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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Nelson458 Posted - 08/20/2017 : 3:01:26 PM
I have only recently, after some 5 or 6 years, started building a small layout. Although I am not much into operations, I do enjoy a little switching, and have found Peco insulfrog turnouts just the ticket for me, easy to throw the points, very little wiring. In fact, I might have gotten a little carried away with their turnouts . My 5' by 10' layout, is more destined to be a large diorama than an operating layout. And that was my intention.

Soooo, that being said, I have always wanted a small facility for the engines, nothing big, an engine shed (rather than a roundhouse) and machine shop, coaling station and a source of water. Ever since I built Sierra West's engine house, I thought that might be just the thing for this layout. Since that shed is HOn3, it won't do well here, besides, I have plans for that later.

So I set about planning the actual size of the shed. I already knew from the beginning what I wanted, and where, I just hadn't gotten the track set up and everything 'sized' so it would fit. It will be about 13.5" deep, contain 3 tracks, and one off to the side. I'm building it on 3/16" ply, it is pretty flat now, but after I glue stuff down that might change, so I am going to re-enforce the bottom with some sturdy hardwood. The layout sits on 2" foam, so I would need to cut into that for the added strips underneath.

The engine shed will be built very similarly to the Sierra West model, board by board on a framework of 6x6 stripwood. Or maybe 4x6. The roof will be peaked in the center, and the right hand stall will be set back 4.5" which will be used for small engines.

So far, I made a simple cardboard moch-up to see how it fits. I am glad I did, as the two r/h tracks didn't line up like I wanted. I had a short l/h turnout leading into those stalls and open area, and replaced it with a medium length 'Y' turnout. That proved to be much better. Sometimes a simple change is all that is needed.

So here are a couple of pictures, a birds-eye view and a sketch of the front of the shed. I hope to start on the project soon, but with an upcoming trip to Colorado for the show, not sure how far I will get before the next weekend.




15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Nelson458 Posted - 12/30/2018 : 8:18:10 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Guff

Tony,
You never cease to amaze me! Wonderful work on the roof sections!
Dave

. Thanks Dave
Nelson458 Posted - 12/30/2018 : 8:15:43 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Bernd

WOW, that roof looks fabulous.

Aren't the guys going to be upset when it rains and their tools get wet? Or are they going to cover the roof over before the next rain storm?

Bernd

. Bernt, no, I still have to add the battons, but maybe I should add a lot of buckets just to be sure, or something of that nature
Guff Posted - 12/30/2018 : 7:28:18 PM
Tony,
You never cease to amaze me! Wonderful work on the roof sections!
Dave
Bernd Posted - 12/30/2018 : 11:49:20 AM
WOW, that roof looks fabulous.

Aren't the guys going to be upset when it rains and their tools get wet? Or are they going to cover the roof over before the next rain storm?

Bernd
Nelson458 Posted - 12/30/2018 : 10:30:09 AM
quote:
Originally posted by UKGuy

Tony,
I finally found some pictures of Bill Michaels incredible HO scale "new wood" …
his colouring and detailing is just superb, unfortunately, you'll need
to scroll quite a ways down this page to see it...

www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/323/the-loco-and-service-shops-scratchbuilt-in-o-scale/p4

but its the best I've ever seen.

I hope it helps you and gives ideas.

Karl.A



Since my last computer crashed, I had to go back and look at this thread, and re-save all those pictures from Brett's forum. I had forgotten about a lot of the details, and if you don't mind, I am going to copy a few. I can't resist. Your attention to detail, Karl, is phenomenal, and has re-inspired me to look closer. I took to heart what you said in your message about slight differences in fresh cut wood, and I hope it shows on the shorty car I did. Thank you for jumping in and helping.

I welcome help or critique on anything I do, and can always change it if possible. Or just add to it. Karl, you stepped in at just the right moment, and I sincerely appreciate it.

My newer computer has 2 hard drives, they set it up with a smaller one to run the system, and a larger one for storage, so even if this new one eventually crashes, at least I'll have everything saved.
Nelson458 Posted - 12/30/2018 : 08:57:54 AM
Jerry, thank you. Nice of you to say.

Bryan, thank you.

Rich, The distance to the inspection pit wasn't that far, 3 inches maybe (?), and I just used a drill bit before too much was done, which was way back even before the walls were started, I think. I just used a long 3/16" bit, which cleared the size of the LED's. The rust solution doesn't seem to have a shelf life, as I have had it for a few years myself.

George, Thank you, and your welcome. I hope it is something others can use that may not have been thought of. I wanted to thin the 1/32" wood about .010, and decided not to do it as the size difference wasn't that much from a 2 by plank. Only after I cut them did I remember I had a sander from Jim Byrnes. I don't like using that sander much, as it doesn't have a feed roller or anything, you have to do it by hand and pull it out the other end in the same motion. It can have a kickback if your not careful, don't ask how I know. Just stand out of the line of fire.
George D Posted - 12/30/2018 : 07:35:25 AM
Your roof work looks great, Tony. Thanks for the detailed description on how your did them.

George
Pennman Posted - 12/30/2018 : 06:35:25 AM
Tony,

Noticing your wiring in the last few pictures, isn't it kind of difficult to pass them through the foam without tearing it up ? Did you use a drill bit or ice pick ? Or another method ? What was your longest length through the foam ?

I bought some of that rust solution a few years ago but haven't tried it yet. I hope it has a long shelf life. I like the weathering color used on the shed and roof. Great work.

Rich
brownbr Posted - 12/30/2018 : 06:13:02 AM
Looking good Tony.
TRAINS1941 Posted - 12/29/2018 : 11:28:21 PM
Tony looks great.

Overall so far you sure have done a fine job. Thanks for all the how tutorials.
Nelson458 Posted - 12/29/2018 : 4:40:43 PM
Finally got about 90% of the roof finished. I still have the battons to add to the main roof. I wanted to have wide boards so I could add the batons without it looking too over crowded, and the widest I had in enough of a bulk was 2x10. So I went digging in my surplus and found some 1/32" basswood without siding, and the thickness was only about .005" thicker than my 2-by's, so I decided to use this.

The photos show step by step, but basically, I first cut the boards to the correct length, and before I did anything else, just distressed and added weathering to the boards as a whole first, then using a square, cut strips off at random widths. All the pieces, except a few at 1/4", measure a scale 12-18", this method saved me a lot of time individually distressing each board. Gluing everything on the roof was not very hard, but I had to take a break mid way, and I purposely cut the boards slightly differing lengths for that random look I wanted.




































Nelson458 Posted - 12/27/2018 : 12:45:24 PM
Your welcome Mike.

Bernd, wow, I am honored. Thanks.
Bernd Posted - 12/27/2018 : 11:32:05 AM
Looking good Tony.

Going to study this thread with a magnifying glass for my up and coming TT scale engine house. Learned a lot following your build thread. I've ordered windows so I can design the wall's al la Tony Style.

Bernd
Michael Hohn Posted - 12/27/2018 : 09:33:53 AM
Thank you, Tony.
Nelson458 Posted - 12/27/2018 : 04:23:01 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Michael Hohn

Tony,

Very nice, especially the range of rust effects and colors.

I’m not familiar with the rust solution. Is it a metal treatment of some sort?

Mike

. Thanks Mike. Yes, the first ‘coating’ applied in two coats over 13 hours, letting one coat dry for one hour and the second one for 12 hours contains a metallic iron. The second coat is a watery solution which reacts to the iron to give the real rust effect. A little goes a long way, so a light coating of the ‘metalizer’ is all you need, and the nice thing about it is that you can apply it to almost any surface.

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