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Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  11:28:00 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Hangem Harry

One thing I thought about doing for the water pour was for the time being paint the bottom and use gloss medium for the "wet" look. Then when I have all my wharfs and docks completed, pour the evirotex over the gloss medium. It would give a decent look of water temporarly and then the final look would have the depth needed for real looking water. Also since I am using foam for a base the gloss medium would be an extra barrier.

I do think it is interesting how we all have jumped on the supper diorama idea, thanks again to Nick for bringing a great idea to this forum.

Harry


Hi Harry
Thanks for your answer to my water problem. I just posted a long topic in the Construction forum where someone suggested a similar method for modeling water but I think your solution will work for me.
I also thank Nick for his great idea.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

paulbrockatsf
Fireman

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  4:10:26 PM  Show Profile

All of your ideas sound great! I wish we all lived close enough were we could see the finished layouts in person.

The water issue has been on my mind since I am working on the diorama base. I will probably use one of the methods you have mentioned.

I was building 3 four foot modules & then decided to add another module when I started the waterfront kits. So I am building a 48”x 30” module for my waterfront, which is basically a diorama. I am planning on building several smaller dioramas & place them on the module, as they are finished. I will incorporate these into my home layout when I am not using them at our modular setups.

SW Foss’ Landing kits, FSM Emporium Seafood & MC/BTS Donovan’s Transfer Co. will make up the main buildings. I may have to expand & add another 4’ module in to accommodate all my buildings & future releases.

Paul



Country: USA | Posts: 3581 Go to Top of Page

paulbrockatsf
Fireman

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  4:10:26 PM  Show Profile

All of your ideas sound great! I wish we all lived close enough were we could see the finished layouts in person.

The water issue has been on my mind since I am working on the diorama base. I will probably use one of the methods you have mentioned.

I was building 3 four foot modules & then decided to add another module when I started the waterfront kits. So I am building a 48”x 30” module for my waterfront, which is basically a diorama. I am planning on building several smaller dioramas & place them on the module, as they are finished. I will incorporate these into my home layout when I am not using them at our modular setups.

SW Foss’ Landing kits, FSM Emporium Seafood & MC/BTS Donovan’s Transfer Co. will make up the main buildings. I may have to expand & add another 4’ module in to accommodate all my buildings & future releases.

Paul



Country: USA | Posts: 3581 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  4:49:07 PM  Show Profile
Hi all
Well for what ever reason when I glued up and stained my deck for the Launch Company it warped.
I used the india ink and alcohol stain and did have it under compression but for the first in many uses of the alcohol I have warping.
I have the braces under the deck as shown in the instructions but these just warped with the deck itself. Also since the 2 parts of the deck were not glued together just to the braces under the deck the gap which was not seen has now increased in size to about 1/16 of an inch. It looks like the problem was with the braces in that expanded faster then the surface of the deck thus causing the warping and the separation.
Well since the braces are under the deck I can remove them and start over. I may use heavier lumber for the braces.
Well back to the construction table.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  4:49:07 PM  Show Profile
Hi all
Well for what ever reason when I glued up and stained my deck for the Launch Company it warped.
I used the india ink and alcohol stain and did have it under compression but for the first in many uses of the alcohol I have warping.
I have the braces under the deck as shown in the instructions but these just warped with the deck itself. Also since the 2 parts of the deck were not glued together just to the braces under the deck the gap which was not seen has now increased in size to about 1/16 of an inch. It looks like the problem was with the braces in that expanded faster then the surface of the deck thus causing the warping and the separation.
Well since the braces are under the deck I can remove them and start over. I may use heavier lumber for the braces.
Well back to the construction table.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  7:31:35 PM  Show Profile
John, your problem used to be a common complaint with the scribed siding in Campbell kits. The workaround is to stain both sides of the wood as well as the bracing. Then put it under weight and leave it for a day or two.

If you still have warpage, try ironing it. Yes, that is correct. Set your electric iron to a low temp with the steam off. Put the iron on the dock for a minute or two. It should dry the wood. I have done this several times with Campbell kits and even with two of the roofs on my SW Machine Shop. It works every time.



