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LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  10:34:54 AM  Show Profile
I would like to start a discussion on styrene scratchbuilding techniques. I was looking through my Evergreen styrene modeling book and all I could say is WOW! I had tried making a dust catcher before. It came out OK but a lot less than desired.

Seeing coaltrains recent coal mine scratchbuilt with styrene has only relit the fire. This time I am going to master the process.

My purpose is for us to share tricks, etc on how to achieve fine modeling in this medium. I like it for metal subjects not wood, but that is my opinion.

Country: | Posts: 5584

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  11:41:51 AM  Show Profile
Styrene is my medium of choice for my steel mill and surrounding buildings . You can buy styrene in sheets of course , varying thicknesses , but I've had good luck at Home Depot with the styrene 2x4 foot fluorescent light covers ....3 bucks or so .

The 'score and snap ' method of cutting styrene is the easiest way but it should be clamped to the table when doing so as it can move around quite a bit if not secured .

Inside corner bracing is a must on scratchbuilt structures to help prevent future warpage . I've found styrene tube glue unsatisfactory for putting walls together ...5 minute epoxy works well .

For a heavy rust look on styrene , I rely on the old paint-water-paint method :
- spray the styrene with Krylon Flat black

- immediately spray the flat black with water out of a mister or spray bottle

-spray that immediately with Krylon Rust .

- don't touch for a couple of hours and check what happens when the rust paint dries on the beads of water .....it looks pretty convincing .


There are all kinds of household items that can be used for different shapes as needed in an industrial model . Paper rolls come in various shapes and sizes and yield a little plastic spool when finished . Some of these are perfect for tanks or towers when combined or stacked .

Terry




Edited by - teejay on 10/15/2005 11:43:27 AM

Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  11:41:51 AM  Show Profile
Styrene is my medium of choice for my steel mill and surrounding buildings . You can buy styrene in sheets of course , varying thicknesses , but I've had good luck at Home Depot with the styrene 2x4 foot fluorescent light covers ....3 bucks or so .

The 'score and snap ' method of cutting styrene is the easiest way but it should be clamped to the table when doing so as it can move around quite a bit if not secured .

Inside corner bracing is a must on scratchbuilt structures to help prevent future warpage . I've found styrene tube glue unsatisfactory for putting walls together ...5 minute epoxy works well .

For a heavy rust look on styrene , I rely on the old paint-water-paint method :
- spray the styrene with Krylon Flat black

- immediately spray the flat black with water out of a mister or spray bottle

-spray that immediately with Krylon Rust .

- don't touch for a couple of hours and check what happens when the rust paint dries on the beads of water .....it looks pretty convincing .


There are all kinds of household items that can be used for different shapes as needed in an industrial model . Paper rolls come in various shapes and sizes and yield a little plastic spool when finished . Some of these are perfect for tanks or towers when combined or stacked .

Terry




Edited by - teejay on 10/15/2005 11:43:27 AM

Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  12:42:27 PM  Show Profile
Great start TeeJay. I have Mike Rabbitt's drawings on the way. After seeing Jeff Borne's blast furnace video's i am going to start a construction thread in the future on that subject.

I am attempting a dust catcher for an industry on my layout. Lets talk about my problems with the main structure. I just bought a good vernier caliper from Micromark. This is a good metal one, unlike the cheap plastic one I had. This was to improve my measuring skills.

My first problem was on the dust catcher's main body. I cut some rectangles from some .030 sheet. I was really carefull in measuring and cutting the scribe line to snap. When I was done I had 4 pieces that were off ever so slightly. Sorry I screwed up so I have no pic. When i took the pic the resolution was too big. But I hope you get the idea.

The problem is how to get 4 .030 rectangles exactly the same for gluing into a box. Thinking outside the box I went back to a Mic Greenberg article on precision sanding. I broke out my Jarmac sander. This is hooked up to a Dremel speed control box. I clamped a square to the table and I got this.The 4 rectangles are taped together with scotch tape.



After sanding all four sides I get this, which is much better. I hope you can see how smooth this is. If my photo's are not clear please let me know.



