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 Signs For Structures
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k27rgs
Fireman

Australia
5005 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2005 :  10:19:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great posters, especially Bogart..... thanks guys.

"Here's looking at you kid"


[:-snorkel]

Mario Rapinett

http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_karl_osolinski-_revisited1.html
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jmarksbery
New Hire

USA
16 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2005 :  8:01:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
[:-banghead]If I may butt in here and give a little how I do signs that look great. Now to do regular signs that are to look like tinplate signs just print them out on regular paper and cut them out. But if the sign has an outer color, lets say black, after it is cut out take a marker and go around the outer edge to cover the white, if another color use a color close to the signs color. If you are making a bill board and are dating it all the older billboards were painted a dark green, I use hunters green it seems to be close. In those days they thought it went with the enviroment better, you older folks will remember that. Now for my painted on look that works very well, use TYPING PAPER. That's right, it is already thin and you can sand it on the back to make it even thinner. If sanding, before cutting out start about center of the sign on the back side and sand in one direction outward till you get it the way you want. If you sand through don't worry about it as it makes it look like a worn sign that is pealing off. Cut with a sharp knife or if your good with siccors go for it. Know where you want it to go and use Elmers glue on the back side and glue it in place. Now, I do them like you would a dry transfer a place a thin paper over it and burnish with a dull lead pencil to work it into the wood, stone or brick. Look to see if it is looking the way you expect, if not burnish some more before it drys. BEFORE you do anything else let it dry and then give it a coat of flat finish clear or Dulcote. Let it dry well. Looks good huh? After it has dried you can weather it anyway you see fit as the clear protects it from bleeding or fading. I hope this helps you guys and it you need more help just let me know. I have a cd with over 2500 signs on it and I also make signs to order if you want more information e-mail me at jmarksbery@aol.com [:-bigeyes]

Download Attachment: 2GUYZ SIGN.jpg
23.81 KB
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slimjerkins
Fireman

USA
1283 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  09:48:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim-

Thanks for posting your techniques on sign application. Since there hasn't been alot of "how-to" discussion in this thread I was beginning to think it was a big secret.

Regarding typing paper. . . I'll have to give it a try. I've had some strange results when mixing brands of papers and inks. Some papers have a lot of "gain" - like what a felt tip marker does to a piece of Kleenex tissue. Others can do just the opposite - they never absorb and just bead up on top.

And thanks for mentioning the marker along the edge trick - a throwback from when "cut and paste" was literally cut and paste.
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Tabooma County Rwy
Fireman

USA
4391 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  11:02:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have found that using "Airmail" paper (remember that?), I don't have to sand the signs thinner - it is very thin paper to start. I use it with a home inkjet printer with no problems. I use regular strength white glue to affix it to the structure, then burnish as Jim said. I wrote an article on this technique that appeared in a Railroad Model Craftsman issue last year, prior to the NMRA convention here in Seattle (can't remember the month off hand). Anyway, if you can find some airmail paper, give it a try. It is also known as 9 pound paper (typing paper is about 20 pound, I believe).
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Tombanjo
Engine Wiper

USA
276 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  11:34:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim,
Those are some great suggestions/methods. I hadn't thought of the Dull Coat layer and I've been wrestling with my signs getting a little too 'weathered' because they aren't protected. One item I haven't really succeeded in to my satisfaction if the sanding thin, I'm always worries I've gone too far and end up not going far enough. How thing to people go, what signs do yuo key off when sanding...just about breaking through the other side?

Dave
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slimjerkins
Fireman

USA
1283 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  12:04:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
BEFORE you do anything else let it dry and then give it a coat of flat finish clear or Dulcote. Let it dry well. Looks good huh? After it has dried you can weather it anyway you see fit as the clear protects it from bleeding or fading.


Doesn't A&I react with Dullcote?
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postalkarl
Fireman

6742 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  12:53:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Slim:

Yes it does.

Karl S.
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Peterpools
Engineer

USA
12335 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  6:56:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit Peterpools's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys
Slim and Karl S are correct. If you use A & I over Dullcoat, you get a hazy, dull gray color completely covering the sign. Not the way to go.
[:-kitty]
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leeflan
Fireman

USA
2128 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  7:13:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
[:-jump2]
quote:
Originally posted by Peterpools

If you use A & I over Dullcoat, you get a hazy, dull gray color completely covering the sign. Not the way to go.
[:-kitty]


Too true, too true. I cried when I spilled some A&I on a P2K SW7 detailed and lettereed for my Georgia Southern RR.[:-bigmouth][:-cry][:-weepn] The white "fuzz" showed up everywhere the A&I went.[:-banghead] I kept it on my orphan shelf for years until I read in the 2004 (?) MRP that if you respray Dullcote over the white stuff, it will disappear. I tried it and it worked.[:-bigeyes]
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Peterpools
Engineer

USA
12335 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  7:32:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit Peterpools's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi All
A few more movie classics
[:-kitty]







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Tombanjo
Engine Wiper

USA
276 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2005 :  8:27:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I actually used that Dull Coat/Alcohol reation to my advantage once on a red grain elevator...I guess the alcohol brings the talcum out of the dullcoat?. Anyway I dullcoated the structure after painting, then hit it with a mist of alcohol. Made it look like sunbleached paint. I'd post pix, but I no longer have the model.

Dave
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jmarksbery
New Hire

USA
16 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2005 :  12:42:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gentlemen, I don't know what you are doing wrong on your signs except to say if you put dulcote on heavy and then use A/I it will haze up as the bottom layer is not totaly dry. I have never had a hazing problem. But then I don not over cover with dull coat. Below is a sign I just did with my method and all it has is dulcote and A/I, I have not applied any other weathering yet.
(forgot to mention I do N-Scale,also another coat of dullcote was applied after the wash, I use the same technique on the buildings)

Download Attachment: MVC-009F.JPG
81.44 KB

Edited by - jmarksbery on 07/26/2005 11:16:28 AM
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leeflan
Fireman

USA
2128 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2005 :  11:05:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here'a another Classic Signs sheet for those who model the 30's.


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NBandS
Section Hand

USA
94 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2005 :  12:21:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Higher resolution version available upon request

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angelanzus
Engine Wiper

USA
375 Posts

Posted - 07/29/2005 :  1:30:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What a wonderful selection of signs. Keep them coming guys. I believe you can never have too many to choose from. Thank you all too for the tips on sticking the signs on etc.
I am looking for a vertical sign like a Coca Cola or similar to go on the outside of my soda shoppe/drug store. I model in O scale and in the 1950's era. Its a place between the big windows of the soda shoppe and the door. Anything special out there you can post?
Angela
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