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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
5187 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2019 :  3:45:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That works well. Much improved. I think it captures the appearance of Concord Granite as Iíve seen described.

Mike
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2019 :  5:12:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Craig Bisgeier thinks it should be more brown. I dunno. I'll have to take another look at it. "Concord Granite" was the inspiration, but not a 'requirement'.

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 07/01/2019 5:12:47 PM
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2019 :  1:28:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I ran some brown Pan Pastels lightly over the stone, per Craig Bisgeier's suggestion. It does look a bit less "blatantly grey"


dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
5187 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2019 :  2:25:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

I like the looks of the stone after the brown wash. Sometimes effective modeling is a compromise between what you think and what you see.

Mike
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2019 :  8:14:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The windows are in place and walls glued together. I have touch-up to do at the corner (no surprise!) I like the round (Tichy) window in the gable.


dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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Orionvp17
Fireman

USA
6646 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2019 :  8:26:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is coming together nicely, Dave.

Pete
in Michigan
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/04/2019 :  6:52:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Roof (and back) are done on the stone mill. I need to add some trim under the eaves, etc.. Stone foundations test-fitted in place, they're next.




dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2019 :  11:49:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It was a frustrating day yesterday. I grabbed a piece of ME Code 55 flextrack, figuring that would be good for the spur to the mills. I needed to curve that track to fit. The darn stuff wouldn't curve (and keep the curve). Then I clipped the connecting pieces between ties under the rail. The track would bend, but the ties kept on popping off. Losing some ties was OK, losing a lot of them was not.

Anyone know any tricks for forming ME flextrack?

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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jbvb
Fireman

USA
5866 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2019 :  12:22:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've only worked with ME code 83 flextrack, which didn't give much of an argument.The pennypincher runs strong in me; could you just put down the track which lost ties, then insert wooden ties to replace the missing and spike them to hold the gauge? You'd need to use their 'Micro' spikes, which require pre-drilling in anything harder than Homasote.

Edited by - jbvb on 07/10/2019 12:23:48 PM
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2019 :  1:38:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jbvb

I've only worked with ME code 83 flextrack, which didn't give much of an argument.The pennypincher runs strong in me; could you just put down the track which lost ties, then insert wooden ties to replace the missing and spike them to hold the gauge? You'd need to use their 'Micro' spikes, which require pre-drilling in anything harder than Homasote.



Yeah, I'm thinking about that. It would require a good substrate (cork, etc) that the spikes can penetrate and hold (even if the ties themselves are glued down.) If I use some FastTrack tie strips (I have some of those), they come pre-drilled!

Of course, what I -really want- is to follow Dave Frary's lead (described in his PRR Middle Division book), and figure out how to talk someone else into doing my trackwork for me!

On the positive side, the foundation walls are finally glued together (corners and all). I'll flow some plaster into the joints tomorrow, then start coloring.


dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 07/10/2019 7:27:29 PM
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
5187 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2019 :  11:50:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

The only trick I know (I use ME code 70) is to go slow. You start at one end and carefully bend it a little bit, then work your way up a couple of inches and bend a little, go back to the first part you did and rebend. Repeat this process over and over while working your way up the length of track.

Or, you can start in the middle like in this video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOCiIRGoBR0

Mike

Edited by - Michael Hohn on 07/10/2019 11:57:17 PM
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Bill Gill
Fireman

USA
2654 Posts

Posted - 07/11/2019 :  07:50:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, Here's a 5 minute YouTube video where Tony Koester shows a technique for curving ME code 70 weathered flextrack
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_ihrB9pEhg
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
5187 Posts

Posted - 07/11/2019 :  09:30:52 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bill, Thatís a neat technique. Dave, there you go.

I noticed Tony ended with a couple of observations including the advantage that once bent it stays put. The flexibility of the other brands drives me crazy.

Mike
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deemery
Fireman

USA
7695 Posts

Posted - 07/11/2019 :  11:16:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The Koester technique looks particularly useful. I'll try it and report back. I'm dealing with tighter radii than Tony, though :-)

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
5187 Posts

Posted - 07/11/2019 :  12:48:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

I have a couple of curves in the area of 20Ē radius and have been able to curve the track by hand. I donít know how small a radius the method Tony uses could go. He makes the point that once the track is curved some it moves a bit more freely so hand curving should be easier to finish things off.

For various reasons I donít use the weathered track so itís probably easier for me.

Wouldnít 40Ē minimum radius be nice?

Mike
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