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George D
Moderator

USA
16077 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2019 :  10:09:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks good, Dave. That's good info in your step-by-step.

George
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masonamerican
Fireman

Sweden
1759 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2019 :  4:25:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That looks very nice Dave! I agree that the canvas looks very natural

Håkan
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2019 :  7:04:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by George D

Looks good, Dave. That's good info in your step-by-step.

George



Glad you're finding value in the posts. One advantage of 19th century modeling is that it's so easy to scratch-build freight cars.

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/13/2019 :  6:37:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Continued progress on the assembly line. The furthest back has door hardware. It needs roofwalk supports and roofwalk, plus brake shaft, etc. Next closer has siding (I want that to dry overnight before I paint it, to prevent warping.) Two new cars I started today in front, one has bolsters and queenposts, and the closest car just has its box assembled.


dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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bartatw
New Hire

USA
2 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2019 :  10:41:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, The pictures are super helpful. Maybe I missed it, but where did you get your bolsters and trucks?
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hon3_rr
Fireman

USA
7237 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2019 :  12:46:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I too concur that the pics are of great value. Great to follow this thread and see how you put these things together. I'm picking up a few ideas from this thread, so keep it coming.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2019 :  3:45:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bolsters are old "Colonial Castings" products. I ran out of those, and will be using some from Bitter Creek https://bittercreekmodels.com/page5.html#BODYBOLSTERS (B-1137A are a close match. But I'm using B-119, because that's what I have in stock.) The trucks are from Shapeways, "Cleveland Pattern" by Panamint: https://www.shapeways.com/product/CNC5PCZWX/hot71s-x4-short-cleveland-archbar-truck-1870-90

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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SAFN SAAP
Engine Wiper

USA
436 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  12:35:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Congratulations! It's all your fault. You got me so hooked on these little 28 footers that I just had to build some myself. I've got four frames being assembled as we speak. All SP and their predecessors. You do nice work. Looks great! Keep it up! Watching with enthusiasm.

Levi
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  08:44:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Post some photos, Levi!

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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hon3_rr
Fireman

USA
7237 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  1:54:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Interesting links Dave, thanks for sharing. I spent a couple of hours really studying the product lines of the mfgs. as well as reviewing their links.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  2:35:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Those metal bolsters add some needed weight on open cars (flats/gons.)

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  5:09:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Work has slowed a bit, but I'm still making progress. Car #1 is still missing its roofwalk and brake shaft. I decided to add airbrakes, so all cars got the smaller 8x8 casting from Grandt Line (New York/narrow gauge) brake sets. Car #2 got its roof and doors today, I need to do the grab irons, and it'll be caught up with Car #1. I'm trying to figure out a better way to paint/prepare a significant number of grabirons. (Sticking them into styrofoam hasn't worked as well as I thought.) Car #3 and #4 got their undercarriages painted (airbrush), and car #3 got its end sheathing. That takes a lot of clamps, and I want the glue to dry thoroughly before removing them. So progress on car #4 is stalled until I get the clamps back to do the ends. When I get car #4 done, I'm thinking about stopping, doing better drawings, and then preparing an article on this. I'll use the next batch for the article's photos. I'd like to get a dozen of these constructed. And then I'll need to think about decals for them.

And if there's something more frustrating than having parts fly off tweezers, I DO NOT what to know. I probably couldn't handle it!

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 11/17/2019 5:13:18 PM
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SAFN SAAP
Engine Wiper

USA
436 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  6:04:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Dave,

First, I would like to congratulate you on jobs well done with your 28 footers. You are doing a really nice job on them. I too appreciate the use of metal bolsters as they put weight right over the truck centers. Now it may not be much but it does help with stability as the cars travel. Wooden bolsters have a tendency to split at times. But the metal does the job. I choose not to tap mine, but rather drill them out and then insert a 1/8" Evergreen 224 Tube into them, because a 2-56 auto cuts the plastic and holds well.

Humbly, I am posting up the frames I've built at this time. I'm letting the glue really set up and then I will sanding seal after masking off the sides, and roof top. I'm wasn't a fan of these 28' cars until I saw your post and then the it hit me and I had to make them. Two will be for the Oregon & California, while the other two are for the Southern Pacific. If I can find out data on a Central Pacific version, and can modify a Cloverhouse Dry Transfer set, I will. I have a Trout Creek AT&SF 28' coming, which I purchased just for the decal set. It isn't available anywhere so I'll have an AT&SF version soon too. These, outside of the MOW cars I have to rebuild, will be the smallest of my fleet.

Thank you kindly for allowing me to post here. I will not monopolize your thread. This is your show. I appreciate your kindness in allowing me to post some pictures. Thank you very much.

Again, nice job on your models.

Levi











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deemery
Fireman

USA
8436 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  7:47:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Levi, your cars look great!!

Here are some more photos from my build. The first shows the styrene "washer" I use on one end of the monofilament that forms the truss rods. The holes through the wood undercarriage are large (#67), to make it easy to fish the mono and to provide a place for the mono to 'bend'. The washer is drilled #78, the mono I'm using (10 lb test) will fit in #79, but with the knot, #78 is small enough to form a good hold.


Look carefully at the bottom right truss rod hole, you'll see a small white dot that is a piece of styrene tubing. I use that to plug the last hole, trapping the end of the (stretched) truss rod. That gets CA'd into place (along with the washer I showed in the previous photo.) The rods sit alongside the queenposts, once the glue dries, I stretch them a bit to fit on the queenposts.


In period prototype photos, all you can see is 'brake cylinder' and some random rodding. So this is sufficient to simulate the brake running gear from the normal viewing angle.


Here's the set of jigs. The better your jigs are, the better your model will be. Make sure the jigs are big enough to easily hold in place. The top left jig is for the truss rods through the undercarriage, the others are for (left to right) truss rod ends, left vertical grab, right horizontal grab, end grabiron ladder.


dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6363 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2019 :  11:10:39 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
A plethora of 28-footers. They all look good, guys.

Mike
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