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Make them as long as possible while avoiding a straight ahead binding. I have quartered or rather halved, the relationship between the cups on the driving mechanism. The sliding engine universal joints are adjusted to achieve maximum length as well. 8.5" radius is right on the edge. It will negotiate this better with the engine on the outside of the curve. I go very slow and hold my breath. My next layout will use a minimum o a 9" or 10" radius. Country: USA | Posts: 142 Lillyfork Engine Wiper Posted - 09/20/2005 :  09:02:10 AM     Chuck, If I were to do another one, I would probably try use a B'man HO three truck shay. MDC shays are tricky. there would be room for a sound unit in a B'man. It took a lot of adjusting to make the MDC shay run well. A new can motor, new gears etc. I am using only one of the truck gears to drive the engine mechanism. Adjusting the length of the drive shafts is important. Make them as long as possible while avoiding a straight ahead binding. I have quartered or rather halved, the relationship between the cups on the driving mechanism. The sliding engine universal joints are adjusted to achieve maximum length as well. 8.5" radius is right on the edge. It will negotiate this better with the engine on the outside of the curve. I go very slow and hold my breath. My next layout will use a minimum o a 9" or 10" radius. Country: USA | Posts: 142 Lillyfork Engine Wiper Posted - 09/20/2005 :  09:12:23 AM     Chuck, It just occurred to me that I raised the frame and removed the little nubs on the underside of the frame that limit the deflection angle of the trucks. That allows the trucks to turn far enough to negotiate the curves and also to let the drive shafts separate. So one has to be careful while handling the locomotive. Country: USA | Posts: 142 Lillyfork Engine Wiper Posted - 09/20/2005 :  09:12:23 AM     Chuck, It just occurred to me that I raised the frame and removed the little nubs on the underside of the frame that limit the deflection angle of the trucks. That allows the trucks to turn far enough to negotiate the curves and also to let the drive shafts separate. So one has to be careful while handling the locomotive. Country: USA | Posts: 142 Tombanjo Engine Wiper Posted - 09/20/2005 :  10:49:43 AM   Henry, Nice looking Shay, very nice modeling. I have a feeling the real crew on some of these approached things in much the same way you do quote: It will negotiate this better with the engine on the outside of the curve. I go very slow and hold my breath Dave Country: USA | Posts: 276 Tombanjo Engine Wiper Posted - 09/20/2005 :  10:49:43 AM   Henry, Nice looking Shay, very nice modeling. I have a feeling the real crew on some of these approached things in much the same way you do quote: It will negotiate this better with the engine on the outside of the curve. I go very slow and hold my breath Dave Country: USA | Posts: 276 Skeeterbait Section Hand Posted - 09/23/2005 :  08:26:34 AM   quote: Originally posted by Michael4472 Dear all, Also something truly horiffying, I to also have a small layout. it was built for the 7th Australian narrow gauge and features 9 inch radius curves and both the Bachmann On30 Shay and Climax go round the curves comfortably. the photos below should tell the story Regards Michael Holian Download Attachment: P1000662.JPG 144.22 KB Download Attachment: P1000663.JPG 150.97 KB Great looking mini layout. Can I ask for info on the windmill? Kit? Scratchbuilt? Got an extra one? Ken Olson (skeeterbait) Western Wisconsin Country: | Posts: 78 Skeeterbait Section Hand Posted - 09/23/2005 :  08:26:34 AM   quote: Originally posted by Michael4472 Dear all, Also something truly horiffying, I to also have a small layout. it was built for the 7th Australian narrow gauge and features 9 inch radius curves and both the Bachmann On30 Shay and Climax go round the curves comfortably. the photos below should tell the story Regards Michael Holian Download Attachment: P1000662.JPG 144.22 KB Download Attachment: P1000663.JPG 150.97 KB Great looking mini layout. Can I ask for info on the windmill? Kit? Scratchbuilt? Got an extra one? Ken Olson (skeeterbait) Western Wisconsin Country: | Posts: 78 Michael4472 New Hire Posted - 09/24/2005 :  06:32:07 AM   Dear Ken, i bought the wind mill at a trainshow for AU$20, unfortuanatly i don't have another one because it was on what we in Australia call a secondhand stand and from what the person there could tell me the person who built it died over 20 years ago. it is made of tin from what i can gather and is built very solidly. Regards Michael Holian Country: Australia | Posts: 38 Michael4472 New Hire Posted - 09/24/2005 :  06:32:07 AM   Dear Ken, i bought the wind mill at a trainshow for AU$20, unfortuanatly i don't have another one because it was on what we in Australia call a secondhand stand and from what the person there could tell me the person who built it died over 20 years ago. it is made of tin from what i can gather and is built very solidly. Regards Michael Holian Country: Australia | Posts: 38 racedirector Engine Wiper Posted - 10/24/2005 :  08:34:42 AM     Now that Shay I like very much. I have 2 of the little buggers that I am starting to build - one 2 truck, one 3 truck. First task is to get them running like clockwork. Second task will be to make them On30. Can you throw some light on what you did to your Shay, like cab etc. From the pics it looks like the boiler and engine are standard MDC.... Cheers Bruce Bruce Nordstrand, Riverstone, NSW, Oz-stralia Back in HO...and stayin there! Edited by - racedirector on 10/24/2005 09:31:21 AM Country: Australia | Posts: 330 racedirector Engine Wiper Posted - 10/24/2005 :  08:34:42 AM     Now that Shay I like very much. I have 2 of the little buggers that I am starting to build - one 2 truck, one 3 truck. First task is to get them running like clockwork. Second task will be to make them On30. Can you throw some light on what you did to your Shay, like cab etc. From the pics it looks like the boiler and engine are standard MDC.... Cheers Bruce Bruce Nordstrand, Riverstone, NSW, Oz-stralia Back in HO...and stayin there! Edited by - racedirector on 10/24/2005 09:31:21 AM Country: Australia | Posts: 330 GearDrivenSteam Section Hand Posted - 10/24/2005 :  09:07:09 AM   Converted HO Shays have always looked goofy to me, that one however, is an exception. You have done a very nice job there. Rob Obedience Is Victory. Victory Is Life. Today Is A Good Day To Die. Country: USA | Posts: 55 GearDrivenSteam Section Hand Posted - 10/24/2005 :  09:07:09 AM   Converted HO Shays have always looked goofy to me, that one however, is an exception. You have done a very nice job there. Rob Obedience Is Victory. Victory Is Life. Today Is A Good Day To Die. Country: USA | Posts: 55 Lillyfork Engine Wiper Posted - 10/24/2005 :  10:09:05 AM     Bruce, The boiler is the MDC boiler. However, it has been ground down to a new profile which extends the straight portion and creates a new profile. The smoke box was also shortened. I used the Gilpin 2' shay as a prototype to guide the changes. The engine was lengthened and the cab is built up from stryene. I made it six feet tall but should have gone to seven feet. I also used B'mann British carriage wheels to lmake 24" tires which I applied to the MDC wheel sets. The key to making the loco run smoothley is to debur all gears and drive train components. Then deburr them again. I used NSW gear sets and a can motor. Most problematic is the engine drive line. I used only one of the geared wheels to drive the engine. I cut the teeth off the others. I owe a lot to the hints in Jeff Johnson’s The MDC Shay Handbook I turned the brass domes and the boiler front. the stace is Precision Scale. 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