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Page: of 116

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2003 :  5:42:29 PM  Show Profile
Hi
I have been trying all afternoon to enter Brett's web site and I keep getting an error message.
Anyone else able to get in.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 01/26/2003 :  5:50:39 PM  Show Profile
John,

Just tried to get into SW website. Am getting error message "timeout". This usual happens to me when there are too many people trying to access it or it is down. Will try later tonight.

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

ANo10
Fireman



Posted - 01/26/2003 :  5:50:39 PM  Show Profile
John,

Just tried to get into SW website. Am getting error message "timeout". This usual happens to me when there are too many people trying to access it or it is down. Will try later tonight.

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2773 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 01/26/2003 :  6:13:21 PM  Show Profile
Hi,

Well I didn't complete as much as I would have liked to this weekend. I started drilling holes for the toothpicks but that is taking longer than I expected. So hopefully I'll finish the drilling later tonight after the Superbowl and then I can start painting tomorrow.

I also could not enter Brett's site tonight.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 01/26/2003 :  6:13:21 PM  Show Profile
Hi,

Well I didn't complete as much as I would have liked to this weekend. I started drilling holes for the toothpicks but that is taking longer than I expected. So hopefully I'll finish the drilling later tonight after the Superbowl and then I can start painting tomorrow.

I also could not enter Brett's site tonight.

Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2003 :  8:44:10 PM  Show Profile
Harry, it is time consuming to drill the holes, but it's time well spent IMO. It makes painting the details so much easier when there's a toothpick or something else to hold on to while painting.

I didn't get anything done today myself. My daughter invited our daughters and boyfriends/fiance over to watch the game. I had to put my model stuff away for the afternoon.

Brett's site must have been down only temporarily. I got right on a few minutes ago. (It's half-time in the Super Bowl game.)

Brett has a big announcement posted - if you're into logging. Sierra West has bought out CHB and will begin to rerelease all of CHB's O scale sawmill castings. This is truly big news for logging modelers! Many years ago, Reg Schaeffer did a long series in the Gazette on assembling this highly detailed and complex set of castings. I have all of the articles listed/reviewed in the Reading and Reference Forum:

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1470




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2003 :  8:44:10 PM  Show Profile
Harry, it is time consuming to drill the holes, but it's time well spent IMO. It makes painting the details so much easier when there's a toothpick or something else to hold on to while painting.

I didn't get anything done today myself. My daughter invited our daughters and boyfriends/fiance over to watch the game. I had to put my model stuff away for the afternoon.

Brett's site must have been down only temporarily. I got right on a few minutes ago. (It's half-time in the Super Bowl game.)

Brett has a big announcement posted - if you're into logging. Sierra West has bought out CHB and will begin to rerelease all of CHB's O scale sawmill castings. This is truly big news for logging modelers! Many years ago, Reg Schaeffer did a long series in the Gazette on assembling this highly detailed and complex set of castings. I have all of the articles listed/reviewed in the Reading and Reference Forum:

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1470




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2003 :  9:38:36 PM  Show Profile
Thoughts on coloring the clapboard walls for the Clam & Oyster Company. I have been playing around using the scrap siding from the wall sections to practice my weathering skills. I have pretty much figured how I will age the walls but I am not sure of the coloring. I tried Brett's instructions of using Floquil Grime and then using Floquil Box Car Red but I am very unhappy with the final color.
I would like it be more red as in the color picture on his web site.
When any of you reach this step please offer your suggestions as to color.
Mike are you going to use craft paints. I used Apple Barrel Barn Red on another structure and when toned down I really liked the color. I may go with this verses the Box Car Red.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2003 :  9:38:36 PM  Show Profile
Thoughts on coloring the clapboard walls for the Clam & Oyster Company. I have been playing around using the scrap siding from the wall sections to practice my weathering skills. I have pretty much figured how I will age the walls but I am not sure of the coloring. I tried Brett's instructions of using Floquil Grime and then using Floquil Box Car Red but I am very unhappy with the final color.
I would like it be more red as in the color picture on his web site.
When any of you reach this step please offer your suggestions as to color.
Mike are you going to use craft paints. I used Apple Barrel Barn Red on another structure and when toned down I really liked the color. I may go with this verses the Box Car Red.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 01/28/2003 :  08:55:13 AM  Show Profile
Hi,

I agree it is worth the effort Mike, I just wish I hadn't broke two drill bits doing it. Well I finished all the holes last night, I also drilled holes in some of the other details I purchased from Model Tech Studios.

So tonight is the base painting and maybe some practive on the clapboard siding. I think I will try the Appe barrel painst since I already have some including the barn red, although I am thinking about a dark blue just so mine is a different color.

Thanks for the help,
Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

Posted - 01/28/2003 :  08:55:13 AM  Show Profile
Hi,

I agree it is worth the effort Mike, I just wish I hadn't broke two drill bits doing it. Well I finished all the holes last night, I also drilled holes in some of the other details I purchased from Model Tech Studios.

So tonight is the base painting and maybe some practive on the clapboard siding. I think I will try the Appe barrel painst since I already have some including the barn red, although I am thinking about a dark blue just so mine is a different color.

