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|T O P I C R E V I E W
||Posted - 01/04/2011 : 11:11:14 AM
“Have you ever wanted to redo a model to ‘dress it up’ once it is set in a diorama? How about trying the model in a different scale, or
add in some other kits which can really ‘kick-up’ the final scene?”
The above statement was part of my closing comments from the Silverado
Mine diorama completed last year. The build thread can be located at:
The opening paragraph is the “mission statement” for this new thread
AND YOU ARE INVITED TO JOIN IN. Over the next 6 weeks or so we will
have some meetings and discuss plans on how we can bring that ore
bearing rock to the surface and what surface structures we may want to
Actual construction is projected to start in mid February, so
everyone will have time to get the wood and other needed components to
their building sites. There is also a very strong commitment from the
Gilpin Tram management team to have tracks available to be picking up
ore from the various mine sites in time for the Seattle National Narrow
Gauge convention, so we have about 2 years to build the mine dioramas.
For my part, I plan to again use the Silverado Mine plan set from CC
Crow. I have decided to build the mine again, but in O-scale and dress
up the structure with items which I wish I had added to the completed HO
model, such as more platforms, outside stairways, tension rods, etc.
I’ll add a larger overall mine scene, with a couple more tipples and a
ore tram track and steam pipes crossing the main tracks.
***THE BIG PLAN***
I have decided to add at least two, and possibly three, SierraWest Scale
Model kits to the diorama. One will be the O-scale Tool Shed which is
currently under construction.
The second will be the O-scale Mill Engine and Boilerhouse. Most of
the modifications to the second kit will be in the form of interior
castings. I think if one looks, you can probably see how the Boilerhouse
kit can be fairly easily substituted for the hoist house on the
completed HO diorama.
And yes, I will be keeping the big boiler and steam engine. It's the far back wall which
will be modified.
With a bit of modification the new SierraWest Scale Models Wood Cutter’s Shack
can become a compressor house. Anvil Mountain Models ( http://www.anvilmountainmodels.com ) has some ore bins
which will be used to provide additional interest to and expand the
diorama scene. A water tank and explosives bunker will also be included
in the distant hillsides of the diorama.
As a side note, by holding construction off until mid-February, it will
allow time for those who need it to complete current projects. (For myself, I will be completing a Hunted House build.) So if
you are interested in joining in, we would love to have you.
You may have noted by the thread title that there are at least two mines
going up here. I’ll turn over the soap box to Michael (aka:
silveradonorthern) for a few words.
|15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
||Posted - 04/13/2013 : 10:00:29 AM
Great news, Jerry. I'm really happy to read this.
Nobody knows about Michael?
||Posted - 04/13/2013 : 08:13:40 AM
Frederic I have been talking (emailing) with Kris the last week or so.
He has been busy with clinics and such. But said he was working on his own stuff again and hopefully we will see this moving forward.
||Posted - 04/13/2013 : 06:52:21 AM
Yes, this one has been quiet for a long time.
Does any forum member have some news from Kris and Michael?
||Posted - 04/10/2013 : 10:18:07 AM
Just wanted to give this a bump, great topic.
||Posted - 06/08/2012 : 11:54:55 AM
Below you will find the walls again, but this time the front wall (wall on the left) has had the Silverwood wash applied, which toned the wall down a bit and helped in making it more presentable. One can easily see the difference in the color of the wall simply by quickly comparing the picture below to the picture posted yesterday. This last Silverwood wash was applied using a #1 fan brush with a moist ‘dry brush’ technique. The walls will be toned down just a bit more with the final light A-I wash which will be applied once the nail holes and window frames are in place.
Well... I have to admit here that I really, really screwed up in the construction of the front wall. I ran face first flat into one of the issues of doing long term projects and putting the project aside for a more than a few weeks at a time. It does not show in the pictures, but the front wall on the tall end is a full 1/16th of an inch taller than the back wall. Both walls rear heights are the same, and the windows match up when the floor framing is matched. (There are overhang boards on the bottom of the walls which extend past where the floor will be located.) I thought that had checked with calipers the frame heights on the second (front) wall drawing against the rear wall template drawing, but I obviously did not do so. I must have miscounted squares on the grid lined paper on which I draw the framing templates and from which I made my cutting measurements. As I had such a delay between the two walls, I had reset my chopper stop and only looked at the template I was working on. I have not screwed up like this since modeling in the 6th or 7th grade. Anyway, this is something we all have done somewhere, and the trick is how to handle it.
I could do what I usually do in this situation, and that is a total rebuild of the wall. But due to time constraints, I’d like to come up with an alternate fix. I have decided that since the rear wall (the one which is short) will not be seen normally once the structure is on the diorama, I can do a hide and seek fix.
I’m going to add a 1/16th in square (the paper grid lines are 1/16th inch) strip wood piece to the top of the rear wall and then cut/sand the piece to match the slope of the front wall. When I’m doing the roof, I’ll put a full length roof rafter on the outside of both walls, butted up against both walls. This will hide the rear wall fix when viewed by the few folks (read judges) who may see the rear of the structure. The ends will of course be covered by siding. This may not be prototypical, and I may have to use a bit larger than usual rafters, but I think that I can hide the error & fix in fairly short order. I’ll document the fix as we move forward.
||Posted - 06/07/2012 : 10:48:20 PM
Nice work on that wall Kris, the warmer tones really look good and give a nice contrast to the orebin.
Great to read you will be making progress again Frederic, Summer holidays are one of the perks of the job..... I look forward to seeing your next installment.
