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 Dewey Bros. oscillating cylinders steam loco

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
BreizhSteamer Posted - 11/20/2014 : 3:24:51 PM
Let's get started, shall we?

In this thread I'd like to document my very first attempt to scratch-build a steam locomotive in Fn3 (1/20.32, 3-ft-narrow gauge).
My model of choice is an industrial loco of the late 19th century:

(Source: Sinclair, Angus: Development of the locomotive engine, New York 1907, p.511)
As you can see, a small 0-4-2t with some very interesting features. The cylinders are oscillating, something that is more common with steam boats and stationary engines. I chose this model because
a) it has a very simple running gear, no valve gear
b) the chassis is quite simplistic
c) I adore the overall cute look!
All in all I think that this model gives me both an technically interesting and at the same time hopefully simple-to-create goal to achieve.

(Side-note: I'm pretty certain that the pictured loco is standard gauge, but Dewey Bros. built 3ft. narrow gauge as well. So I believe I'm justified in using this specific prototype for my model. I've already done some research on the loco and the company which built it, however information is scarce on both of them. I'll soon post what I've got.)

Right now, I'm asking for your opinion on the dimensions I added to the photo, especially the wheels. Do you think they are plausible? Time is a bit of the essence because this weekend I want to go to "Modellbahn Köln" (International Model Railway Fair at Cologne) and purchase the wheel sets. So if you could please give me some feedback until Saturday I'd be most thankfull!


15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
BreizhSteamer Posted - 09/12/2016 : 3:54:59 PM
Hello all around,

my goodness, almost half a year since my last post... sorry for keeping you all in the dark that long!

My Dewey Bros. loco is coming along, however there hasn't been any substantial progress - at least nothing that I think is worth sharing for the moment.

However, I have made some experiments on battery-powered R/C. You can check out the results in this thread:

Best regards,

jbvb Posted - 03/22/2016 : 2:54:26 PM
I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I believe the '3-point' definition assigns one point to each set of wheels that are equalized together. In the drawings I responded to, the two front axle wheels would make up one point because they are equalized together. Mechanically, I thing the center of force for that point would be the pivot of the equalizer.
BreizhSteamer Posted - 03/22/2016 : 11:01:06 AM
Ray, thanks, it's good to be active again. I hope this time I can keep it up for some time.

jbvb, thank you for those thoughts! I agree that the trailing truck can't contribute much to the model, except weight distribution and good looks (which are good things - don't get me wrong! )
Fortunately my current design allows for a modular build, that is I could start with independent springs, then build additional parts and swap them on the front drivers. Of course assuming that I'm able to build the parts in the first place.
So I think I'll start with the independent suspension, it's the easier design anyway.

However, on a more theoretical approach, wouldn't a three point suspension still be feasible with equalised springs, provided that the springs aren't too powerful? Just being curious.

Best regards,

Ray Dunakin Posted - 03/21/2016 : 10:17:37 PM
Welcome back. Nice to see an update on this project.
jbvb Posted - 03/21/2016 : 6:42:23 PM
One common thread through everything I've read about equalized steam locomotive suspensions is 'three point suspension'. If your driven (rear) axle isn't sprung at all, consider making the two sides of the front axle independent. I don't think that kind of trailing truck can be made to be more than a single point of suspension, unless you've got prototype physics on your side.
BreizhSteamer Posted - 03/21/2016 : 5:44:06 PM
Hello again - yes, I'm still around.

jbvb, Frederic, thank you very much for your votes, I paid heed.

After a long, long break I’ve found some time to work on my locomotive. In order to finally construct the drivers‘ axle bearings, I need to be sure about what the springs‘ suspension is going to look like.
Since I haven’t got much information on the prototype, I spent the whole last week researching similar types. After a lot of pros and cons I’m now favorising a flexible suspension with an equalising bar:

I’d be very glad if you could give any feedback, surely there’s still a lot left to improve. Besides I’m interested in any experiences on this fine-scaled, but definitely complex approach. Do you think that it would pay off in terms of the loco’s driving behaviour?

