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teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  3:57:31 PM  Show Profile
Rusty , when I bought the two sheets for 3 something each , I think they were clearing out old inventory as they do from time to time . They were in a hard to find display and fairly dusty so I kind of lucked out on that .
Ask for damaged stuff ...I got a GREAT deal on damaged ceiling tiles that I was breaking up for my lime quarry strata anyhow . The guy gave me a pile of them for 10 bucks ...probably 75% off . If they have scratched styrene they will give you a good deal .

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 10/15/2005 :  5:11:49 PM  Show Profile
Ralph,
I'll be following this thread because I enjoy working with styrene for certain applications. I like it for brick buildings like the welding shop that George and I did. (Brick sheeting over styrene shell.) Here is the link for that: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8143&whichpage=1

I also included the process for using the "etch and snap" method for making window and door openings in John's thread "Tools and Tips for Scratchbuilding". Here is that link:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8416&whichpage=1

Finally, I tried a "wood over styrene" technique on a scratchbuilt building wtih some success. Here is that link: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5629&whichpage=1

BTW, I've had success in making pieces identical by clamping them togehter, and then using a file to get the edges to match.





Edited by - Dutchman on 10/15/2005 5:12:56 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 31248 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 10/15/2005 :  5:11:49 PM  Show Profile
Ralph,
I'll be following this thread because I enjoy working with styrene for certain applications. I like it for brick buildings like the welding shop that George and I did. (Brick sheeting over styrene shell.) Here is the link for that: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8143&whichpage=1

I also included the process for using the "etch and snap" method for making window and door openings in John's thread "Tools and Tips for Scratchbuilding". Here is that link:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8416&whichpage=1

Finally, I tried a "wood over styrene" technique on a scratchbuilt building wtih some success. Here is that link: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5629&whichpage=1

BTW, I've had success in making pieces identical by clamping them togehter, and then using a file to get the edges to match.





Edited by - Dutchman on 10/15/2005 5:12:56 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 31248 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:04:55 PM  Show Profile
Thanks for joining in Bruce. I had already visited those threads. Good stuff. You are an excellent modeler.

Well, the moment of truth came. I decided to proceed with the hopper. I carefully laid out the hopper sides trying to be as accurate as possible. Well, I stink at layout. Each piece was slightly different after cutting as laid out below.



So I stacked the pieces and taped them together. Back into the Jarmac sander. Now that was much better. I think my lack of success in doing this last time was in not taking care to get the hopper bottoms exactly alike.

Before sanding.




After sanding



Last time I had a lot of frustration getting the hopper pieces aligned. This time I glued a piece of large styrene to the roof of the collector and had it extend to the bottom of the hopper. This would give me some support and a gluing surface.









This is a pic with all the hopper bottoms glued. I beveled the top part where it met the main box. It seemed to fit much better this time. I just need some filing and puttying when it drys. What do you guys think.







Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 8:43:09 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:04:55 PM  Show Profile
Thanks for joining in Bruce. I had already visited those threads. Good stuff. You are an excellent modeler.

Well, the moment of truth came. I decided to proceed with the hopper. I carefully laid out the hopper sides trying to be as accurate as possible. Well, I stink at layout. Each piece was slightly different after cutting as laid out below.



So I stacked the pieces and taped them together. Back into the Jarmac sander. Now that was much better. I think my lack of success in doing this last time was in not taking care to get the hopper bottoms exactly alike.

Before sanding.




After sanding



Last time I had a lot of frustration getting the hopper pieces aligned. This time I glued a piece of large styrene to the roof of the collector and had it extend to the bottom of the hopper. This would give me some support and a gluing surface.









This is a pic with all the hopper bottoms glued. I beveled the top part where it met the main box. It seemed to fit much better this time. I just need some filing and puttying when it drys. What do you guys think.







Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 8:43:09 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:35:08 PM  Show Profile
We're on the same page here Ralph ... I was suggesting two opposite sides first , then fitting the other two . What you have done works just as well and looks very good . Are you going to trim and/or sand the little bottom piece flush with the others when the glue and putty dry ?
Did you bevel the sides of the four angled pieces , or fit and glue them flush ?

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:35:08 PM  Show Profile
We're on the same page here Ralph ... I was suggesting two opposite sides first , then fitting the other two . What you have done works just as well and looks very good . Are you going to trim and/or sand the little bottom piece flush with the others when the glue and putty dry ?
Did you bevel the sides of the four angled pieces , or fit and glue them flush ?

