|T O P I C R E V I E W
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 3:07:59 PM
I was hoping to get some advice on how to fix a warping problem.
Above I have the two pieces that will make up the rear of my barn wall. It is about 47 scale ft. to the peak, and it is in S scale, so the normal 6 inch wide NorthEastern basswood clapboard obviously wasn't high enough. (don't they sell this stuff in bigger sheets or something?)
So...what I did was glue together the two pieces and put a support piece on the back for strength. The support piece is balsa.
This worked out swell for front wall...but the rear wall looks something like this:
I don't quite understand why. I had it weighted down totally flat overnight. The only thing I can think of is that I was a little "heavy handed" with the glue, and maybe the balsa wood splice just sucked it up and and curled. (I dunno)
My question is...how do I fix it?
Do I wet the whole thing...or one of the sides (back or front) and then press it flat under glass or something?
It is difficult to brace the whole thing now because the splice is kind of in the way.
|14 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
||Posted - 03/15/2011 : 12:59:19 PM
I seem to have heard of this happening before.....
||Posted - 03/14/2011 : 5:14:50 PM
On another track, what's wrong with the warp? I've seen many real structures with warps of various types, perhaps due to water damage since the time of their construction.
If you put in a square "floor" inside the walls and add a square "ceiling" to make the lower part plumb and square, then perhaps putting in a square (rectangular) under-roof on one side, that might bend the warp out of that piece.
||Posted - 03/14/2011 : 12:10:38 PM
"stick more wood under the vertical braces"
I'm an idiot.
I totally didn't even think of that! (so simple)
Thank you Neil. I'm gonna give that a try tonight and see how it goes.
||Posted - 03/14/2011 : 09:48:22 AM
Sorry, got it from Walt
Neil's suggestion is an option if you can't get the old balsa off.
Just add pieces of balsa under the vertical braces and weight it down until it dries and hope the warp goes away.
As for 'S' scale, there is quite a bit out there. And definitely check with Frederic as his modeling is S scale as are his buildings and he has tons of research info for S.
||Posted - 03/14/2011 : 05:15:21 AM
you could stick more balsa to the wall under the vertical braces if you don't want to remove the balsa brace that is there.
it would be a good idea to brace the other walls as well to avoid then warping in the future.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 10:23:48 PM
Not a problem, Walt.
Sometimes I think the only reason I remember my own name is because my wife "reminds" me of it so often ("Paul, do this...Paul, do that)
She even has the nerve to complain about sending part of my paycheck to you! (the nerve of that woman)
BTW...I do love your products. And I appreciate the fact that you do make some in "S" scale. I'm just getting in to the hobby, and made the decision to work in "S"....but I think I am in for a long lonely road...because there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of offerings out there for this scale. It will either make me a better modeler, or be the death of me!
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 7:03:34 PM
Paul, Sorry, I tend to do that, even forget who I am sometimes!
Your issue is why I use 1/32" plywood for a sub-wall on all my kits, well most of them anyway.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 6:20:47 PM
Thanks Walt and Dave,
My name is Paul actually...Lance was one of the people that responded to my Post.
It makes sense that I should run a brace the full length. (across the splice).
I was worried that running over the top of the splice though would compound the problem...but perhaps you are correct Dave...maybe I could remove the splice first (but I REALLY used alot of Flamingo glue on it...I thought it would make it strong...now it's just strong and crooked)
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 5:51:09 PM
You always want your braces to have the grain running in the opposite direction to the grain of the wall.
I would bet that you could remove that balsa piece (might have to do a bit of sanding) and then put a couple of vertical braces on the walls.
Chris' suggestion is good but I have the same fear that you mentioned so it is better to fix it correctly now before you get too far into it.
I always add a ridge piece to my structures too for strength in the roof.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 4:25:13 PM
Lance, You need stripwood braces that cross the splice. that way the grain is going in the opposite direction from the siding. You should have at least two pieces and at least 10x10 HO scale in size.
Those long vertical pieces should extend across the splice.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 4:13:55 PM
I had not thought of that! That does seem like it might work. Although, with me luck, the rear wall would just push out the the front wall and they would both be warped.
Actually, if I can "super-brace" the front wall, and not brace the peak part of the rear wall, I would probably be ok.
I think you may be right. It was so much easier to cut the balsa with the grain that I got lazy...next time I will make sure that the two pieces grain run perpendicular to each other.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 4:00:30 PM
The grain on the balsa piece goes the same way. I'm guessing that is the problem. If you can add some beefy braces like the ones you have lower down going across the splice at right angles I'm sure it would help.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 3:59:45 PM
The grain on the balsa piece goes the same way. I'm guessing that is the problem. If you can add some beefy braces like the ones you have lower down going across the splice I'm sure it would hel[.
||Posted - 03/13/2011 : 3:58:48 PM
Since the back is unpainted there is a tendancy for the wood to warp. At this point I would build the four walls of the structure and put a bass wood beam across the building peaks from one end to another. This will force the top pitch of the roof out and take the warp out of it.