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| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Chuck Doan |
Posted - 10/24/2005 : 3:25:46 PM
I decided to start a construction thread of my current project. Although it is in 1/16 scale(!), and is not exactly a railroad theme, I am hoping some of the ideas might be usable in any scale diorama or layout scene. I have already tried a number of new ideas that I plan to use when I come back “home” to O scale.
Concept
This will be a simple small diorama that will serve as a display for my Dad’s 1/16 scale die cast Fordson tractor. The background will be the wall of an old barn, with some associated clutter. It is being built on a “stage” that will slip into a lighted, wall mounted display case. The tractor is slated to undergo some “slight” weathering, although the full extent has yet to be decided. (My Dad doesn’t know that part yet!)
Research
I love old barns and tractors, and I started by doing some research on the Web. I did am image search using Google, entering names such as Barn, Barns, Mail Pouch barns, etc. Fortunately, a lot of photographers share my interest, and I found many great pictures of old, wonderfully decrepit barns. One of the better sites was a photo sharing forum called flickr.com. I recommend this site for many other subjects, try searching subjects like Rust, Peeling paint, Rural decay, and Weathered wood (and, of course, Barns!) It’s also worth looking at some artist sites, since many painters are trying to create the same effects we are! With a folder full of photo inspiration, I started to come up with a concept.
This is a crude sketch of the concept. As you can see, the wall measures 7.5” high x 12” long. The base of the stage is about 7” wide. I didn’t have nearly enough room for all the neat “barn-ey” features I found, but this may prove a blessing due to the level of detail I am planning to do!
Construction
I am going to tackle the background wall and base first, and then the tractor. Here is progress so far. I have begun applying individual boards to a piece of ¼” thick foam core that serves as the foundation for the wall. Horizontal stripwood stringers were glued on as a frame for the siding. The door and one of the windows have been cut out. I will eventually add some bracing to the backside, as the foam core warps easily.
Wood prep: I started with Midwest brand basswood. My LHS carries the fractional sizes I need in this scale. (For example, a 1 X 12 board is made from 1/16” x 3/4" stock). I sanded the surface with 400 grit sandpaper, and then added grain with a wire brush. I added splits with a #11 X-Acto. I experimented with adding rough cut saw marks to some of the boards by dragging them across the edge of my disc sander. This is a subjective technique, but well worth it in this scale since rough cut boards were commonly used in barns and the circular marks really show up well. I chawed up the bottoms of the boards with the X-Acto, picking sideways with blade. Luckily, a lot photographers find rotting wood charming, so I had some good reference photos. The knots were made thusly: disc sand a piece of square stripwood roundish and slightly tapered, and cut off. Drill a hole in the board, and press the “knot” in, small end first like a cork. Glue in from behind (basically same as the toothpick method I read about by modeler Bill Miller). Some of the knots were made in an oval shape as well. I then added some insect damage with a dental pick. Then I did a final light sand with 400 grit sandpaper to de-fuzz as much as possible, but not lose grain detail. Finally, I scrubbed each board lightly with short stiff paint brush to clean out the grain.
Finish: I used Builders In Scale Silverwood stain, about 5-8 applications. I applied some Bragdon powders using an artists stump, trying for some of the color variations found in old wood. I used black, gray’s and browns. I then “washed” the powders in a grain flow pattern by brushing on Acetone. The paint was applied one board at a time, by first brushing the surface with Paint thinner, followed by a couple of brushed out coats of Floquil Polly S Oxide Red. After a minute or so, I took Scotch Magic tape and lifted the paint in a random pattern. Then I lightly scuff sanded the paint with 400/600 grit sandpaper to dull and fade. The faded water stained bottom method: I stopped painting right about I wanted the fade to start. I took a small stiff brush dampened with Acetone and wiped bottom up. Acetone lightens the Silverwood stain. I then applied Bragdon white powder. I washed and blended the powder with acetone until just a trace of grayish white was left. I then took a sharp tipped brush and carefully applied Silverwood along top edge of fade line and other spots, almost as a dry brush since Silverwood spreads and creeps easily if too much applied.
BTW: PLEASE USE THESE ITEMS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!
Here is a close-up shot of a portion of the wall. I have installed the door sill, but still need to add the white trim pieces.
Here is a close-up of the sill and some of the nail detail. (this kind of detail is why its a blessing I only have a small part of a wall to do!) “Nails” are .022 brass wire, cut about 3/16” long. Sand one end flat. Blackened and then pressed into pre-drilled holes. Rusted with Bragdon rust powder applied wet with a sharp tipped brush. Last step was applying some Silverwood stain around the heads, very carefully, just a touch with an almost dry brush to minimize excess flow. Shake the bottle of Silverwood and then loosen the cap just a bit so some flows around the threads. When dry, dip brush in Silverwood, then mop up some of the dried stain and you get some really dark stain. Be careful though, it is permanent! I tried this around some of the nails too.
