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 Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
MikeC Posted - 07/23/2004 : 10:47:32 PM
Edit, 7/26: This topic was originally posted as a "daily Crew Lounge" discussion starter. At the suggestion of several members, I have moved it here to the Craftsman's Corner area of the forum. Please feel free to continue adding your weathering tips and techniques (and photos of same).

Edit, 7/24: This topic has drawn some excellent comments as well as suggestions for weathering and detailing. So I changed the original topic title (from "Late Evening: Weather or Not") and made the topic "sticky." Hopefully, other members will contribute to the discussion also in the days to come.

Well, good evening, guys. I thought I'd open up the lounge this evening. Russ has brought a new postcard for all of us to admire, and it's a beauty, too.

So pour yourself a cold one (or a hot one) of whatever you like and vist for a few minutes.

Here's something I've been wondering about... Over the last year or two on various forums, I've followed discussions about weathering equipment and structures. Invariably, someone will say he/she doesn't weather anything because he/she's afraid of screwing up and making a mess of an otherwise good model. And then someone will post a statement to the effect that most model weathering is overdone and never looks right anyway, so why bother. And so forth.

So here's the question: Weathering... yay or nay? Pros? Cons? How does the RR-L Crew feel about the subject? And do you have any "special" techniques or tips to pass on if you do weather your stuff?

What do you think?
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Empire of the Air Posted - 11/12/2015 : 1:13:58 PM
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

But the anti-algae seems to also be associated with drainage or leaching from the nails, too.

dave



Dave,

You are absolutely right. If galvanized nails were used, the zinc in the galvanizing compound could retard algae growth as well.

Regards,
Wallace
thayer Posted - 11/11/2015 : 11:33:31 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Empire of the Air

Pine is an "allelopathic" plant, meaning that it produces biochemicals that can inhibit growth in other organisms.



Thanks Wallace!

Something fascinating and new to bury in the brain.

FWIW, I am just guessing that the siding is pine.

Thayer
deemery Posted - 11/11/2015 : 7:40:36 PM
But the anti-algae seems to also be associated with drainage or leaching from the nails, too.

dave
Empire of the Air Posted - 11/11/2015 : 7:14:58 PM
Pine is an "allelopathic" plant, meaning that it produces biochemicals that can inhibit growth in other organisms. Since the algae in the photo is not present around the knots and nailholes, it is likely the result of pine tar(sap) concentrations. Even after kiln drying, pine can contain a lot of sap.

A lot of folks use pine straw as a mulch and wonder why after a few years the mulched plants start to decline. It's for the same reason, the chemicals are found in all parts of the plant.

Regards,
Wallace
thayer Posted - 11/11/2015 : 12:30:03 AM
While raking/blowing autumn leaves this afternoon, I noticed a subtle variation within the algae growth on the north wall of our garden shed.

I found it particularly interesting that the nail lines and knots in the pine boards are showing evidence of a natural algaecide or some other resist that is restricting its growth.

While few might attempt to replicate this effect, it does show the value of documenting real life for later reference.

KCS Trains Posted - 03/16/2014 : 9:19:38 PM
I'm new to the forum, but found a great and inexpensive way to weather track. I found a youtube from Joey Ricard with Trackside Scenery.

1. Spray your track with flat black and let sit overnight.
2. Take acrylic paint (suede or Americana Oyster) and paint the ties.
3. Make a mixture of rust powder and alcohol which is the consistency of spaghetti sauce and paint the rails. It will look like this.



[b]Download Attachment:

4. Don't worry - it doesn't look good, but the next step brings it all together.

5. Take black chalk and a big brush and brush on the black powder liberally. The results are amazing.

[b]Download Attachment:

I hope you enjoy.

Phil
LynnB Posted - 01/19/2014 : 2:50:51 PM
Looks great.
deemery Posted - 01/19/2014 : 2:29:59 PM
This was weathered with Pan Pastels and MIG pigments, mostly light gray and beige, with a bit of darker brown:

I used "Colour Shapers" to get the vertical streaking. These are basically "rubber tipped paint brushes" http://www.colourshaper.com

dave
Pennman Posted - 12/23/2013 : 10:06:41 PM
Michael,

Thanks for the info on the Pan Pastels. I do have Roger Malakowski's DVD of how he demonstrates the use of the pan pastels, but haven't had a chance to view it yet. Also, after the upcoming Holiday's, my thought is to buy some of them. I would probably have use for the earthy-toned ones more.
I spend quite too much time trying to search for information rather than modeling, so my New Years resolution will be less time on the computer, and more time at the bench.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you and yours.

Rich
silveradonorthern Posted - 12/23/2013 : 2:52:52 PM
Hi Rich,
Here is a link to my color samples.

http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40268&whichpage=2

I forgot to add this to my last post
silveradonorthern Posted - 12/23/2013 : 2:34:36 PM
Hi Rich,

You wrote: Next up, was going to use a thinned wash with floquil earth and thinner, but I am thinking to forget the floquil altogether, as the dried walls will be too flammable with all of the floquil paints and thinner applied.

I wouldn't be TOO concerned about flammability as once the solvents dry/evaporate, the wood wouldn't be any more flammable than plain wood. I'm not sure the effect your after (maybe you could post a picture)but I think Pan Pastels might work well for you. They have a four color range (light to dark) called Chromate Oxide Green. Numbers: 660.8 Chromate Oxide Green Tint, 660.5 Chromate Oxide Green, 660.3 Chromate Oxide Green Shade & 660.1 Chromate Oxide Green Extra Dark. I also like 680.3 Bright Yellow Green Shade. I posted some color samples in my "Geoff Nott Memorial" thread. I wasn't trying so much for a faded paint look when I did these samples but I know they could be used as such.

Hope this helps.
Pennman Posted - 12/22/2013 : 11:45:38 AM
quote:
Originally posted by visman48

Rich,
Is the effect you are trying to achieve, chipped paint or wood that has color but not the chipped effect? If you have followed Bretts technique and instructions you have set the base for everything to follow, be it mineral spirits and acrylic paint, the hairspray and paint to chipping, or the rock salt rubber cement method, the under color is as critical as the over color.

Les


Les,
The effect I'm trying for is just faded paint. I guess i will continue to see if it works. Thanks for the reply.

Rich
visman48 Posted - 12/22/2013 : 11:41:16 AM
Rich,
Is the effect you are trying to achieve, chipped paint or wood that has color but not the chipped effect? If you have followed Bretts technique and instructions you have set the base for everything to follow, be it mineral spirits and acrylic paint, the hairspray and paint to chipping, or the rock salt rubber cement method, the under color is as critical as the over color.

Les
Pennman Posted - 12/22/2013 : 11:33:43 AM
Hi folks,

I'm not sure if this is the place to post my question, but here goes:

I have seen many builds on painting and weathering, and many great results. As an example, I have noticed that some of you achieve a thinned-down look to an older structure, with a topcoat of faded, light green paint. I see light shades of earth and browns through the top coat paint, but am wondering what to use to achieve similar results.
I have stained my clapboard with A & I, then with grime & floquil thinner, per Brett's instructions. Next up, was going to use a thinned wash with floquil earth and thinner, but I am thinking to forget the floquil altogether, as the dried walls will be too flammable with all of the floquil paints and thinner applied. Do I use acrylic washes, or stick with the floquil paints? Any suggestions?

Rich
kebmo Posted - 07/16/2013 : 10:15:05 PM
was this thread a sticky that came unstuck? great info here. it's a shame to let it get buried.

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