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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Dutchman Posted - 09/14/2015 : 09:16:32 AM
There has been an interest is having a Challenge focused on completing some of those 'in progress' projects that have been sitting on the shelf or the side of the modeling bench. For those living in the southern hemisphere, just consider it a Spring Challenge.

So, if you have a project in progress, either a current project or one from the distant past, this is your motivation to moving it into the completed column! The official dates for fall this year are September 23 - December 22, but for practical purposes, the Challenge thread will remain open from now thru the end of December.

You can post all of your progress photos and comment right in this thread.

Once done, please post a few "final pictures" in the thread dedicated to that purpose. Here is the link to that thread: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45958


Come Join the Challenge!


15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Shady Pine Posted - 03/21/2016 : 2:31:18 PM
Thanx Dutchman, Jeff.
I'll put together a couple posts and see about starting a casting thread thru the next couple weeks here.
Jeff G Posted - 03/21/2016 : 07:58:21 AM
Hey Shady Pine:

Thank for the info. Funny you should post this as I was just in "the shop" yesterday fiddling around with some painting experiments on the test pieces. I may give the Silastic a try when I get around to molding the girder sections for a stretch of el track. For me, the OOMOO is fine as I don't anticipate casting any more than I need for one project, so archival quality molds are not that important. The curved warehouse kind of demands cast plastic in order to curve the wall sections. That said, painting the resin has proven to be somewhat problematic with acrylics but I think I have found the answer. Who knows, I may try dental stone or ultracal.

Cheers!
Dutchman Posted - 03/20/2016 : 11:49:31 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Shady Pine



Q: Is there a part of the forum just for casting etc? I have learned a few tricks along the way that make casting MUCH easier and allows parts that most think are "impossible" to take a mold off. I'd like to dish on a few of these at some point coming up.




Mario, I would suggest opening a new thread in the Scratch Building Forum called 'Casting Techniques' or something similar. I think that it would be helpful for a lot of members and be an active thread.
Shady Pine Posted - 03/20/2016 : 02:00:27 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Jeff G

Okay, kids. Finally have some time and a working internet with which to post my project. I started this earlier this year and then had to put it all on hold until this challenge gave me the impetus to "git 'er done" as it were. It will be a very large curved warehouse or industry, hopefully with some fire escapes, billboards and perhaps some interior lighting to distract from the shabby modeling add interest. And away we go...

The grist for the mill, so to speak, are based on the great Al Armitage's classic Weekly Herald, Superior Bakery and two stall engine house kits of the late 50's. These have to be the most kitbashed kits ever, but I've always had a soft spot for them and so squirreled away a few courtesy of eBay.



And here are the masters. Sorry I didn't take before and after shots but I'll try and describe what I did as best I can. The top yellow wall section just has the foundation cut off up to the sill, the red section has the arch removed as well as the foundation just up to the sill, and the small window is from the bakery wall insert with the right side removed and a pilaster taken from the same piece from the Herald kit and attached in its place. A bit of styrene caps it all off.Both of the large wall sections had half the width of the outer pilasters removed, so when castings are joined together, they form a full width one. The key with all these modifications is to leave enough extra plastic after the initial cuts and then work your way to the final dimension with a large flat file and sandpaper.



The windows are as-is. The Lego pieces contain the rubber molding compound. They were hot-melted on and I can't quite remove these pieces. Clay alone would suffice in holding them in place and sealing the seam between the base and the bricks. That said, only use non-sulfurous clay such as Roma Plastilina. The sulfur inhibits the cure of the rubber and will leave you with a mess!




Here are the molds. I used OOMOO-30 from Smooth-On. I cannot recommend this product highly enough as this was the first molding and casting project for me and it was dead easy. That said, you'll note a bit of excess rubber which creeped under the window frames. This turned out not to be so much of a problem but there were other issues with this mold so stay tuned for that.



I made a jig from balsa wood glued to corrugated cardboard to curve the wall castings. First, I drew a radius, in this case 14", then plotted chords along the curve that matched the distance of each wall section from the centers of the pilasters.



Here is a subassembly of 2 intermediate walls and one cornice wall. Notice the slight curve. To curve the wall, you wait until the resin sets, about 10 minutes, then pop it out of the mold and lay it on the jig. It will sag into position since it's still soft but you have to be careful not to distort any of the details.



And here are 3 subassemblies just standing side by side to give you an idea of the sweep of the facade. You can't even see the far subassembly, except for the top part that's leaning in a bit. At the parts where they join, I plan on putting in a downspout to hide the joint.



Now, the problems. First, the windows. The good news is the mold works. The bad news is that the backing is too hard to easily remove the flashing from between the muntins. I will try pouring the resin and squeegeeing the excess off first before putting the cap on.



The other problem is with the walls. I'm not pleased with the way they are curving. Because they are 5/32" thick at the pilasters, the resin doesn't flatten out as much as I need. I think the solution will be to put a small triangular filler piece on the backing at the location of the pilasters which will create a relief space for the castings to bend easier.


