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RyanAK
Engine Wiper

USA
302 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2020 :  09:59:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Holy cow, this stuff is interesting! Thanks for starting this thread, Dave. And 'Faire to Midland', thanks for joining the conversation. Great contributions.

It's really enjoyable to spend time with such excellent modelers that groove on the research as much as I do. I'm learning a lot. Thanks all!

R
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8266 Posts

Posted - 02/22/2020 :  08:35:46 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's a nice illustrated/narrated discussion of the 1860s original oil region, with some great photos. It discusses efforts to find those old wells to make sure they're not currently leaking. https://netl.doe.gov/node/9367 (I got an error trying this on Firefox, certificate issue I think. It worked fine on Safari, and they recommend Chrome, but I can't speak to how well it works on Chrome or on a Microsoft browser...)

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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Bernd
Fireman

USA
3545 Posts

Posted - 02/22/2020 :  9:23:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Works ok in Windows Edge.

Bernd

WWG1WGA
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8266 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  1:23:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My current modeling challenge is figuring out how to do 3 crude oil stills, based on these pictures and the specs for my prototype. That calls for 10' x 34' stills, the photos here are a bit larger (because they're 1910 vintage, vs my 1890s vintage.)

The still tanks:


Stills installed, note the firebrick covering the bottom half, but with the ends exposed.

(The top right is a "cheesebox" older style still. I'll do one of those, It's a lot easier to scratchbuild a single unit than 3 identical units )

And a drawing of a still:


Anyone have any good thoughts on modeling these? I was thinking about using HO tank cars, but the tanks are too small. I'm not sure of a source for S scale tank cars (that I could afford...)

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 03/01/2020 1:40:55 PM
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Faire to Midland
New Hire

USA
26 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  3:19:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My first thought was Plastruct elliptical domes, but they just don't come in the right size.

Have you looked at any On30 tanks?

It may be easiest to have a turning made?

Just thinking out loud.
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5552 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  4:16:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's going to be quite a project.
Good luck. It's an idle project for 3D printing.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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RyanAK
Engine Wiper

USA
302 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  4:17:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Have a friend with a lathe? Then detail out the turning.

Looks like Faire had the right idea.
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Bernd
Fireman

USA
3545 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  4:35:39 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If my math is correct the HO scale diameter would be 1.997". I think a 2" diameter hard wood dowel should do the trick.

Bernd

WWG1WGA
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8266 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  5:06:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The drawing is a bit larger than the ones I'm going for, which are 1.37" in diameter. But yeah, a dowel or piece of PVC pipe is probably my starting point. Maybe I can learn 3D printing to do the ends.

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5552 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  5:27:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's going to be quite a project.
Good luck. It's an idle project for 3D printing.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6122 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  7:25:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Find a campaign button in the right size.

Edited by - Michael Hohn on 03/01/2020 7:26:49 PM
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BurleyJim
Fireman

USA
5301 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2020 :  10:54:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Draw up exactly what you need for the end caps, and I'll print 'em. Then, you could put them next to those bridge parts I made for you about 3 years ago. . Dimensions in mm. Also, the dome cap. I can't read the values on your diagram. Will need the I.D. of the tube you will use, the wall thickness, the outside diameter of the tube, and the outer radius of the spherical outer surface. Same set for the dome.



Jim


Take the red pill

Edited by - BurleyJim on 03/02/2020 12:11:46 AM
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8266 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2020 :  4:07:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've started serious planning on the refinery. The area for this is about 8" deep (max) x 7' long, which is enough space to get most of what is needed. I'm going to build this on a piece of foam on top of plywood off the layout, enter it into an NMRA contest, and then install it. At least that's the plan :-). I'm following very closely specs and layout for refineries in Warren PA area around 1895-1898.

Here's the main part, showing the stills, condensers, agitator, bleachers and 1 of the many tanks.

The flow is left-to-right, I'll need tanks for crude storage to the left. Then through the stills, etc, to the storage tanks (not shown) to the right. There'll also be a bottling building for loading the refined product into barrels, and loading/unloading rack for tank cars. You can see the lead for the spur at the bottom of the photo.

Although this is more modern than my 1890s prototype, this shows the look I'm aiming for: (A Shorpy photo)


dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8266 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2020 :  7:37:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today's project is starting on the rectangular condenser boxes. These were assembled from iron sheets riveted together. I found a good source for brick piers to put them on. My condensers will be 40' long, 12' wide and 8' tall. Photos tomorrow, after I finish assembling the basic boxes. The iron sheets overlap, so I'll laminate appropriately sized pieces of .020 over the box (built from .040), and then finish the corners. Next comes a very large number of rivet strips on the joints. I'm sure I'll run out and have to reorder Archer or Micro Mark rivets (I have 3 identical condensers to build. The 4th condenser I'll do differently as a vertical coil, just for variety's sake.)

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8266 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2020 :  7:17:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Two of the 3 box condensers are built. I need to do some patching/gap filling. Then I'll prime with gloss paint, apply Archer rivet decals, then paint the final color.

There's nothing special about that black styrene, it's just that the sheet of .040 I got from the plastics dealer was black. The rest of this is .020 styrene.

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 03/24/2020 7:17:44 PM
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