Edited by - MikeC on 05/01/2003 7:32:31 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  7:31:35 PM  Show Profile
John, your problem used to be a common complaint with the scribed siding in Campbell kits. The workaround is to stain both sides of the wood as well as the bracing. Then put it under weight and leave it for a day or two.

If you still have warpage, try ironing it. Yes, that is correct. Set your electric iron to a low temp with the steam off. Put the iron on the dock for a minute or two. It should dry the wood. I have done this several times with Campbell kits and even with two of the roofs on my SW Machine Shop. It works every time.



Edited by - MikeC on 05/01/2003 7:32:31 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  7:34:06 PM  Show Profile
That is terrible John!!

I am surprised since I also used alchol and mine did not warp at all. Only I did not apply the alchol stain to the underside, from what I read you did. I wonder if that is the culprit?!?

Harry



Edited by - Hangem Harry on 05/01/2003 7:47:23 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  7:34:06 PM  Show Profile
That is terrible John!!

I am surprised since I also used alchol and mine did not warp at all. Only I did not apply the alchol stain to the underside, from what I read you did. I wonder if that is the culprit?!?

Harry



Edited by - Hangem Harry on 05/01/2003 7:47:23 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  7:41:08 PM  Show Profile
Hi Mike
Thanks for the tip.
I have built both Norm's Landing and the Wharf by Campbell and for some reason I did not have this problem. I guess I was just lucky.
I did stain both sides plus the bracing and it still warped after about 24 hours between 2 sheets of glass with heavy books on top.
It actually curled after I removed it so obviously it had not completely dried.
Well I have stripped all the original bracing from underneath and will try again.
I am going to use 12x12 scale wood that was left over from building the wood retaining wall on the diorama base.
It is not that much thicker but since the deck is stained and is flat now that the bracing has been removed I think things will be fine.
I will remember the iron tip for that will probably come in handy in the future.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  7:41:08 PM  Show Profile
Hi Mike
Thanks for the tip.
I have built both Norm's Landing and the Wharf by Campbell and for some reason I did not have this problem. I guess I was just lucky.
I did stain both sides plus the bracing and it still warped after about 24 hours between 2 sheets of glass with heavy books on top.
It actually curled after I removed it so obviously it had not completely dried.
Well I have stripped all the original bracing from underneath and will try again.
I am going to use 12x12 scale wood that was left over from building the wood retaining wall on the diorama base.
It is not that much thicker but since the deck is stained and is flat now that the bracing has been removed I think things will be fine.
I will remember the iron tip for that will probably come in handy in the future.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  8:01:05 PM  Show Profile
Hi Harry
I am not sure what caused the wood to warp. I think I was in too much of a hurry to see how it looked on the diorama base and should have let it dry longer.
Things are OK now and we are back on schedule.
I also read the instructions for the Rowboat Shed for about the 5th time and can not wait to get started.
It will be great to do some board by board construction. It definitely has a more interesting look than scribed siding.
Also when I talked to Brett the other day and told him that my instructions were falling apart from constant reading he did say that our discussion on the forum about the virtues of the spiral bound book caused him to go back to it.
Something about a $200 kit deserves a good set of instructions. Thanks Mike



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  8:01:05 PM  Show Profile
Hi Harry
I am not sure what caused the wood to warp. I think I was in too much of a hurry to see how it looked on the diorama base and should have let it dry longer.
Things are OK now and we are back on schedule.
I also read the instructions for the Rowboat Shed for about the 5th time and can not wait to get started.
It will be great to do some board by board construction. It definitely has a more interesting look than scribed siding.
Also when I talked to Brett the other day and told him that my instructions were falling apart from constant reading he did say that our discussion on the forum about the virtues of the spiral bound book caused him to go back to it.
Something about a $200 kit deserves a good set of instructions. Thanks Mike



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  8:19:57 PM  Show Profile
Hi all
I forgot to mention with my problem that I had not applied the final trim to the dock so it was easy to remove and replace the braces.
I was about to apply the final trim when I noticed the problem. So I still have all the trim wood which was not ruined in my demolition.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  8:19:57 PM  Show Profile
Hi all
I forgot to mention with my problem that I had not applied the final trim to the dock so it was easy to remove and replace the braces.
I was about to apply the final trim when I noticed the problem. So I still have all the trim wood which was not ruined in my demolition.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page
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