(I'm sure with, planning for next years classes, teachers meetings and other such duties the six week vacation that the students get will be eaten into severely for yourself, however, hopefully you will be able to grab a few hours to enjoy yourself)
||Posted - 06/07/2012 : 5:04:41 PM
Great minds.... or is it 'mines'.....
||Posted - 06/07/2012 : 2:33:38 PM
This is a really nice, warm color, Kris.
It's funny you post this the very day I restarted the work on the landscape near the kitchen and the Allison mine.
||Posted - 06/07/2012 : 12:43:22 PM
Great work. Really like the way it shows how the Silverwood changes things and tones it down.
Really happy to see the comparsion. And glad to see you back at the bench working on this again.
||Posted - 06/07/2012 : 12:23:02 PM
Nice color tone's , like it !
||Posted - 06/07/2012 : 10:34:06 AM
Well, finally got the large volume of strip wood colored and the second long (front) ore bin house wall completed.
On this front wall I was shooting for the brighter orange hues just below/under the top and middle cross timbers on the ore bin. The brighter orange colored wall is going to become the front wall facing the viewers.
As you will note, there is a large coloring difference between the two walls. The coloring difference is probably mainly due to the fact that I did not wash the strip wood with the Silverwood wash prior to coloring the wood as I did on the first wall. So this picture really brings out how the base coloring of the wood affects the final coloring when using chalks.
If you refer back to page 10 of this thread, there is a step-by-step instructions on how I colored the wood used in the walls. I skipped step #2 on the brighter front wall. I have not yet gone back and used the second Silverwood wash in this photo. I'm hoping that with the additional wash the wall will tone down and blend a bit better. But I did want to show the wall in it's current state so you can see the effects of step #2 in the wood coloring. I'll try to post tomorrow another shot showing the wall after the second Silverwood wash.
||Posted - 03/31/2012 : 11:19:12 AM
Hey Kris, great tip about using the glue/toothpick/bin.
Though,by the looks of it you may have an Altoids addiction.
||Posted - 03/31/2012 : 11:12:05 AM
impressive framing. Lots of planning and effort went into that.
||Posted - 03/31/2012 : 10:58:09 AM
Thanks all for taking a peek at what I'm up to. I KNOW that Michael has been working a bit in the background on his modeling and is working on some coloring issues which he wanted to work out. Not sure why as his stuff is just frigging outstanding to my eye... So maybe we can get him back here soon.
For myself, thought that I'd post a couple of pictures of my model work bench with the project under construction. I very often study the few pictures of modelers benches to see how they are doing things, but we often do not see 'the bench' and what is really going on in the construction phase. So, with that in mind thought I'd just throw a couple of pictures in for those who may want to see 'where I live', all of the about 24x36 inches of it.
In the first picture you can see how I use some of the different weights/squares and triangles to hold down the frame pieces and to get the frame square and in a single plane. You can also see how I will cut a piece a bit long to fit an angle, and then angle sand both ends of the piece. (See the piece at the end of the tweezers.) I then 'test fit' both ends prior to cutting the piece to size at at the end with the 90 degree square cut. This allows me to get the best possible angle end. In addition, if for some reason I am not happy with either angle end, I simply re-sand that angle and try again. Good fitting pieces make for a better glue joint in my experience.
The second picture is more of the same, but a bit more of the overview of the actual bench. The big MODELERS TIP here is something which is not really seen. I have started using a high quality packing tape, the 2 inch wide stuff to tape down/cover the plans. I have for years used the wax paper trick for covering plans, but have discovered that withthe packing tape is even easier to remove parts from the tape than the wax paper. The glue just does not stick as much as it does to the wax paper. In addition, I don't experience the 'stretching' of the wax paper or plans below the wax paper, which used to be a problem for me with projects going over a few days or weeks. The third advantage is that the packing tape does not cut quit as easily as the wax paper. Finally, if you cut just outside of the plans/constructed piece, you can lift up the plans and lightly bend the plans/tape away from the constructed piece. You also have the plans ready to store or use in a modeling contest if desired. (Like submitting with the paperwork for that AP merit award.) NOTE: BE SURE TO USE THE GOOD STUFF FOR THE TAPE, like Scotch or 3M products. The cheaper packing tape just does not work for some reason. I use the Scotch brand.
One other tick I use here which often gets comments at shows is the glue/toothpick bin. It is an Altoid's tin with toothpicks loaded in the tin and old business cards in the lid. I sit the tin so that the lid is on the glass sheet and the bin is off of the glass, thus the lid is flat. I just put glue on the top business and rest used tootpicks in the glue dab. I just toss the business card when it gets loaded with glue and used toothpicks, and a fresh card is ready for use.
The final picture shows how my work area has been for the past 5 days. I just have not gotten any modeling done, even though I have planed to do so every day. The large amount of strip wood is all grained and ready for staining. The reason for the large amount of wood is that I'm also coloring the wood for the conveyor house which goes between the ore bin house and the shaft house. This will allow me a larger amount of colored wood to draw from for the front of the ore bin, which due to the chutes and other details, catches the viewer's eye and is more of the focus than the any of the other components within the scene.
The other tip here is the use of the forum. Not only is it a great place to get ideas, but one can document their work. For the coloring of the bundle of strip wood.... thank God for page 10 of this thread. I documented how I colored the wood and can now reproduce it...
Well, I hope this little novel allowed you a bit more insight, and that maybe with the tip or two you have gleaned here that your modeling tasks will become a bit more friendly.
As always... comments and discussions are welcome.
||Posted - 03/25/2012 : 10:11:21 AM
Kris - looks good - would probably expect the end boards to be a bit more gringy from all that wear - whacha think?
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