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 Building Quincy Salvage: Part 2
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ANo10
Fireman

USA
2773 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2005 :  10:41:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks as if everone is moving right along. I've finished the stripwood staining and have painted the basecoat on a couple of the larger castings.

Rich,I used Grimy Black on one of the junk piles, but not as heavy of a coat. Yours looks good. May have to rethink about a heavier coat.

Bud, thanks for the heads up on the template and frame up. I'm either starting that section today or putting tootpicks in castings.

Nelson, I also use acrylics and do not have many Floquil paints. Hopefully Dave's web site will have what you want.


Jim
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Dave Grassing
Engine Wiper

United Kingdom
159 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2005 :  3:35:25 PM  Show Profile  Visit Dave Grassing's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hello Nelson
I have just had a look at The Sidings Tamworth's site he has most of the Floquil colours in stock
Dave UK
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RichBeau
Fireman

USA
2487 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2005 :  4:32:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit RichBeau's Homepage  Reply with Quote
For those of you reading along wondering what this kit is like or have never done one of the Sierra West kits here's an eye-opener...


The first floor of Quincy's barn is created by framing out the walls and then adding the siding. This technique is very much like one would do to scatch-build a structure. The other technique would be to place the siding on a cardboard "wall" - that happens on the second floor of the barn.

Well I'm off to distress and paint some siding which I'll add it to these fames.

--Rich

Edited by - RichBeau on 07/26/2005 4:32:52 PM
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nalmeida
Fireman

Portugal
1964 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2005 :  8:12:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tip Dave, I already emailed them asking if they ship to Portugal. Thanks once again.

Rich, love that wip picture.

My Modelling Table
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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  10:57:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit MikeC's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This is my update, such as it is. I finally finished staining and scribing all of the stripwood yesterday afternoon. It was slow going since I was doing it piece by piece and was trying to achieve a specific appearance. But now I'm ready to move on. The three pieces on the left are from Bag 1 ("barn"). The red stained boards are from Bag 3 ("shed"). The pieces on the right are from Bag 5 and are representative of all the rest of the wood in Bags 2, 4, and 5.



Now where are those castings.....


Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.


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Bbags
Administrator

USA
12561 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  4:27:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by olmacguy

Warning: this text will be confusing unless you are building this kit.

I have been working on the framing for front wall and if you haven't done that yet, I thought I might give you a heads-up about something I ran into. The instructions call for laying down the 1/16" square base boards labeled "A" first. Then cut and glue to the base the 1/16" square studs "B" next followed by the 1/16" x 1/8" cap board "C". With my template, if I had followed that sequence, my wall would have been taller than the template because the width of the cap board on the template is thinner than the actual thickness of the 1/8" board. The strip wood is correct because it does measure 1/16" x 1/8" but the cap board on the template measures only 3/32" wide (1/32" shorter that 1/8"). In my case, I don't know if the taller walls would have created a problem later but I didn't want to take the chance. I assumed the height of the template is the correct height of the front wall so I placed the 1/16" x 1/8" cap board on the template so it fit within the height of the front wall. I then cut the 1/16" studs to fit between the base and the cap. This meant that the studs were just a little shorter (1/32") than if I had cut them to match the length shown on the template.

Sorry, it took so many words to describe this. I think if you match the various strip wood to the template, you will see what I am referring to unless your template is different from mine. Let me know how you handle this.

Bud



Hi guys,
I just returned from a short vacation and see that good work is in progress.

I am not sure about the problem mentioned by Bud since it has been quite a while since I constructed the walls for the barn.
However whatever I did worked since the walls are all together and everything fits fine.

Keep up the good work and I will be joining you soon at this rate.

Pat,
On Brett's web site he used to have instructions for painting the different castings but I am not sure if they are still there.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.
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RichBeau
Fireman

USA
2487 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  4:38:41 PM  Show Profile  Visit RichBeau's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Well the lower walls are together. I took a bit of artistic license and placed my horizontal boards a bit differently then Brett suggested.

In fact I was thinking if I ever do this kit again I may attach the upper walls to the lower frames and then apply all of the boards vertically or at least most.

Here's what they look like at the moment...


I added a bit of green paint to the front door siding area and put a light A&I wash on all of the walls - inside and out.

Here's a closer look...


The inside walls are pretty nice I think I'll leave my doors open - which means I need to dig up some details [:-dopey]
--Rich
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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  5:33:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit MikeC's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You're moving right along, Rich. It's looking good.

I haven't decided whether to have the doors opened or closed. Sometimes I leave them slightly cracked to suggest "activity" around and inside the structure. But I don't know yet.....

I just started staining the shingles and am waiting for the first coat to dry. I'm doing them the same way I did the shingles for the RRC welding shop.



Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.


Visit the Central Missouri & Southern
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olmacguy
Engine Wiper

USA
229 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  10:11:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit olmacguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Rich,
You are setting strong pace, I can see now that I will be dragging up the rear. I am still working on framing and you already have all four lower walls completed. Might as well get my old bandana out since I am going to be riding drag on this roundup.

