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OK Hogger
Crew Chief
868 Posts |
 Posted - 11/15/2019 : 8:22:00 PM
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Bob:
As you now know, full knee replacement takes a bit of time to get back to "normal". Be sure to conform to any instructions by your Doctor.
Inch by inch it's a cinch!
Andre |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/01/2019 : 2:12:51 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by OK Hogger
Bob:
As you now know, full knee replacement takes a bit of time to get back to "normal". Be sure to conform to any instructions by your Doctor.
Inch by inch it's a cinch!
Andre
Healing is progressing fine.
I'm up to walking as far as two blocks now and I can already stand longer then before the surgery and I'm doing stairs a bit better. Physical Therapy is ruff but gives immediate benefits. I hope to get into the train room later today.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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Michael Hohn
Fireman
USA
6122 Posts |
Posted - 12/01/2019 : 3:40:19 PM
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/06/2019 : 6:52:58 PM
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Recovery continues smoothly. I'm walking without aids (except in crowds). And I got into the train room! Where I started playing with paint color.
There has always been controversy on how to represent Russia Iron. Graphite has usually been represented by a dark gray-dirty black finish. Now the latest preservationist are using a light gray. So I am confused as to what route to go. I tested two grays and three Gunmetal colors on a prototype boiler.
Here's Engineer's side using a craft paint light gray and American Gunmetal.
On the Fireman's side, Vallejo paints, light blue gray color on smoke box, gunmetal on the first two sections of the boiler and Chain Link on the taper section and the firebox crown.
I could use some help here. what colors look best? Any of you think I should stick with the shade I used on the smokebox of the models in the background?
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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Edited by - railman28 on 12/06/2019 6:56:31 PM |
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deemery
Fireman
USA
8267 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2019 : 09:34:04 AM
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Bob, I'd go with a darker tone, the top photo or maybe a bit darker even. And congrats on the mobility progress!
dave |
Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2019 : 5:36:14 PM
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Thanks Dave, I been told by Historians/restorers that Russian Iron darkened with age. I trying to represent a newer engine. But still maybe it should be darker.
After a day of drying I tested the durability of the paint. The Vallejo did fine but the craft paint came off with masking tape.
I got a better representative of Graphite with a 1:1 mix of Aluminium and black.
Perhaps a picture later.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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deemery
Fireman
USA
8267 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2019 : 5:42:16 PM
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My rationale for 'darker' is (1) it'll look a bit more to "scale", light reflective colors make things look smaller. (2) it'll reflect (no pun intended) light weathering that would tend to make even very shiny metal look darker. (3) I think it looks better :-)
dave |
Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/10/2019 : 10:49:51 PM
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Thanks Dave, I appreciate the feedback. It's very helpful.
My paint trails continue. In addition to getting the colors right I'm testing method and durability of acrylic paints. For most of these test I've been using "craft" paint. I'm finding this it does not adhere to the model strongly. The FUD boiler is primed with Walmart gray primer and masking tape pull the craft paint right off. Vallejo Paint passes the tape test.
This is were I'm at with the boiler colors;
I turned my attention to the frame. From about 1876 Baldwin factory engine color was "wine", another difficult color. Difficult because in low light (like inside a museum) it looks like UPS brown but out in the sun it's a nice off red. I was lead to a good match but in a "craft" line. MRH put out a acrylic paint guild That has a lot of good information in it not only on paint matching but also on how to improve "craft" paint. I hope to try those suggestion to improve this craft paint. Look at this test done on my prototype frame;
I didn't prime the frame first and the first lesson learned is that I need to prime the frame with flat black. With the frame I won't need to do much masking but the cylinders get a lot of handling so the paint needs to be durable. So I think I need to mix some custom paint and see what I get.
Here's them together under the layout's light;
comments please.
My healing continues on course.
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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Michael Hohn
Fireman
USA
6122 Posts |
Posted - 12/10/2019 : 11:17:00 PM
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I picture red to be darker than on the frame. Maybe the photos do not represent the color well.
Mike |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2019 : 12:42:08 AM
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Hi Mike,
This is the color I'm trying to get to.
It's from the Glenbrook.
I think the color will intensify when I spray it on.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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Bernd
Fireman
USA
3545 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2019 : 07:23:08 AM
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Bob,
Following along here with your paint experiment. I often wondered about acrylic paint having good sticking qualities to a plastic like surface.
As far as the color goes, how about a base coat of a reddish brown primer and then the wine color on top of that?
Bernd |
WWG1WGA |
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Bill Gill
Fireman
USA
2965 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2019 : 10:22:33 AM
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Bob, RMC had an article a few years back about using craft acrylics to paint rolling stock. The modeler added a couple artist quality acrylic things by LIQUITEX to make the paint more durable and flow better in an airbrush.
I haven't found that issue yet. What he used may be similar to the MRH information.
I also use craft paints for a lot of my model painting. The flat finish, range of colors and low cost made them a go to source for many projects which have been mostly structures and figures, but also for weathering rolling stock.
One thing I discovered is that the paint takes a LOT longer to cure than it does simply to dry.
Often the paint would easily rub off newly painted items just from very light handling. But a few weeks later the paint adhered much better. I think the additives in the article improved adhesion and may(???) help it cure faster too.
They also added a light sheen to the finish which would be good for the metallic look you need.
The GOLDEN brand of artist acrylics are very high quality. Their website has a number of good short videos for using their acrylic products. You probably can glean some very good tips from them for different mediums to add: https://www.goldenpaints.com/videos
One other thing I tried with good success was repainting a boxcar with craft paints to look like a freshly repainted car. I mixed craft acrylics to match the original color and then, as an experiment, added a squirt of "FUTURE" clear acrylic floor finish to thin it instead of water. There a number of articles for modelers about using "FUTURE" as paint additive. (Now probably under it's millionth renamed status). I brush painted the model and it looks airbrushed. However, at first the finish was very soft and scuffed and scratched when barely touched. I thought I'd messed up. but over time the finish became quite a bit tougher.
original factory paint on left, craft/"FUTURE" brush paint on right.
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Edited by - Bill Gill on 12/11/2019 11:20:18 AM |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2019 : 12:51:35 PM
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Bernd, Thank you, for th good information.
Bill, Thank you, I appreciate the confirmation of the MRH info and that adding a little Future looks very promising.
I do find the acrylic "craft" paints very useful. I have used them on structures and wood freight cars but have been hesitant to use them on plastic or metals.
Thanks again
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5552 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2019 : 4:46:38 PM
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I tried both suggestion here.
From just in front on the 2nd Axle slot to the pilot I primed with Krylon Flat Black and then added the "craft" color. from the 2nd axle to the firebox I added a little Future to the "craft" color.
The color came out deeper. But, when I compare it to the prototype shot above the color needs to be browner.
Also, I've been trying to darken just a little bit the Gun metal but just a little black darkens it too much so I tried a little of a craft color called graphite (to dark to use on my smokebox) and got good results. The boiler section over the firebox is straight gunmetal while the rest of the boiler is the darkened sample.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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brian budeit
New Hire
USA
34 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2019 : 6:20:15 PM
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I've been lurking and learning much from your locomotive construction. For your russia iron boiler jacket, try airbrushing a mix of clear with a little black mixed in. It will darken the finish, and give a sort of depth to the color. Try a sample before shooting the boiler itself. My EBT #3 has a Scalecoat NYC Grey with a touch of B&O blue, oversprayed with the black and clear.
brian b
Download Attachment:  photo #2 rockhill in service (2).JPG
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The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley Part two