Thanks for the help,
Harry



Country: USA | Posts: 793 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/28/2003 :  11:07:42 AM  Show Profile
Hi, guys,

I got the last of the stripwood stained last night (still using the washer fluid/acrylic "stain" and doing it with a brush) and got started on the clapboard siding. It seems like I've got a lot of decisions to be making all of a sudden because it's been so long since I last worked with sheet siding. I did get the grain scribed in using the wire scratch pen I wrote about earlier. But then....

I couldn't decide whether to use my pounce tool or my needle/pin vise to make nail holes. In the interest of time, I went with the pounce tool. After one piece of siding, I decided I wasn't happy with the appearance. So tonight I'll do the rest with the needle/pin vise. It will take a lot longer, but I think I'll be happier with the results in the long run.

quote:
Originally posted by Bbags

When any of you reach this step please offer your suggestions as to color.
Mike are you going to use craft paints. I used Apple Barrel Barn Red on another structure and when toned down I really liked the color. I may go with this verses the Box Car Red.



John, the whole issue of color is one of those "decisions" I mentioned above. I'm still undecided about most of it. The only thing I am settled on is that I won't use the Grime/Box Car Red combo.

One option I have considered is a base stain of black alcohol followed by semi-drybrush washes of Polly Aged White or Light Gull Grey. (Hopefully, the result would look like fading white wash on clapboard - it was pretty common in the Ozarks at the turn of the century.)

Another option under consideration will be a base stain of Floquil CN Gray #17 mixed with Floquil Thinner. (Mixing two parts thinner with one part CN Gray makes a stain that is pretty close to Floquils' old Driftwood, which is no longer available. Sometimes I also add a drop or two of Grime.) Over that, I might drybrush Apple Barrel's Indian Red.

I need to experiment tonight with the siding scraps to see which I like better.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/28/2003 :  11:07:42 AM  Show Profile
Hi, guys,

I got the last of the stripwood stained last night (still using the washer fluid/acrylic "stain" and doing it with a brush) and got started on the clapboard siding. It seems like I've got a lot of decisions to be making all of a sudden because it's been so long since I last worked with sheet siding. I did get the grain scribed in using the wire scratch pen I wrote about earlier. But then....

I couldn't decide whether to use my pounce tool or my needle/pin vise to make nail holes. In the interest of time, I went with the pounce tool. After one piece of siding, I decided I wasn't happy with the appearance. So tonight I'll do the rest with the needle/pin vise. It will take a lot longer, but I think I'll be happier with the results in the long run.

quote:
Originally posted by Bbags

When any of you reach this step please offer your suggestions as to color.
Mike are you going to use craft paints. I used Apple Barrel Barn Red on another structure and when toned down I really liked the color. I may go with this verses the Box Car Red.



John, the whole issue of color is one of those "decisions" I mentioned above. I'm still undecided about most of it. The only thing I am settled on is that I won't use the Grime/Box Car Red combo.

One option I have considered is a base stain of black alcohol followed by semi-drybrush washes of Polly Aged White or Light Gull Grey. (Hopefully, the result would look like fading white wash on clapboard - it was pretty common in the Ozarks at the turn of the century.)

Another option under consideration will be a base stain of Floquil CN Gray #17 mixed with Floquil Thinner. (Mixing two parts thinner with one part CN Gray makes a stain that is pretty close to Floquils' old Driftwood, which is no longer available. Sometimes I also add a drop or two of Grime.) Over that, I might drybrush Apple Barrel's Indian Red.

I need to experiment tonight with the siding scraps to see which I like better.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/29/2003 :  10:09:45 AM  Show Profile
Well, the jury is in... at least for the first structure..

After much experimentation and lots of fumes (I seldom work with Floquil/DioSol and had forgotten about the odor!), this is the way I'm going with the colors.

First the clapboard got a dilute stain of CN Gray #17, with very dilute Grime and Weathered Black occasionally streaked and blended in. Tonight I will semi-drybrush Polly Dirty White over the stain. After it has dried but before it begins to cure, I'll go over it lightly with my scratch pen again and bring some of the stained "grain" back to the surface. (I tried all of this last night on some scrap and really liked the appearance/color.)

I did not pre-mix the stain with any measured amounts of pigment vs. thinner. I just dunked a 1/4" flat brush in the pigment, spread it out on a yogurt cup lid, then dunked my brush two or three times in the thinner and created a thin wash or stain of pigment in the cup lid. I did the same with the Grime and Weathered Black only using more thinner than with the CN Gray.

I did try some other things and color schemes, but this one looked the best to me. I want to depict a weathered, but not broken down river front structure.



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/29/2003 :  10:41:56 AM  Show Profile
Project for today
I have decided to go with the Ceramcoat Wedgwood Green stain (Paint mixed with washer fluid)on top of the black shoe dye and alcohol mix as my final color for the Clam & Oyster Company. I will also dry brush very lightly with antique white after I have let the walls dry. I tried using the sandpaper as Brett suggested to get more of a board on board look and like the results.
First things first as I now must add nail holes, a few splits and cracks, some warped boards and a couple of loose board ends. I also want the weathered but not run down look. Structures near the water are extremely weathered.
I would also like to get started on the window assembly.
Mike since you have the camera would it be possible to post a picture of a wall once you have completed the painting.
Thanks




John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13310 Go to Top of Page
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