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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Carrie Creek Posted - 04/05/2018 : 2:42:53 PM
so, a few years ago I had started building a model of a schooner I had designed based on the proportions of the Grand Banks fishing schooners of the 1920-30s. The Canadian schooner "Bluenose 2" is an example.

Pictures follow below.
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Carrie Creek Posted - 11/23/2020 : 7:50:24 PM
so, been fiddling around with the planking. Noticed that when test fitting the stem I did not have quite enough room inside the jig. Added 0.060" spacers all around. If I was going to make a new one it would be 1"of clearance.

Anyway here are a couple of pics of the planking.

the original planking, temp clamped together


how I figured it should be planked, cardboard glued together on the lap faces about 2" width.



Any thoughts?

Now to make the patterns even if I decide not to plank this way and just use the original inside ply and call it plywood planked.

Later...
Bill Gill Posted - 11/20/2020 : 9:42:07 PM
Phil, Your dory would be a waterline model when there are only one or two dorymen in it. Then it rides high like a cork and is very tippy. But when loaded with fish (a couple 300 lb halibut for example) it'd sit a lot lower in the water and be a lot more stable with it's broader beam.
Carrie Creek Posted - 11/20/2020 : 12:25:26 PM
Ah, Jerry, the model is a waterline model which means the bottom is flat, unless you want the rocker in the bottom my jig won’t work for you.

Bill, yea I know about Blackburn. He was one lucky guy, so many never were found or made it ashore someplace inhabited. Those Banks dorys are some very seaworthy boats!
Bill Gill Posted - 11/20/2020 : 09:05:38 AM
Phil, A brief bit background about Howard Blackburn, a doryman
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howard_Blackburn
TRAINS1941 Posted - 11/20/2020 : 08:52:18 AM
I have two of those kits. All I need now is your jig!!

Great work!!
Carrie Creek Posted - 11/20/2020 : 05:35:35 AM
Frank, I might be able to dance a jig #128563; . I am only building two so no mass production.
Frank Palmer Posted - 11/19/2020 : 10:46:23 AM
Phil, a jig, can you say mass production! Those Atlantic Modelers make nice accessories.
Carrie Creek Posted - 11/19/2020 : 05:29:23 AM
Yes, Bill, you plane the rabbet in the lap area on both the lower and upper strakes so that you end up with a half lap joint at the ends. This should give you a fair curve in the rabbet in the stem and flat against the bevel on the sides of the transom. Knowing when to start that rabbet is a matter of experience which I don’t have. I would think it is dependent on the thickness of the strakes.

That is a nice dory. I might need to put more rocker in my model after looking at this one.

Thanks for the idea, I will have to study this and see if it would work. Might need to cut some 1/32” basswood strakes and try. Although this is much thicker than the model material.

Later .....
Bill Gill Posted - 11/18/2020 : 5:00:22 PM
Phil, I think I understand what you said about the ends of the planks should rabbeted so they are in the same plane. They do lap along the rest of the sides, so could you sand the kit ends to feather the planking there so it would look correct at stem & stern?

Here's a shot of a dory for the L.A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport Museum. Unfortunately the lighting is indirect and the lapped joints barely show up if very closely examined, but you can sort of get a sense on the bow that the overlap begins just a little aft of the numeral 5
Carrie Creek Posted - 11/18/2020 : 2:28:13 PM
Here's the kit: bought 2





made a quick and dirty cardboard model



as this is a waterline model I am not having it in water but as deck load I want it to have same rocker in the bottom. I made a jig to help hold the parts while gluing up.



So, to my issues with the kit. The sides are 3 pieces laminated a-lined at the top. The end laps should be rabbeted so the plank ends are in the same plane. I can eliminate this by using just the one side piece and say it is plywood sided (not lapped straked). But really like the lapstrake look.




I am seriously thinking of cutting 4 new strakes out of the material supplied and planking up the prototypical way.

My other main issue is that the bottom is scribed with too many planks should only be 3. Luckily the other side is not so I scribed so I scribed the 3 planks.

Modified my jig for better control of the pieces. Added more moulds and means to hold the strakes tight against the moulds.



So, this is where I am at now, laying out patterns for the 4 strakes which will be cut from 0.010" styrene sheet.

Later as it happens....
Carrie Creek Posted - 11/17/2020 : 7:03:04 PM
Hi, sorry about the long break, got sidelined with home&work. No Covid.
Frank, thanks, I’m not getting the proportions right, and classic is what I am trying to do.
Greg, thanks for the kind words.

Been wanting something for tenders and found some “O” scale dory kits that would work. Measured out in the scale I am using here they are 13’4” along the bottom 17’8” LOA & 4’4” beam across the gun’ls.
There are a few inaccuracies that I need to address.
When I get home I will post some pictures and try to explain the problems.

Later
Ensign Posted - 04/13/2020 : 1:31:14 PM
Phil, your "Jenna's Rose" and Frank's "Dark Harbor" half hull models look beautiful!

Greg Shinnie
Frank Palmer Posted - 04/13/2020 : 10:57:52 AM

Phil, I'd go simple with clean lines.



Carrie Creek Posted - 04/12/2020 : 9:13:10 PM
Frank, I still have not been able to draw a cabin that I like for the “Jenna’s Rose” yet. Don’t want to mess up her beauty.
Carrie Creek Posted - 04/12/2020 : 7:58:54 PM
Sanded the frames and have glued in place.

cross piece just sitting there verifying the width. The shaded spots are for where the top of the false deck should be with the straight lower cross piece. shows the warp in it


in place and all glued, the cross pieces will be removed when dry


and a peek from underneath


will not be making another "sawn" frame, way too much work involved!

back to the deck beams

the journey continues...




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