the weathering appears put on vertically when on clapboard siding, the paint would be applied horizontally and the peeling texture would be horizontal, since each board would peel independent of the board above or below it. The #2 sample comes closest to that look.

Dave H.


Dave H.

Modeling 1900-1905. Wood Cars and iron men.

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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

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Posted - 01/06/2006 :  2:58:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I'll be the odd man out! I think #2, the one in the middle (and on the right)looks way overdone. I vote for the one on the left.


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wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 01/06/2006 :  3:13:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tyson,

I'm with you, buddy! I like #1. But, I am also interested to see what Monty has under the box in the aisle as experiment #4. Maybe #2 would look best if more of the color was still on the wall. Too much rubber cement?

Chuck


Wyoming Valley Railroad
http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/

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Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  3:46:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by wvrr

Tyson,

I'm with you, buddy! I like #1. But, I am also interested to see what Monty has under the box in the aisle as experiment #4. Maybe #2 would look best if more of the color was still on the wall. Too much rubber cement?

Chuck



Chuck,
I am a little confused about your statement.
The white paint is the top coat and I thought maybe that not enough paint has worn off.
The gray is the primer or previous color under it.

Dave,
The center and right examples were painted from left to right but the left was dabbed on with terry cloth at random angles.
I probably should have gone horizontally.

This is my first try with rubber cement(middle panel) so I am still learning.

This building was built in 1901 and I model 1986 so I was looking for a paint job that had sat without being painted for about 50 or so years.
The town the building sits in was a boom town when the railroad was being built but once completed in the 1920's most of the people moved on.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 12561 Go to Top of Page

wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 01/06/2006 :  4:29:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Sorry, John. I like the one with the terry cloth on the far left. I am interested in seeing how Chucks method will look, per Marty's suggestion.

Chuck


Wyoming Valley Railroad
http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/

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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  4:51:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like #2. I think if you had more paint on #1 it would look better and maybe the best.

George



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teejay
Fireman



Posted - 01/06/2006 :  4:59:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Uh, I'll take door #1 , Bob .




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Marken
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  5:07:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John, it really depends in how much you want the wall to be weathered.

The first wall looks the worst for wear.

The right one looks fresher because of the whiter the paint looks.

The middle, IMO, looks the best but I think you should leave more paint on the wall and make the peeling smaller. Those would be big chunks in HO.

I would also some how leave some of the peeling paint on the ground for effect. It wouldn't just disappear.

Good luck.



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Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2006 :  7:38:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks all for the input.

Door number 1 is the method that I have always used in the past and actually am most comfortable using.
I can easily add more color using that method.

Door number 2 was my first serious try using rubber cement.
I will keep working on this technique.

So Chuck there is no need to be sorry for liking door number 1, I just wanted to make sure you knew that the white was the top coat.
I thought I did not use enough rubber cement rather than too much.

Door number 3 is sort of a method mentioned by Jim Mooney with the scrapping being mentioned by Brett in Quincy's.

I will give door number 4 a try in the next day or so to see what results I can come up with.

Interesting how different people like different results so I guess that proves there is no wrong way to do something.

If others would like to add their comments or suggest another method I am all ears.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 12561 Go to Top of Page
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