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Author Previous Topic: On30 Turnout Kitbash Topic Next Topic: Making a LED Street Light
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MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/05/2003 :  11:07:13 AM  Show Profile
I braced most of the walls last night also. Like John, I decided to add a third brace to the walls that had only two. I figured I'd be better off to do that now, rather than risk being sorry later.


Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/05/2003 :  11:07:13 AM  Show Profile
I braced most of the walls last night also. Like John, I decided to add a third brace to the walls that had only two. I figured I'd be better off to do that now, rather than risk being sorry later.


Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 02/06/2003 :  08:00:39 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by MikeC

Hi, Guys,

Well, after looking carefully at the wall sections last night, I noticed that most of the nail holes I made with the pounce wheel last week had closed back up after the stain and paint dried. So I went back over them as best as I could with my pin/needle vise. It was very time consuming, but most of it came out all right. And so it's on to the next step....



Might it be better to wait till after the staining and painting are done to use the pounce wheel for the nail holes? Or, did you have the building assembled already as I'd imagine it would be a little harder to use the pounce wheel on assembled siding?

I found the small pounce wheel at a local art store and in experimenting on some scrap wood I looks like you only want to use it when your going cross grain as if you go with the grain of the wood you get definate slots not holes.

Also in looking at your sample it appears you get a random assortment of holes on the boards. That is, one board might get two holes and another only one. When you used your cut off pin did you insure that you got two nail holes per board?



Country: USA | Posts: 7846 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 02/06/2003 :  08:00:39 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by MikeC

Hi, Guys,

Well, after looking carefully at the wall sections last night, I noticed that most of the nail holes I made with the pounce wheel last week had closed back up after the stain and paint dried. So I went back over them as best as I could with my pin/needle vise. It was very time consuming, but most of it came out all right. And so it's on to the next step....



Might it be better to wait till after the staining and painting are done to use the pounce wheel for the nail holes? Or, did you have the building assembled already as I'd imagine it would be a little harder to use the pounce wheel on assembled siding?

I found the small pounce wheel at a local art store and in experimenting on some scrap wood I looks like you only want to use it when your going cross grain as if you go with the grain of the wood you get definate slots not holes.

Also in looking at your sample it appears you get a random assortment of holes on the boards. That is, one board might get two holes and another only one. When you used your cut off pin did you insure that you got two nail holes per board?



Country: USA | Posts: 7846 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/06/2003 :  08:29:49 AM  Show Profile
Hi Rusty
I do not mean to answer for Mike but this is what I did. This is very narrow siding and I did my nail holes using a pin vice so it was somewhat time consuming. Brett states in his instructions "You can add 2 holes per board but I just add them as evenly as possible not worrying about how many per board, but rather to keeping them spaced evenly". So this was the approach I used.
As to the paint filling the nail holes, the second time making the holes it is just a matter of breaking through the paint skin so this was not that time consuming



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 02/06/2003 :  09:12:00 AM  Show Profile
After looking at the sidings, I went back and cleaned the nail holes also. Be glad that ya'll went with a light color. With the dark color, they still do not stand out. I'm thinking about going back with a rust color applied to each nail hole. Any ideas?

Finished the windows. Brett should compete with Grant line. They are the best windows I've seen.

Have a good day,

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 02/06/2003 :  09:12:00 AM  Show Profile
After looking at the sidings, I went back and cleaned the nail holes also. Be glad that ya'll went with a light color. With the dark color, they still do not stand out. I'm thinking about going back with a rust color applied to each nail hole. Any ideas?

Finished the windows. Brett should compete with Grant line. They are the best windows I've seen.

Have a good day,

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/06/2003 :  09:27:16 AM  Show Profile
Hi all
I also completed the windows last evening. They are great. Just read the instructions carefully to make sure that you are using the correct frame with the correct glazing. I almost made a mistake. I have done these peel and stick windows before and they are the way to go for realism. You can position the lower sash in any position from closed to fully open.
Today I will do the Clam & Oyster sign and then the sign on the side of the building. Any thoughts on applying dry transfers other than what are in Brett's instructions.
Jim I received your package. Many thanks.
I used Mike's method of running faint rust streaks with chalk down the lines of nail holes using what I think he calls a stump which I bought at a local art store. I saw this method on Mike's Sasson Vinegar and liked the results.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Edited by - Bbags on 02/06/2003 09:32:33 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/06/2003 :  09:27:16 AM  Show Profile
Hi all
I also completed the windows last evening. They are great. Just read the instructions carefully to make sure that you are using the correct frame with the correct glazing. I almost made a mistake. I have done these peel and stick windows before and they are the way to go for realism. You can position the lower sash in any position from closed to fully open.
Today I will do the Clam & Oyster sign and then the sign on the side of the building. Any thoughts on applying dry transfers other than what are in Brett's instructions.
Jim I received your package. Many thanks.
I used Mike's method of running faint rust streaks with chalk down the lines of nail holes using what I think he calls a stump which I bought at a local art store. I saw this method on Mike's Sasson Vinegar and liked the results.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Edited by - Bbags on 02/06/2003 09:32:33 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/06/2003 :  10:25:08 AM  Show Profile
I'm also working on the windows. I drybrushed titanium white acrylic over the frames and cut-outs. I decided to drybrush instead of using the paint-on-the-rag method. I suspect the results would be about the same with either method.

I had intended to use MicroMark's Micro-Glaze for the windows. I've never used it before but thought I would try it this time. I followed the directions but the "film" across the window opening would last only 20-30 seconds and then disappear like a bubble. I tried several times to get it to work, but got the same results each time - even after restirring the solution and reapplying it to the mullions. So I gave up.

I'll use the window glass material Brett included with the kit. I know that works because I've used it before on several occasions.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/06/2003 :  10:25:08 AM  Show Profile
I'm also working on the windows. I drybrushed titanium white acrylic over the frames and cut-outs. I decided to drybrush instead of using the paint-on-the-rag method. I suspect the results would be about the same with either method.

I had intended to use MicroMark's Micro-Glaze for the windows. I've never used it before but thought I would try it this time. I followed the directions but the "film" across the window opening would last only 20-30 seconds and then disappear like a bubble. I tried several times to get it to work, but got the same results each time - even after restirring the solution and reapplying it to the mullions. So I gave up.

I'll use the window glass material Brett included with the kit. I know that works because I've used it before on several occasions.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 02/06/2003 :  12:33:50 PM  Show Profile
After agonizing for a couple of days, I went back and sanded the boxcar red off of the sidings. The results are close to a light walnut, which I like a lot better. I will have to retexture for wood grain, but the nailholes came back.

John, wife informed me last night that your package also came.

Thanks

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 02/06/2003 :  12:33:50 PM  Show Profile
After agonizing for a couple of days, I went back and sanded the boxcar red off of the sidings. The results are close to a light walnut, which I like a lot better. I will have to retexture for wood grain, but the nailholes came back.

John, wife informed me last night that your package also came.

Thanks

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  08:30:13 AM  Show Profile
Hi, Guys,

Well after agonizing over the stain color I decided to take a few days break and work on other parts of my layout. It helped me clear my head and I think the test stain I did this morning will be the "right" one. I'll know tonight when I get home and see the results.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  08:30:13 AM  Show Profile
Hi, Guys,

Well after agonizing over the stain color I decided to take a few days break and work on other parts of my layout. It helped me clear my head and I think the test stain I did this morning will be the "right" one. I'll know tonight when I get home and see the results.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page
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