Now I think I have 4 even pieces on all sides. Lets see if I can move forward without messing it up. If I do you will see it firsthand.

The reason I bring this topic up, is that something so simple can be so difficult. Anybody got other ideas about making identical pieces? I have the Northwest shortline Duplicutter, but find that only works on .015 and .010 styrene.

Now to build and brace the box.



Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 3:46:00 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  12:42:27 PM  Show Profile
Great start TeeJay. I have Mike Rabbitt's drawings on the way. After seeing Jeff Borne's blast furnace video's i am going to start a construction thread in the future on that subject.

I am attempting a dust catcher for an industry on my layout. Lets talk about my problems with the main structure. I just bought a good vernier caliper from Micromark. This is a good metal one, unlike the cheap plastic one I had. This was to improve my measuring skills.

My first problem was on the dust catcher's main body. I cut some rectangles from some .030 sheet. I was really carefull in measuring and cutting the scribe line to snap. When I was done I had 4 pieces that were off ever so slightly. Sorry I screwed up so I have no pic. When i took the pic the resolution was too big. But I hope you get the idea.

The problem is how to get 4 .030 rectangles exactly the same for gluing into a box. Thinking outside the box I went back to a Mic Greenberg article on precision sanding. I broke out my Jarmac sander. This is hooked up to a Dremel speed control box. I clamped a square to the table and I got this.The 4 rectangles are taped together with scotch tape.



After sanding all four sides I get this, which is much better. I hope you can see how smooth this is. If my photo's are not clear please let me know.



Now I think I have 4 even pieces on all sides. Lets see if I can move forward without messing it up. If I do you will see it firsthand.

The reason I bring this topic up, is that something so simple can be so difficult. Anybody got other ideas about making identical pieces? I have the Northwest shortline Duplicutter, but find that only works on .015 and .010 styrene.

Now to build and brace the box.



Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 3:46:00 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  1:16:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by teejay

Styrene is my medium of choice for my steel mill and surrounding buildings . You can buy styrene in sheets of course , varying thicknesses , but I've had good luck at Home Depot with the styrene 2x4 foot fluorescent light covers ....3 bucks or so .

Terry



Terry, is this smooth styrene, clear or white? Also about how thick is it? I'm asking because I have a mockup to do of a new kit design which is quite complicated. I have made copies of the drawings in 3/16" scale and need 1/16" thick rigid material to laminate the drawings to to build the mockup. Rather than go down to the LHS and buy expensive styrene I thought I'd stop at Home Depot and pick up the "TJ Special".


Walt

Edited by - Rusty Stumps on 10/15/2005 1:17:21 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7811 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  1:16:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by teejay

Styrene is my medium of choice for my steel mill and surrounding buildings . You can buy styrene in sheets of course , varying thicknesses , but I've had good luck at Home Depot with the styrene 2x4 foot fluorescent light covers ....3 bucks or so .

Terry



Terry, is this smooth styrene, clear or white? Also about how thick is it? I'm asking because I have a mockup to do of a new kit design which is quite complicated. I have made copies of the drawings in 3/16" scale and need 1/16" thick rigid material to laminate the drawings to to build the mockup. Rather than go down to the LHS and buy expensive styrene I thought I'd stop at Home Depot and pick up the "TJ Special".


Walt

Edited by - Rusty Stumps on 10/15/2005 1:17:21 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7811 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  1:23:36 PM  Show Profile
You'll probably laugh , but I've had good success making identical small pieces by using the side of my grinding wheel after taping several pieces together . This must be done very carefully so as not to melt the styrene , and must be held very securely so it doesn't jump from the wheel . I didn't feel like buying new tools , so just improvised with what I had , namely the grinding wheel .
I use the Chopper for thinner pieces as you do .

Rusty , I use white or even opaque styrene ...I haven't tried clear ...no special reason . Obviously you go for the smooth surface styrene , not the pebbled type . Thickness is about .040 I would say . Try just one piece and see what you think or see if they have any scrap styrene in back .

