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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
 Posted - 07/09/2019 : 10:35:06 PM
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I am building a layout here, I might seem that all I do is build Steam Engines but, their is a modest model railroad being built too.
Here is part one;
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37052
This is the current track plan;
For the last two years I have been focused on build two detailed models of 1870's Moguls that are currently hard at work in 1886. The Girls works hard but are well maintained. I am using the wagon top Moguls of the Virginia and Truckee RR as my prototype drawing heavily from Engine number 4 and 13. In build these two engines I have been relying on 3D drawing and printing on a backbone of conventional model making techniques.
Let the fun continue... |
It's only make-believe
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OK Hogger
Crew Chief
872 Posts |
Posted - 07/09/2019 : 11:42:24 PM
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Hi Bob!
The Sequel, eh? 
In answer to your question you asked in Part 1 about the side rods:
Siderods:
I suppose the printed side rods are oversized, but the detail sure looks nice. The etched side rods will give you more clearance and still look pretty good in the process.
Screws/Bolts:
I'm not able to visualize what those will become in my mind. I will have to wait until you've got some installed so I can actually see the finished parts.
The Moguls look to be quite involved projects!
Andre |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/10/2019 : 12:25:25 PM
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Mike and Andre thanks for the feed back. I appreciate it.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/10/2019 : 5:23:24 PM
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Hagan reminded me that I'm suppose to solder two of the side rods together. So I've now successfully learned to sweat solder. This is how they look now;
Comments?
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/11/2019 : 7:46:58 PM
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Well I guess the photo-etched drive rods didn't get a whole lot of support I went to mime.
You might notice that the far side still has the FUD prototype in place that is because I destroyed the brass one. Had it wrap around the drill as iwas trying to drill out hole for the pin screw.
[:-banghead]
So I've ordered a reprint and will worked on other things while screws and parts show up. So I finished the 3 mm's shaft holder and started machining the cylinders yoke. In the below pictures the blue plastic piece shows how the casting comes and the Brass has been milled. Yes milled. I used my milling machine. I fell sorry for anybody having to do this with fills;
That's all for now guys,
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/15/2019 : 6:51:15 PM
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I just received my pilots from Shapeways. THese wer drawn for me by Håkan Nilssen. He did an excellent job on them.
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It's only make-believe
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OK Hogger
Crew Chief
872 Posts |
Posted - 07/15/2019 : 9:40:43 PM
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Indeed he did! Those look fantastic!
That Håkan guy is pretty salty at this model railroad thing.
Andre |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/17/2019 : 8:09:57 PM
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More on the pilot. A little filling and the cover slides right on. and the coupler cover fits as it should;
Here's the view from the bottom with the FUD prototype frame in place.
The coupler box is going to lose it's ears.
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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Bernd
Fireman
USA
3614 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2019 : 07:45:25 AM
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Bob,
Just discovered this thread. I'll be following along to watch your progress.
Engine is looking good. That's one nice pilot you got there.
Going have to go back and look through Part 1 and catch up.
Bernd |
WWG1WGA |
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OK Hogger
Crew Chief
872 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2019 : 09:42:09 AM
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I missed this in all my activity yesterday!
The pilot looks very good. I assume you'll be using a 2-56 mounting screw? Interested in seeing how you mount the draft gear box.
Andre |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2019 : 12:42:11 PM
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Thank you Bernd and Andre. Yes, 2-56 screws, 3/16" long.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2019 : 3:13:10 PM
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Here's A little more on the pilot coupler.
I used a Kadee #26 with an extended staft at this point. When this engine is fully assembled The coupler i use will most probably be a standard shaft with a high head. to clear the pilot the shaft can get shorter as the coupler head gets higher and it will look better. Here are some pictures;
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It's only make-believe
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Frank Palmer
Fireman
USA
5861 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2019 : 6:05:56 PM
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Very nice Bob. Getting closer now. |
Frank |
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Michael Hohn
Fireman
USA
6363 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2019 : 11:45:01 PM
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| Very nice, Bob. |
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OK Hogger
Crew Chief
872 Posts |
Posted - 07/19/2019 : 12:45:02 AM
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Good work, Bob!
How will the pilot be mounted to the frame?
Inch by inch it's a cinch.
Andre |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
5656 Posts |
Posted - 07/19/2019 : 8:19:18 PM
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Frank, Mike and Andre, Thank you very much.
Inching along I dis-assembled the 3mm model and drilled the remaining mounting holes that will be used to fasten the boiler down and mount the draw bar. I also mounted the drive shaft assembly;
above you can see how the box is mounted to the frame and the tabs and screw that hold the top on. assembled it looks like this;
So it time to solder the pilot to the frame.
First step was to remove the Temporary piece of brass runs between the frame sides and test fit all the pieces.
Then make a jig to hold the brass pieces together while I solder them;
And then solder. and this was the results;
and with a little clean up and assembled with the pilot deck and the cylinder yoke it looks like this;
and that's all for now.
Bob |
It's only make-believe
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Edited by - railman28 on 07/19/2019 8:21:48 PM |
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Topic |
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The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley Part two