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MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/29/2003 :  10:02:45 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Wallace

For those who are making pilings for the boat dock, consider that some use heavy mooring line wrapped around the pilings to prevent damage to the boat. This can be made from twine, and darkened to simulate being wet.



The kit includes a length of multi-strand twine for that very purpose. I dunked mine in my bottle of black alcohol for several seconds. It dried to a very nice charcoal gray shade. I'll wrap the fender pilings with individual strands after I have attached the pilings.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/29/2003 :  10:02:45 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Wallace

For those who are making pilings for the boat dock, consider that some use heavy mooring line wrapped around the pilings to prevent damage to the boat. This can be made from twine, and darkened to simulate being wet.



The kit includes a length of multi-strand twine for that very purpose. I dunked mine in my bottle of black alcohol for several seconds. It dried to a very nice charcoal gray shade. I'll wrap the fender pilings with individual strands after I have attached the pilings.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

paulbrockatsf
Fireman

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  12:14:05 AM  Show Profile

I am still working on my diorama base. I have been working on the yard the last couple of days, so I have not had much time to model.

John,
Thanks for your input & for answering my questions. I will try to look at the articles mentioned.

Paul



Country: USA | Posts: 3581 Go to Top of Page

paulbrockatsf
Fireman

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  12:14:05 AM  Show Profile

I am still working on my diorama base. I have been working on the yard the last couple of days, so I have not had much time to model.

John,
Thanks for your input & for answering my questions. I will try to look at the articles mentioned.

Paul



Country: USA | Posts: 3581 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  08:14:59 AM  Show Profile
Well after much thought and consideration on how to treat my Foss' diorama and how to pour the water without a noticable gap or seam from the diorama to the adjoining scenery I decided to make Foss' part of a larger "super" diorama (thank you Nick, one day here and you already gave me a great idea) which will be one module on my layout. The shoreline will be such that it extends the full length of the module but will not go onto the next. The module will be large enough for 3 or 4 kits. I started to construction of this module last evening, incorporating what I have already completed for Foss' into it.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  08:14:59 AM  Show Profile
Well after much thought and consideration on how to treat my Foss' diorama and how to pour the water without a noticable gap or seam from the diorama to the adjoining scenery I decided to make Foss' part of a larger "super" diorama (thank you Nick, one day here and you already gave me a great idea) which will be one module on my layout. The shoreline will be such that it extends the full length of the module but will not go onto the next. The module will be large enough for 3 or 4 kits. I started to construction of this module last evening, incorporating what I have already completed for Foss' into it.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 05/01/2003 :  09:35:19 AM  Show Profile
Seems as if the "Super Diorama" idea has caught on to a lot of us. I built my 16"x16" Foss' on a 16"x48" module to attach to the front of an island and will include several kits (yet to be released)in the Foss' series.

I visited with Brett earlier in the week and discussed the water pour. He suggested for me to wait until the complete 16"x48" diorama is finished before pouring the water. In the past people had try to pour at several different times and ended with "seams". They tried to cover the seam with boats etc and ended up with a parade in front of the structures. I'll take his suggestion and be "waterless" on the layout until the diorama is complete. (He did mention the possibility of pouring a first partial layer of water before pouring a final complete layer.)

Also Brett said the water pour changes the diorama dramatically and is very impressive.

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 05/01/2003 :  09:35:19 AM  Show Profile
Seems as if the "Super Diorama" idea has caught on to a lot of us. I built my 16"x16" Foss' on a 16"x48" module to attach to the front of an island and will include several kits (yet to be released)in the Foss' series.

I visited with Brett earlier in the week and discussed the water pour. He suggested for me to wait until the complete 16"x48" diorama is finished before pouring the water. In the past people had try to pour at several different times and ended with "seams". They tried to cover the seam with boats etc and ended up with a parade in front of the structures. I'll take his suggestion and be "waterless" on the layout until the diorama is complete. (He did mention the possibility of pouring a first partial layer of water before pouring a final complete layer.)

Also Brett said the water pour changes the diorama dramatically and is very impressive.

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  09:41:23 AM  Show Profile
Harry, that's a great idea. But don't you feel a bit guilty stealing it right out of my brain? hehehe

Actually, I was thinking the same thing last night after I read Nick's "super diorama" post and made my own reply. From the start, with Foss', I knew I had a space for it on the corner of an unfinished peninsula. But in the back of my mind, I was never completely sold on the idea. The location just isn't right. And there was the looming problem of how to incorporate the diorama into existing benchwork.

