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T O P I C    R E V I E W
David Clark Posted - 01/07/2017 : 10:35:22 PM
I have abandoned the thread "Dave's First On30 Layout" to start this one as I had figured out a name and want to keep a dialogue and record going of the build.
Having secured a place in the basement, I need to relocate some furniture and a (rarely used) treadmill belonging to my mother-in-law.
I started by building the benchwork out of 1/2" plywood, with 3/4" plywood gussets in the corners for stability. I pre-drilled holes in the girders for wiring. Each module is 78" x 30" as per the layout in my first post.
The modules are nice and light, I think the heaviest single piece will be the 1/4" piece of hardboard that will be the surface of the water. Legs were built up from 1x2 and 1x3 boards and long enough to put the module at about the 4' height. Since I'm building a shadow box, I think this will be a nice height for my 5"8" body.
I had some cool stuff arrive over Christmas - some manual turnout controls from Fast Tracks called Bullfrog turnout Control that require assembly. Check them out at www.fast-tracks.net. They weren't too expensive. I also picked up some "suitcase" connectors from Lordco, an automotive supply store, two packs of 15 came to $7.00 - definitely less expensive than a model railroad retailer (sorry).

15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
David Clark Posted - 06/05/2018 : 09:49:37 AM
Frank, so you dry brush the tan over the brown ties? When you say "rust" you mean paint?
Thanks for you input.
Frank Palmer Posted - 06/05/2018 : 08:49:22 AM
David, I also use the Camo Earth Brown. All I do is dry brush the ties with a tan and a light gray. Then on HO rail I brush on Rust in a hit and miss stroke so it's not perfect. And on Fn3 (code 250) rail I airbrush the rust on.
David Clark Posted - 06/04/2018 : 11:17:57 PM
I tried my hand at weathering some rail. I followed the video from Trackside scenery from Joey Ricard, but it didn't work out quite the same.
I painted the track with Rustoleum Camo Brown after I installed it. Joey's recipe called for a black undercoat.
Then I found a base colour for the ties. He recommending going lighter and letting the weathering darken it. Here is the first coat on the ties. I used Vallejo's Iraqi Sand and Dark Sand.
Here is the base-coated track - apologies for orientation.

This is after painting the ties a sand colour.

Here I've "painted" the rail sides with a mix of rusty brown and black chalks wetted with alcohol to make a slurry.

I went back over the ties to touch them up and then added dry black chalk to the ties. I hoped the ties would have come out grayer but I'm not sure how to get the chalk to stick better. The last picture shows the original colour on the left and the "coloured" version on the right.

Comments and suggestions welcome.
David Clark Posted - 06/04/2018 : 10:13:37 PM
There's not much I can do with only one working arm so I thought I would catalogue my paint. Between all the different brands there ate quite a few that are similar and now I know what I have.
If I were really keen I would do up a matrix wit all the colours down one side and across the top and show colours are arrived at when mixing them all. I would need to be a lot more bored than I was.

Not sure why the pic ended up upside down
Rick Posted - 06/03/2018 : 04:24:07 AM
Lights look real good and congrats on being able to operate both locos independently.
David Clark Posted - 06/03/2018 : 12:19:22 AM
No better pictures to show but I did have a bit of a milestone achieved. I have two locos, bought second hand, programmed to the same address and I couldn't change it. I finally managed to change the 4-4-0 to a different address but I still can't change anything on the Forney. Anyhow, the milestone is that I was able to operate both locos independently and had one drop off a cut of boxcars for the second one to pick up!!
David Clark Posted - 06/01/2018 : 4:51:27 PM
Thanks Frank, Mike, and Thom! It's always nice to have the experts give a thumb's up. I will try get better pictures. I am also starting to realize that my backdrop might need to be painted higher up and my "rock formation" behind the wharf should be higher as well. Something for a two-handed man to deal with.....
tct855 Posted - 06/01/2018 : 1:19:41 PM
Good job indeed, structure looks great properly lighted.
Thanx Thom...
Frank Palmer Posted - 06/01/2018 : 10:25:04 AM
It's looking just great.
Michael Hohn Posted - 06/01/2018 : 09:27:26 AM
Looks good with lights. And I like the trestle and bridge. Itís a coming together nicely.

David Clark Posted - 06/01/2018 : 09:06:35 AM
Thanks, Jerry. Working with one hand is S-L-O-W! I also installed some rare earth magnets under the rails after the turnouts for automatic uncoupling, but nothing much to see there.
Thanks for looking!
TRAINS1941 Posted - 06/01/2018 : 08:35:29 AM
Nice job Dave.

Must be fun working with one hand!
But still your moving good for you.
David Clark Posted - 06/01/2018 : 12:43:00 AM
When I posted my last update I realized that I promised a pic with the new lights. It's a terrible picture but.... we got lights!

David Clark Posted - 05/31/2018 : 11:33:19 PM
It's been a while but despite a torn rotator cuff and subsequent surgery I managed to get a little hobby time in. Working with one arm is tough. Anyhow, I installed the trestle bents for the water crossing to the dock and filled in the planking for the vehicle access to the mainland. My levelling was less than ideal so it all looks a little rough.
Of course any comments are welcome.

Philip Posted - 05/01/2018 : 2:48:34 PM

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