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  1:23:36 PM  Show Profile
You'll probably laugh , but I've had good success making identical small pieces by using the side of my grinding wheel after taping several pieces together . This must be done very carefully so as not to melt the styrene , and must be held very securely so it doesn't jump from the wheel . I didn't feel like buying new tools , so just improvised with what I had , namely the grinding wheel .
I use the Chopper for thinner pieces as you do .

Rusty , I use white or even opaque styrene ...I haven't tried clear ...no special reason . Obviously you go for the smooth surface styrene , not the pebbled type . Thickness is about .040 I would say . Try just one piece and see what you think or see if they have any scrap styrene in back .

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  2:31:11 PM  Show Profile

Ok, Here I have the four sides glued together with some pieces from my scrap box.



My next step was to fit the roof. Rather than try to measure it, I chose to cut it as close as possible, then slice of the piece that is extending out. Some sanding of the edges and it seems ok.



My next thing is to build an acess platform around the box with railings.

Here is where I run into the real problem. How to make and measure the bottom. I don't want a cone, just pieces that form a small square at the bottom. I will attach a motor here. But I am lost as how to lay this out. Any ideas?



Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 2:32:32 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

LVRALPH
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  2:31:11 PM  Show Profile

Ok, Here I have the four sides glued together with some pieces from my scrap box.



My next step was to fit the roof. Rather than try to measure it, I chose to cut it as close as possible, then slice of the piece that is extending out. Some sanding of the edges and it seems ok.



My next thing is to build an acess platform around the box with railings.

Here is where I run into the real problem. How to make and measure the bottom. I don't want a cone, just pieces that form a small square at the bottom. I will attach a motor here. But I am lost as how to lay this out. Any ideas?



Edited by - LVRALPH on 10/15/2005 2:32:32 PM

Country: | Posts: 5584 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  2:58:52 PM  Show Profile
If I'm following you right , you want the idea of a cone , but rectangular shaped sides the taper down to a smaller square .
I would build it two sides at a time. You know the width at the top where the funnel joins the main body . Make two pieces , tapered to the length and lower shape you want . Glue them to what you have right now , on opposite sides and to the small square you have created for the lower portion of the 'funnel ' . Center it the way you want while the glue dries or hit it with ACC and quickener . Once this is satisfactory , you can build the other two sides using the partially built model as a pattern .

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  2:58:52 PM  Show Profile
If I'm following you right , you want the idea of a cone , but rectangular shaped sides the taper down to a smaller square .
I would build it two sides at a time. You know the width at the top where the funnel joins the main body . Make two pieces , tapered to the length and lower shape you want . Glue them to what you have right now , on opposite sides and to the small square you have created for the lower portion of the 'funnel ' . Center it the way you want while the glue dries or hit it with ACC and quickener . Once this is satisfactory , you can build the other two sides using the partially built model as a pattern .

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  3:15:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage
Well, Terry, your $3 panel North of the border turned into an $8 panel South of it! They didn't have any white smooth both sides so I had to settle for one with smooth on one side and lightly pebbled on the other but I guess it will do for a mockup!

For those that might go looking at Home Depot for this styrene sheet it's in the "drop ceiling" section, not the lighting section of the store.


Walt

Country: USA | Posts: 7811 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  3:15:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage
Well, Terry, your $3 panel North of the border turned into an $8 panel South of it! They didn't have any white smooth both sides so I had to settle for one with smooth on one side and lightly pebbled on the other but I guess it will do for a mockup!

For those that might go looking at Home Depot for this styrene sheet it's in the "drop ceiling" section, not the lighting section of the store.


Walt

Country: USA | Posts: 7811 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 10/15/2005 :  3:57:31 PM  Show Profile
Rusty , when I bought the two sheets for 3 something each , I think they were clearing out old inventory as they do from time to time . They were in a hard to find display and fairly dusty so I kind of lucked out on that .
Ask for damaged stuff ...I got a GREAT deal on damaged ceiling tiles that I was breaking up for my lime quarry strata anyhow . The guy gave me a pile of them for 10 bucks ...probably 75% off . If they have scratched styrene they will give you a good deal .

Terry



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page
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