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T O P I C    R E V I E W
David Clark Posted - 01/07/2017 : 10:35:22 PM
I have abandoned the thread "Dave's First On30 Layout" to start this one as I had figured out a name and want to keep a dialogue and record going of the build.
Having secured a place in the basement, I need to relocate some furniture and a (rarely used) treadmill belonging to my mother-in-law.
I started by building the benchwork out of 1/2" plywood, with 3/4" plywood gussets in the corners for stability. I pre-drilled holes in the girders for wiring. Each module is 78" x 30" as per the layout in my first post.
The modules are nice and light, I think the heaviest single piece will be the 1/4" piece of hardboard that will be the surface of the water. Legs were built up from 1x2 and 1x3 boards and long enough to put the module at about the 4' height. Since I'm building a shadow box, I think this will be a nice height for my 5"8" body.
I had some cool stuff arrive over Christmas - some manual turnout controls from Fast Tracks called Bullfrog turnout Control that require assembly. Check them out at www.fast-tracks.net. They weren't too expensive. I also picked up some "suitcase" connectors from Lordco, an automotive supply store, two packs of 15 came to $7.00 - definitely less expensive than a model railroad retailer (sorry).

15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
David Clark Posted - 10/16/2018 : 12:56:12 PM
Mike, thanks.
Frank, now that I have the Palmer "stamp of approval" I will take it and run!
Frank Palmer Posted - 10/16/2018 : 09:03:14 AM
Wow, your sheet metal came out wat better than mine. Suggestions: quit while you're ahead.
Michael Hohn Posted - 10/15/2018 : 9:04:34 PM
Very much improved. You are getting a very realistic rust effect.


David Clark Posted - 10/15/2018 : 8:39:29 PM
So I added some Burnt Umber oils to the sheets and dragged my barely-moist brush through it to feather out the colour. The pictures are oriented differently (one parallel to the sun and the other perpendicular to it). I think they look better. I might add some lighter rust spots.
Again..comments or hints appreciated.

Michael Hohn Posted - 10/12/2018 : 7:04:23 PM
I believe there is a commercial source for cardboard “corrugated iron.”

Rick Posted - 10/12/2018 : 12:19:16 PM
Wait a minute.
The roof in that last picture is cardboard?
That's outstanding!
Thanks for sharing that.
David Clark Posted - 10/12/2018 : 12:02:55 PM
Bruce, that's a mighty fine roof!
brucet Posted - 10/11/2018 : 11:02:31 PM
Dave I have a sheet of gray foam. The type that brass models etc etc are packed in. I cut off a small 1/2"x1/2"x1/2" cube. Put some Raw Sienna acrylic on a plate. Gently dip the cube into the paint. Then dab the paint onto the iron with the cube. Especially along the edges. It will give you that spotty/rusty look. Don't overload the foam with paint. It's a case of less is more.

I'll see if I can post an image or two of cardboard iron!

David Clark Posted - 10/11/2018 : 10:25:02 PM
Frank, maybe it was your pictures I saw...
Bruce, thanks for that. My issue is not with the material but with the effects.I thought I might be able to just use powders but I'm not proficient enough. Paint is more my thing.
Thanks for looking in!
brucet Posted - 10/11/2018 : 6:50:42 PM
FWIW there is another way to make iron sheets. I use corrugated cardboard. If you go into a craft store and look at the corrugated board there you will find various sizes. I simply cut it into the right size, 6'x3' for me. Then simply peel away the top and bottom layers. I find the card board way easier to work with. You can easily crumple it. Tear away sections to represent rust holes. And it takes paint much better.

Just an idea!

Frank Palmer Posted - 10/11/2018 : 6:25:24 PM
David I just got done doing the same thing. Making tin panels from aluminum and painting them gray, hammered silver and rust.
David Clark Posted - 10/11/2018 : 1:05:41 PM
Ooh. Mike, those look good. Thanks
Michael Hohn Posted - 10/10/2018 : 7:52:35 PM

There’s a good example of rusty corrugated sheets on this page: http://railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44328&whichpage=29&SearchTerms=Challenge

David Clark Posted - 10/10/2018 : 4:12:13 PM
Jerry and Mike, thanks for looking in. I have since coloured the ties darker but there still isn't much in the way of definition of wood grain on them. I don't think I will worry about it however. I'm hoping that they will just be part of the bigger picture when it's all done. I tried adding some darker rust to the lower edges of the sheets but I don't know if it helped. I almost want to go in with light coats of watered-down paint and tint the panels a bit. That will likely wash away the chalks but might end up with a nicer look.
I will take a look a Mr Emery's achievements. I had a seen a picture of someone's recent weathering of some steel roof panels but do you think I can find it again....aaargh!
Michael Hohn Posted - 10/09/2018 : 08:05:41 AM

The sand color is good for representing a new wood color so yes, I would say you need to darken the ties. Maybe thinned gray and brown paints, randomly applied to the ties.

I agree with Jerry on the rusty panels.


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