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 The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley Part two
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2020 :  7:25:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's a good idea Ryan. we'll see. Håkan, Thank you very much. Yes it is so nice to be able to print my own.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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Bernd
Fireman

USA
3545 Posts

Posted - 02/11/2020 :  08:39:09 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hey Bob,

I was out for a stroll and decided to stop by the workshop and see what's going on. Nice job on those flatcars. Interesting projects like your flatcars keeps me inspired to keep "tracking" along with my projects in hopes of getting to build some rolling stock, in brass maybe.

Bernd

WWG1WGA
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2020 :  7:01:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bernd, glad you stopped by and glad you enjoyed the visit. I appreciate that you find my humble effort encouraging.

I started some more flatcars. These are 30' Detroit Flats as used by the V&T. Kit #3114 by Rio Grande Models. I built them my way. That means I added all the detail parts before assembling the frame components and used Nylon fishing line for the trust rods instead of brass wire. I thought that I would share a picture of the naked frame with all their parts showing before I add the decks.





Bob

It's only make-believe
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deemery
Fireman

USA
8265 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2020 :  7:16:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How do you anchor the nylon truss rods?

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2020 :  7:46:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

How do you anchor the nylon truss rods?

dave


Dave, beneath the body bolster there is a frame stud. I just drilled a .020" hole (the nylon line is about 0.016")and secured it with ACC. I put the lines in before adding the needle beams. After "threading" the turnbuckles I threaded the lines through those holes centering the turnbuckles, added the ACC and pulled the line tight until the glue set. Once the glue sets I added the needle point beams and the line gets nice and tight.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6120 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2020 :  11:13:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Smart way to do it.
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2020 :  12:58:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Michael Hohn

Smart way to do it.



Thank you Mike

It's only make-believe
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Bill Gill
Fireman

USA
2965 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2020 :  07:41:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, I also use ACC to glue the ends of nylon truss rods to underframes, which have been plastic or white metal and haven't had any break lose.
I lightly sand the fishing line with fine grit paper except for the short stretch in the middle that will be visible in the center of th turnbuckles. I think the roughened line helps glue and paint adhere.
I don't pull the fishing line very tight after having the plastic frame warp on one flat car, just snug enough to stay straight. None have gotten slack.

Edited by - Bill Gill on 02/13/2020 07:43:26 AM
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6120 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2020 :  09:05:16 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I did that with a set of cars I was building with styrene and ended up with cars with a hump in the center. I let out a humpback wail.

Mike
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2020 :  5:42:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I don't pull the line THAT tight Guys. Just snug.

I prepared the Central Pacific cars for painting;


Here are the painted and re-assembled trucks


And the finished cars;


I finished assembly of the two V&T Detroit flats;


These are Rio Grande Models kits (a two for one kit) and they are well designed and went together well but the instructions are flawed. The biggest problem was mounting the coupler blocks. I first mounted them on top of the frame which meant the couplers were too low and also interfered with the trucks. So I had to remove the blocks, shorten them so the couplers mount at the right depth from the end of the car, remove two of the frame beams and glue the blocks to the bottom of the deck. And, amazingly, the coupler are the right height and don't interfere with the trucks.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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OK Hogger
Crew Chief

867 Posts

Posted - 02/18/2020 :  09:39:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What a nice fleet of cars you're amassing/constructing there, Bob!

Andre
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6120 Posts

Posted - 02/18/2020 :  2:32:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bob, Very nice!! Are you going to letter them all for your own RR?

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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/18/2020 :  7:16:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Andre, Mike Thank you!
The Detroit cars (w/double pockets) will be for my railroad (representing our newest cars). The CP cars will be lettered for ether the Oregon and California or the Oregonian but I'm being indecisive.

Bob


It's only make-believe
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masonamerican
Fireman

Sweden
1759 Posts

Posted - 02/22/2020 :  03:14:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice flatcars Bob! Smart to build them in a assembly line fashion.

Håkan
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5551 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2020 :  5:38:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank You Håkan.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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