So I spent about an hour last evening "studying" my diorama base. (That means I did nothing with it except stare at it. My wife thought I had become comatose.) I finally gave in to the idea that it has to go somewhere else. And that's when I came up with a solution that's nearly identical to yours. Foss' will go on a 30" X 48" module of its own, very likely on the OVT&L side of the layout (on the other side of the basement). I should have room for the next kit in the Foss' series, plus I can incorporate my Campbell's Wharf and possibly a small river town with a single spur (or maybe mainline) running through the town. For me, this is a much better solution than trying to "force fit" the diorama into benchwork that was never designed for it.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  09:41:23 AM  Show Profile
Harry, that's a great idea. But don't you feel a bit guilty stealing it right out of my brain? hehehe

Actually, I was thinking the same thing last night after I read Nick's "super diorama" post and made my own reply. From the start, with Foss', I knew I had a space for it on the corner of an unfinished peninsula. But in the back of my mind, I was never completely sold on the idea. The location just isn't right. And there was the looming problem of how to incorporate the diorama into existing benchwork.

So I spent about an hour last evening "studying" my diorama base. (That means I did nothing with it except stare at it. My wife thought I had become comatose.) I finally gave in to the idea that it has to go somewhere else. And that's when I came up with a solution that's nearly identical to yours. Foss' will go on a 30" X 48" module of its own, very likely on the OVT&L side of the layout (on the other side of the basement). I should have room for the next kit in the Foss' series, plus I can incorporate my Campbell's Wharf and possibly a small river town with a single spur (or maybe mainline) running through the town. For me, this is a much better solution than trying to "force fit" the diorama into benchwork that was never designed for it.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  10:08:08 AM  Show Profile
Hi all
Well it looks to me that this super diorama idea has become the standard.
Not to be left out in the cold, I am planning to have a river which is 17' (real life) long and anywhere from 4" to 14" wide upon which I am planning to incorporate all the SW waterfront kits kits plus maybe a scratch built Shelby's as well as the BIS "The Waterfront" and also a scratch built "Tidewater Wharf" by BIS not to mention all the Campbells waterfront kits I have.
Since I am building my layout in modules I will have to wait until all is completed to pour the water. Should make for a rather large pour not to mention the expense for the materials.
However when completed it will the focal point of my layout.
Have a great day.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  10:08:08 AM  Show Profile
Hi all
Well it looks to me that this super diorama idea has become the standard.
Not to be left out in the cold, I am planning to have a river which is 17' (real life) long and anywhere from 4" to 14" wide upon which I am planning to incorporate all the SW waterfront kits kits plus maybe a scratch built Shelby's as well as the BIS "The Waterfront" and also a scratch built "Tidewater Wharf" by BIS not to mention all the Campbells waterfront kits I have.
Since I am building my layout in modules I will have to wait until all is completed to pour the water. Should make for a rather large pour not to mention the expense for the materials.
However when completed it will the focal point of my layout.
Have a great day.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  11:07:17 AM  Show Profile
One thing I thought about doing for the water pour was for the time being paint the bottom and use gloss medium for the "wet" look. Then when I have all my wharfs and docks completed, pour the evirotex over the gloss medium. It would give a decent look of water temporarly and then the final look would have the depth needed for real looking water. Also since I am using foam for a base the gloss medium would be an extra barrier.

I do think it is interesting how we all have jumped on the supper diorama idea, thanks again to Nick for bringing a great idea to this forum.

My personal module will be 7' long with the width being 24" for 1/2 and the second half tappering down to 12", It has to fit a location where clearance for walkway is an issue.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 05/01/2003 :  11:07:17 AM  Show Profile
One thing I thought about doing for the water pour was for the time being paint the bottom and use gloss medium for the "wet" look. Then when I have all my wharfs and docks completed, pour the evirotex over the gloss medium. It would give a decent look of water temporarly and then the final look would have the depth needed for real looking water. Also since I am using foam for a base the gloss medium would be an extra barrier.

I do think it is interesting how we all have jumped on the supper diorama idea, thanks again to Nick for bringing a great idea to this forum.

My personal module will be 7' long with the width being 24" for 1/2 and the second half tappering down to 12", It has to fit a location where clearance for walkway is an issue.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 05/01/2003 :  11:28:00 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Hangem Harry

One thing I thought about doing for the water pour was for the time being paint the bottom and use gloss medium for the "wet" look. Then when I have all my wharfs and docks completed, pour the evirotex over the gloss medium. It would give a decent look of water temporarly and then the final look would have the depth needed for real looking water. Also since I am using foam for a base the gloss medium would be an extra barrier.

I do think it is interesting how we all have jumped on the supper diorama idea, thanks again to Nick for bringing a great idea to this forum.

Harry


Hi Harry
Thanks for your answer to my water problem. I just posted a long topic in the Construction forum where someone suggested a similar method for modeling water but I think your solution will work for me.
I also thank Nick for his great idea.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page
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