I assume the color in the second closeup picture is more accurate? Is that right? I like the coloration in the closeup. I agree about leaving the door open. I had already decided I wanted the interior to show and I also want to light the interior.

Mike,
Your siding looks terrific. Can't wait to see how the finished walls look.

At the rate I'm going, I might have pictures next week. Late next week.

Bud
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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  11:49:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit MikeC's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bud, if anyone is riding drag, it's probably me. I probably won't get to the actual assembly stage until sometime next week. But I did drag out the old Play-doh logs this evening and got all of the resin castings drilled and toothpicked. I also got the large junk piles primed (I used oversprays of both Grimy Black and Rail Tie Brown), and I finished the shingles this afternoon. So once I have all the castings painted, I'll start framing the barn.


Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.


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ANo10
Fireman

USA
2773 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2005 :  12:22:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rich, I like the color of the siding in the second picture. Excellent job of weathering and distressing the planks.

Well Bud, I guess I'll join you on the drag for this roundup. I cut my scale lumber for the frame up and spent the rest of the afternoon hunting for my roll of wax paper. [:-banghead] I did cut a saltine cracker sack up and taped it down.[:-bigeyes]
Looks as if I'll have to bite the bullet and drive the 45 miles into town for a new roll.

During the wax paper hunt, I did run across "Scrapiron", a dog from the WS set of cats/dogs. Every junkyard needs a junkyard dog.

Glad to see everyone making progress. Keep up the good work.

Jim

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SteveW
Engine Wiper

USA
460 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2005 :  12:50:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fear not about bringing up the rear! I'm sure that if you look way behind, you will see me stumbling along at a snails pace. All that dust makes great weathering! I have the wood stained and some of the other preliminaries done, but not much more. Tonight I intend to continue fiddling with the castings and possibibly start putting grain into the stripwood. Hopefully (if the boss doesn't have other ideas[:-censored]) I get rolling this weekend.
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Wally
Engine Wiper

USA
380 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2005 :  12:58:28 AM  Show Profile  Visit Wally's Homepage  Send Wally an AOL message  Send Wally an ICQ Message  Click to see Wally's MSN Messenger address  Send Wally a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Hi all - Yes, I still lurk even if the house keeps me alway.

I couldn't resist sticking my head in. I bought a house a few months back and have been busy with 1:1 remodeling problems. The workbench has its place upstairs with most of my moeling stuff on it. It is next to a whole empty half of the upstairs as yet unfinished. Wonder what that could be? My first prject RRC ended with all the buildings finished but I still need to landscape when I find the box and get it upacked.

I know where Q is so this might be a good thread for me to check back in on. As long as I can keep clear the difference in laying 1:1 wood flooring in the den and the slightly smaller details here.

Before y'all get beyond strip wood let me bring something up that has been on my mind since one of Mic flyers. Brett's stain formula colors both sides equally. Mic and others pointed out tha the inside of a build is never or at least very rarely weathered the same as the outside. Any thoughts on a process to make an outside and inside wall color for Quincey's?

Wally
It's not my job to run the train, the whistle I can't blow, I'm not allowed to say how fast the train should go,I'm not allowed to blow off steam, nor even ring the bell, but let the gosh darn thing jump the tracks and see who catches...
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RichBeau
Fireman

USA
2487 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2005 :  06:03:11 AM  Show Profile  Visit RichBeau's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes, I'm moving right along. I don't have a lot on my plate right now. Most of my articles and stuff are "in the can" awaiting publication. I do need to start preparing for the upcoming fall travel season and a new edition of our book. But mostly it's because I like to build structures...wait till the details start, I'll slow down

I'm taking the photos with a camera mounted on a tripod using the available lighting in the room. There's a bunch of incandescent lights (there's a pole lamp I can move around a table lamp and an overhead), the fluorescent on the magnifying light, and some natural light from the window. I know I'm not controlling the lighting very well, at some point I'll break down and purchase a proper set of lights to take photos. I'd really rather spend my cash on my other project...a Free-mo module but that's another story (I'll start posting on that soon). Anyways the short of it is, yes the lower photo is a better representation of the color.

Wally: The close-up photo shows the interior and exterior of the barn note the difference in color. I don't have any experience with the other Sierra West kits as this is my first but Brett's technique, at least with this kit, has a definite variation in color from inside to outside.

Thanks for the good word folks.
--Rich
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sierrawest
Engine Wiper

273 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2005 :  08:13:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit sierrawest's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You guys are moving right along and it is great fun to read and see the progress. What I see so far is looking mighty fine! In reference to Wally's comment about the differing appearance between the inside and outside of walls: I have found in an HO scale structure like Quincy's where a view of the interior is mostly hidden (even if the doors are left open) modeling this color difference in a prototypical manner yields little results. In order to actually note a difference the color shift would have to be dramatic and way off the reality scale! Now in a structure where the interior is more plainly visible (or in a larger scale) say through big windows or doors, this might be a worthwhile expenditure of time. In any case the reddish color of the exterior will differ from the natural stained color of the interior.

Thanks for the fun!
Brett
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