Next, I will focus on the rear drivers. They are supposed to get powered by the electric motor, so they won’t get a real suspension, but a mock-up. At the same time I want to enlarge the fire box in order to hide the gear box. Hopefully I’ll be able to look into it this week.
Frederic Testard Posted - 01/02/2016 : 2:50:00 PM
I vote for version number 2 too.
jbvb Posted - 01/01/2016 : 10:50:27 PM
Looking at the overall balance of the loco, I think the shorter one looks more probable. Also, the builders of this loco probably wouldn't have given it an equalized suspension, so less reason to put the pivot close to the driving axles.
BreizhSteamer Posted - 01/01/2016 : 3:19:32 PM
Happy new year, everybody!

Today I focused on the Axle Bearing of the Trailing Wheel. I’m currently wondering which would be the best length for its boom. Right now, I’ve got the choice between two versions: the originally drawn, long version and a new one, which is considerably shorter. Here's the long version:

The longer version has the advantage of a decisively tighter curve radius. However, the shorter Version will leave a lot more space below the driver’s cabin for the planned electric motor:

So I’d be very grateful for some feedback on which version you prefer. What are your thoughts?

Best regards,

BreizhSteamer Posted - 11/29/2015 : 03:03:30 AM
Hello everyone,

as promised some more details on my progress:
Recently, I finally could make progress on the axle bearings. Until then I scratched my head on how to realize the bearings and especially the connection between the leaf springs and frame in a way that supplies both prototypically accurate and solid results - without purchasing a lathe and mill.

The first image shows the basic concept: two plates (how are they named in english, please?) are going to be brazed to the frame bars, which are also going to be reinforced on the inner side of the frame. I'll say more on that on a later post. On these plates I want to attach two slides to guide the axle bearings. I'm planning to use screws to fasten these slides, so I can replace them if need be. Between these slides the actual bearing should be cut and filed from a piece of copper to accomodate the axle. On top of the bearing I'm planning to braze a piece of four-sided brass which will serve as a connection to the spring support. The latter could either be made out of solid foursided brass or maybe brazed from several brass pieces. I'm not sure which it will be, yet.

The actual breakthrough on my behalf is more visible in this exploded drawing: The bearing will receive a cut-in in which the connection to the springs will be placed. As mentioned, I want to braze a piece of foursided brass, which will allow me to construct this mounting without a mill. I'm also thinking about securing the spring connection with a threaded rod, although I'll have to check first whether I can remove that rod without having to disassemble the driver set. I'd like to be able to remove the whole driver set including the bearing as one group from the frame - but I'll have to wait and see whether this is going to be possible and necessary, too.

As always, I'm asking for advice on this one: Do you think that my idea is going to work? What would you do differently? Any other ideas what I could add or remove from the construction?

Thanks in advance and best regards,

BreizhSteamer Posted - 11/22/2015 : 11:59:25 AM
Hello everybody,

things have settled down a bit. I've had a whole lot of different things going on, most of them concerning job and family. I couldn't spend much time on the loco, nevertheless there was some progress.

A few weeks ago, I re-read this thread. Doing that I noticed that I failed to implement all of Thayer's suggestions into my drawings. Most importantly the stack's dimensions were too big while the boiler was too small in diametre.

In order to finally implement these adjustments and even more importantly in order to get a better feel for the loco as a whole, I set out to complete the 3D drawing as soon as possible. To that end I'm using a lot of placeholders. In this version, boiler, cab and tender are 100% dummies. Nevertheless one can already recognize the overall dimensions quite easily.

I'm hoping to get a lot of feedback, which in turn will help me to replace those dummies one after another by actual construction parts.
In the meantime I also continued work on the chassis. The drivers look good right now, therefor I'm focusing on the trailing wheel. Expect some more posts in the upcoming concerning these topics.

In the meantime, it's good to be back in the saddle!
BreizhSteamer Posted - 08/02/2015 : 03:56:18 AM
Hello everybody,

just a quick still-alive-update. Things are changing around here, new job (again!) and a new home.
I don't think I'll be able to make any progress with the locomotive before november.

Just wanted to let you know.

Best regards,

BreizhSteamer Posted - 07/14/2015 : 01:58:07 AM
Hello Ray,

I got those from Regner Dampftechnik (http://www.regner-dampftechnik.de), a german live steam company. It's a small family business that has some nice product lines for the 2m and 2e gauge (scale 1 / 22.5).

Best regards,

Ray Dunakin Posted - 07/12/2015 : 11:53:26 PM
What was your source for the drive wheels?
jbvb Posted - 07/12/2015 : 07:24:37 AM
Looks nice. As for the brazing, if the joints are solid, square and properly located that's all hobby work needs.

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