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:41:11 PM  Show Profile
Terry,

I am not sure about sanding the bottom piece flush with the sides. I will square it up a little I think. I need more prototype info on what happens here.
This is kind of being imagineered as I go. I tried your opposite sides way, but had more luck attaching adjacent sides as I went.

I did bevel the edges where the hopper tops meet the hopper box enclosure.




Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 9:23:09 PM

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LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:41:11 PM  Show Profile
Terry,

I am not sure about sanding the bottom piece flush with the sides. I will square it up a little I think. I need more prototype info on what happens here.
This is kind of being imagineered as I go. I tried your opposite sides way, but had more luck attaching adjacent sides as I went.

I did bevel the edges where the hopper tops meet the hopper box enclosure.




Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 9:23:09 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:51:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage
Just to add a little here. I'm using the sheet of 2'x4' styrene I picked up at Home Depot to do a mockup of a possible new kit. I have the complete architectural drawings in 3/16" scale. DON'T ASK WHY 3/16". [grin] But at this point scale really doesn't matter as this is a rather complicated building consiting of about four units on three levels never mind about 6 levels of platforms. I have a 9" adhesive laminator that I used to put permanent adhesive on the back of the drawings. I had three prints made of each at Kinko's this morning. I then apply this to the styrene sheet and score the lines I need as edges. Contary to Terry's comments about clamping the sheet down to the table I found I could effectively snap the scores in my hands. Fact is I have some fairly complicated scores that go in and out. If I snap them in the proper order everything comes out clean.

I have all the flat, horizontal pieces done. Now, it's on to the verical walls, these will be a lot more complicated. I may have to go back and trim the wall thickness off the horizontals in order to glue it up properly.

I'm doing this to beter understand how the building will be made into a kit and a 3D model is worth a million words of expination.


Walt

Country: USA | Posts: 7816 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  8:51:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage
Just to add a little here. I'm using the sheet of 2'x4' styrene I picked up at Home Depot to do a mockup of a possible new kit. I have the complete architectural drawings in 3/16" scale. DON'T ASK WHY 3/16". [grin] But at this point scale really doesn't matter as this is a rather complicated building consiting of about four units on three levels never mind about 6 levels of platforms. I have a 9" adhesive laminator that I used to put permanent adhesive on the back of the drawings. I had three prints made of each at Kinko's this morning. I then apply this to the styrene sheet and score the lines I need as edges. Contary to Terry's comments about clamping the sheet down to the table I found I could effectively snap the scores in my hands. Fact is I have some fairly complicated scores that go in and out. If I snap them in the proper order everything comes out clean.

I have all the flat, horizontal pieces done. Now, it's on to the verical walls, these will be a lot more complicated. I may have to go back and trim the wall thickness off the horizontals in order to glue it up properly.

I'm doing this to beter understand how the building will be made into a kit and a 3D model is worth a million words of expination.


Walt

Country: USA | Posts: 7816 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  9:05:27 PM  Show Profile
Rusty , what I meant about using spring clamps to fasten the styrene down was only in the scoring process . I have found that the styrene can move around when scoring it on my plywood surface using a utility knife and steel rule . I snap them in my hands as you did .I don't cut through the styrene while it is on the bench .
Maybe post some pics of what you're doing with regards to the kit ...sounds interesting .

terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  9:05:27 PM  Show Profile
Rusty , what I meant about using spring clamps to fasten the styrene down was only in the scoring process . I have found that the styrene can move around when scoring it on my plywood surface using a utility knife and steel rule . I snap them in my hands as you did .I don't cut through the styrene while it is on the bench .
Maybe post some pics of what you're doing with regards to the kit ...sounds interesting .

terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 10/15/2005 :  9:13:54 PM  Show Profile
Ralph,
I think that is is coming along nicely.

Walt,
It making a mock-up out of styrene sounds like a great idea. I often make one up out of cardboard, but they are way too crude for your purposes.



Country: USA | Posts: 31248 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 10/15/2005 :  9:13:54 PM  Show Profile
Ralph,
I think that is is coming along nicely.

Walt,
It making a mock-up out of styrene sounds like a great idea. I often make one up out of cardboard, but they are way too crude for your purposes.



Country: USA | Posts: 31248 Go to Top of Page
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