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 Building a Jordan Vehicle, Part 1, by Ken Marken
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Author Previous Topic: How to Build a Stone Wall by Karl Osolinski Topic Next Topic: LLaytons Color Stain Samples  

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/14/2005 :  5:22:41 PM  Show Profile
Moderator's Note: The following tutorial was originally posted by Ken Marken in the Craftsman's Corner Forum. I have moved a copy of it here for reference purposes. The original thread is still open in the Craftsman's Corner for discussion/comment.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5877

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Welcome to Jordan kit building 101. There are many different ways to build these kits, but this is what works for me.

I'm going to break this into separate parts or otherwise it will become way too long.

This should also work for plastic kits other than Jordan, especially the prep work.

Part 1 - Preparation
Part 2 - Paint
Part 3 - Assembly

This is our subject car:



Tools needed is minimal. Razor blade and some emery boards should suffice. (The one on the right has been modified to fit the window openings) A tweezers will also be needed.



This is the kit itself. Because the body is in ten parts, it's one of the harder kits to assemble. But with a little patience, it's one of the best looking when finished.



First thing you need to do is soak all the parts (except the "glass") in fairly warm water and a little dish soap just as they come out of the bag. These kits usually have quite a bit of mold release on them, especially the older kits. I like to let them soak for about 1/2 hour and then rinse them off with hot water.
I'll let them dry on a paper towel.

When dry, the critical prep work begins. This is probably the most time consuming but important step; Removing flash and test fitting parts. As you can see, there can be quite a bit of flash to remove, although this kit is fairly clean.



What you want to do first is remove all visible flash from the body parts. For this I use the emery board with very light pressure. You don't want to remove any details from the parts. I'll use the blade to remove the parts from the sprue. Don't cut tight to the part, leave some material on which can be sanded off.



I'll leave the small parts on the sprue for now so I don't lose them. Clean-up on those are usually minimal anyways.

Now, after all the flash is removed, test fit the body parts. You want a tight of a fit as possible. This is especially important on the roof where it meets the back half of the body by the v. I use the emery board again. Take your time and remove as little material as possible and check the fit often.

When you are satisfied with the fit, it's time to soak in warm water and dish soap again. This will start to remove any oils which came from your fingers. If you have a tweezers, soak it along with the parts. You'll use this to remove the parts from the bath. You don't want to touch the parts for now. Remove each part and rinse off and place on a paper towel to dry.

The last step will enhance paint adhesion and keep dust to a minimum. I use this to final prep the parts for paint.



I'll half fill a baby food jar with this and place the parts in and let them soak for about ten minutes. This will remove any traces of contaminants and prep the plastic for paint. Again, use the tweezers to remove the parts and place them on a clean surface to dry. Do not touch with your fingers and do not use paper towel to lay wet parts on. Let the parts air dry for at least 24hrs.

Thats it for part one.


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