Of course, a lot of this nutty detail will be hard to see when the scene is installed in the display case. But then, rational thinking has never been a part of my modeling process!
That’s about it for now. I’ll keep adding pictures as I make progress. There’s still a lot to do for such a “simple” project!
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| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Frederic Testard |
Posted - 10/04/2008 : 6:08:30 PM
Thank you for the hint about thin copper wire, Matthew. It could work for nails and for this small hinge question. |
| Hume Lumber Co |
Posted - 10/04/2008 : 12:17:14 PM
Chuck,
It looks like I started a new topic! Maybe you should actually make a new topic. Maybe you can label it, "small scale vocation."
What era was this building built? I love false front buildings from any era! I did see your other topic about the widow shutters... Very interesting! It will be great to see your skill in action of this model.
Regarding scale nails what about fine cooper wire from small braided electrical wires? I never have checked the size, but I know it can get very fine...
Have fun!
Matthew |
| DaVinci1953 |
Posted - 10/04/2008 : 10:53:02 AM
I know I've used guitar strings with a .009 diameter. Guitar strings in various sizes come in handy once in a while.
Lance |
| Frederic Testard |
Posted - 10/04/2008 : 02:27:53 AM
It seems possible Chuck. Here in France, my metal provider sells 0.2mm diameter brass rods. Compared to 0.007" = 0.177, this is about 13% more. Not perfect, but not bad.
BTW, I have never found here rods with a diameter smaller than 0.2mm, and yet one can find tubing with an inside diameter of 0.15mm which would be excellent for very thin hinges for instance. What's the minimum size available in your area? |
| Chuck Doan |
Posted - 10/03/2008 : 7:05:50 PM
Thanks Matthew, I have one possible project brewing...maybe in O scale! Let's see, nail heads would be about .007...
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| Hume Lumber Co |
Posted - 10/03/2008 : 6:44:07 PM
Chuck,
Really there is nothing more I can say about this model. I think you set the bar high for great modeling.
But I do have something to say about your future modeling... You say this is your "Large scale vacation," so now that the vacation is over I wonder what is next. Every time I saw advancements here I always thought, "What could be done in HO?" So I am logging forward to you going back to a not so large scale and using methods you were able to do here. Maybe you could do a window/wall that could be either HO or O scale... Anyway I know you already have plans and look forward to what is next!
Thanks for all your sharing!
Matthew |
| angelanzus |
Posted - 10/03/2008 : 11:56:47 AM
Thank you Chuck. I'll look there.
Angela |
| Chuck Doan |
Posted - 10/03/2008 : 10:02:05 AM
Thank you very much! It was a fun project to build and share. Angela, I have generally tried to bring my forum notes into my Fotki album:
http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/
Every so often I update some of the information below many of the photos.
John, he has seen progress pics, but not the model in person. I hope to hand it over next weekend.
Chuck |
| angelanzus |
Posted - 10/01/2008 : 12:22:12 PM
Chuck do you have anywhere all your projects and all these hints???? or are they scattered throughout the forum. You need a forum all to yourself!
Angela |
| Bbags |
Posted - 10/01/2008 : 08:24:29 AM
Excellent rendition of real life Chuck.
Not only is your modeling top notch but your ability and willingness to share in clear terms the methods and techniques that you have used to create this masterpiece is some of the best that I have ever read.
I am sure you Dad is very proud of what you have created. |
| Tyson Rayles |
Posted - 10/01/2008 : 08:14:28 AM
Excellent as always Chuck! |
| hon3_rr |
Posted - 09/30/2008 : 10:47:20 PM
This is something to bethold! Thank you ever so much for the ride. I'm looking forward to your next project, but will return to this thread many times for ideas and to refresh my modeling spirit. |
| angelanzus |
Posted - 09/30/2008 : 9:24:02 PM
Chuck, once again you astound me with your craftsmanship - your work is awesome, inspiring and incredible! Thank you so much for sharing your talents with us all and you really give me a standard to aspire to. How I would love to watch you work!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you again and please keep it up and I look forward to seeing more of your work.
Angela |
| GreggW |
Posted - 09/30/2008 : 01:22:07 AM
Chuck,
This continues to be one of my all time favorite models. It has a very special quality and I cannot help but smell dirt. Really wonderful work.
Gregg |
| MarkF |
Posted - 09/30/2008 : 01:10:15 AM
Chuck, I can't find the words to describe just how incredible your modeling is. I've enjoyed watching this progress over the months, and to see it finished is so amazing! The detail, the weathering, it's all so amazing! You are a true artist!!! The only bad thing about this is that it's over.  I've always looked foward to seeing more pictures. I do hope that you will share your next project with us in the same manner.
Thanks for allowing us to follow along and I look foward to the next one! |
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