Here's a flat subassembly I put together just to see how it takes paint and bit of weathering wash. I used a couple of Krylon colors but didn't realize they were satin and not flat. Wish I took notes on the sequence of things but I used a wash of thin acrylic paints and rubbing alcohol as well as Krylon Matte finish spray to try and deaden the sheen. I also washed a lot of it off with 409 and then tried again. Not bad but not exactly dead flat as I wanted. Also, you'll see a huge crack running through a pilaster on the second floor left side. I tried carving out a bit of the plastic to see if it would bend. You can also see on the edge where the wall distorted a bit where I tried clamping it to the jig to keep it flat.



And finally, here I'm playing with the layout a bit. On the bottom are DPM wall sections and the top piece is the ornate front cornice from the Weekly Herald. Might use one of the curved windows from the engine house here or perhaps a clock. Initial thought is to bend this with the center over the white single window walls. And just spotted where I need some filler pieces. We shall see!



That's it for now, kids. Time to get cracking!

Jeff, Bernd..
I know it's alittle late in this post but I figured you'd dig a "try this!" since you're well on your way with moldmaking.
If you do a lot of this, try the Dow Silastic stuff it's much nicer, thinner and stronger than the OOMOO stuff. It's like comparing foam to tire-rubber.

I don't like building structures in plastic so I usually make a mold for each kit I buy so I can make the walls in Dental Plaster which is like Durabond but finer and stronger, and make the kits less "selectively compressed", as I can add a few more rows of windows or repeat a wall so it's taller or longer.

Below are some of my molds, I have made of about 30 buildings. I don't resell or give these away, and I retain the kits tho I dunno why.

Here you can see MT Arms and one of the Merchant's Row, as well as a large mold for a plain sheet of bonded brick. Also there's a gang-mold that has numerous detail parts and favorite windows for projects.

It costs a little more to get into the Dow Silastic stuff because while it's a lot cheaper you have to buy it in LARGE quantities.. but some of my molds are over 10 yrs old and they don't tear, shrink or well.. anything.

Q: Is there a part of the forum just for casting etc? I have learned a few tricks along the way that make casting MUCH easier and allows parts that most think are "impossible" to take a mold off. I'd like to dish on a few of these at some point coming up.

GREAT stuff guys!



Download Attachment: 201.jpg
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Michael Hohn Posted - 01/03/2016 : 8:33:54 PM
Dave,

Nice job! Those doors light my fire!

Stonework also looks really nice. I like the subtle coloration. Is it pretty much done?

Mike
____________________________________________________________________
deemery Posted - 01/03/2016 : 8:23:38 PM
My goal for the end of the year was to get the doors on the roundhouse. I missed by a couple of days, but the doors are finally hung:

Now I need to touch up the stonework and the dirt floors, finish the interior (including glazing and installing the windows), and then finish the lighting.

dave
Orionvp17 Posted - 12/26/2015 : 11:28:44 AM
Bruce,

Nice job on Morty's, or is it Evie's?

As to the headlights, have you considered white or silver glitter paint? I've found this stuff to be really good for lights of one color or another, and use them on emergency vehicles with nice results. I get mine at a popular big-box craft store, in the tee-shirt painting stuff aisle.

Pete
in Michigan

Dutchman Posted - 12/26/2015 : 11:08:23 AM
Back on page 2 of this thread, I posted this picture of a partially finished Alloy Forms Car (my first).



It is now finished except I should do something with the head lights. Thoughts?




quartergauger48 Posted - 12/23/2015 : 11:23:58 PM
quote:
Originally posted by morten1996

Some progress on the paint job of my M-10005 A-unit...



Currently I'm working on noarrowing the lower red stripe - first application was too big by app. 3/16" by referencing to a photo from a later phase.

Regards
Norman


That is a beautiful locomotive!. I can't wait to see it run'..Very nice'..
Michael Hohn Posted - 12/23/2015 : 9:15:18 PM
Bruce,
I really like what you did with Morty's Market to transform it into Evie Bean's Beanery. The interior looks great. The shingled front overhang was the way to go, along with the colors. It looks like the kind of building you see all over the place, ordinarily going unnoticed. Not really a very attractive commercial style but that's part of your model's realism. What a nice job you did throughout.
Mike
Dutchman Posted - 12/23/2015 : 7:34:46 PM
I finally finished up Evie Bean's Beanery (Morty's Market).














Dutchman Posted - 12/23/2015 : 7:28:57 PM
Beautiful, Norman.
morten1996 Posted - 12/20/2015 : 09:43:05 AM
Some progress on the paint job of my M-10005 A-unit...



Currently I'm working on noarrowing the lower red stripe - first application was too big by app. 3/16" by referencing to a photo from a later phase.

Regards
Norman
Dutchman Posted - 12/10/2015 : 08:29:46 AM
Great job, Norman!
sgtbob Posted - 12/10/2015 : 06:25:26 AM
BIG and BEAUTIFUL covers it.

What a fantastic job..

Bob

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