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railman28
Fireman

USA
5653 Posts

Posted - 09/30/2019 :  12:08:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That ladder is taking you to new heights! Well, not really. Your modeling is already in the clouds for excellence. I enjoyed the tool rack too. I'm really enjoying watching you build.

Bob

It's only make-believe

Edited by - railman28 on 09/30/2019 12:12:22 AM
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Bernd
Fireman

USA
3605 Posts

Posted - 09/30/2019 :  08:33:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,

I've been following this build for a while now. One thing you have taught me is that it takes "patients" to build something with this degree of detail. Keep up the great work.

Bernd

WWG1WGA
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TRAINS1941
Engineer

USA
12497 Posts

Posted - 09/30/2019 :  09:23:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tony great work on the work bench problems. The ladder is awesome!!

Jerry

"And in the end, it’s not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6351 Posts

Posted - 09/30/2019 :  10:13:03 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,

I built a couple of those Central Valley ladders and, yes, they are a little clunky as well as missing a critical component. You made excellent improvements. I like the simulated wood appearance.

Mike
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Nelson458
Fireman

USA
3151 Posts

Posted - 10/01/2019 :  11:28:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bob, Bernd, Jerry and Mike, thank you all for your comments and support.

Yes, a fine model does take some time, as I discovered, and I found that taking a little time off helps, even building some other model, as I did with the water tower and shed, which will become part of the 'scenic set' eventually. But the details take most of the time, not only to make them all, but what ones to add, modify or even scratchbuild.

At first I was going to scratchbuild a step ladder, and may do so one day, but this one was just there, begging to be done.

Mike, I was surprised the wood appearance turned out as well as it did. I basically painted on various pastels to get the effect. I like it.

Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene
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postalkarl
Fireman

6944 Posts

Posted - 10/01/2019 :  10:05:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Nelson:

What can I say but WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I really like that water tank.

Karl S
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Nelson458
Fireman

USA
3151 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2019 :  12:23:16 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by postalkarl

Hey Nelson:

What can I say but WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I really like that water tank.

Karl S



Thank you Karl I appreciate that.

Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene
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hon3_rr
Fireman

USA
7237 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2019 :  12:56:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Continued great work Nelson!

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.
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Nelson458
Fireman

USA
3151 Posts

Posted - 10/05/2019 :  10:50:15 AM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hon3_rr

Continued great work Nelson!



Thank you Kris.

Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene
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Nelson458
Fireman

USA
3151 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2019 :  2:57:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bench legs

Many of you have detailed bench castings from the likes of Rusty Rails and others, and putting on a set of legs can be a little troubling and awkward. It has been for me too, and today I want to show a couple of ideas I came up with, and please, share any you may have, I can always learn something.



The first produces a heavy looking bench, great for just putting one on, or not wanting to add too much detail beneath, although you could if you used a little savvy and used smaller ‘timber’ or spaced things apart more.



In either case, I pre-cut my strip wood, pre-stained, and pretty much ready to go. Some pieces should be left long (side bracing) to be trimmed later, or to keep the bottom rail even on both sets (back and front) of legs. You’ll see a little way down the road here.





First, I laid out some styrene, .060” in the back and .015 in the front. Just needs to be thinner in the front than the leg posts. The distance apart is your choice, in this case, I used 4 leg sections as the height, so I spaced then in 3 places along the opening to get it all even.





Lay down 2 sections of the top and bottom rails





With 2 small square blocks or steel that you might have, and glue on the end legs. I used Canopy glue, which dries fairly quickly.





Then the center leg, unless you have a short table. Then the ends will do fine.





Do both front and back leg sections, and when dry, glue them to the casting as shown. As it happens, there is already a .04” step on the castings just for this purpose, which is very handy indeed. Hold until dry, using Canopy glue, which sticks to resin nicely, making sure it is square.





Do the same for the opposite side





Now you can add some slightly long side supports and trim when dry.







Now, if you wish, you can add some boards below the top. I took some 2-by strip wood, wider than .04”, wide enough to overhang the support, or to lay flush with, and with a sharp razor blade, cut openings where the legs go. I think you can see where this is going from here. I made one for each side. Then glue in place. With the remaining gap between the two, just cut another piece to fit. If you make them a little long, you can cut them to size after the glue dries. Being a short opening, I intend to add some pipe under here.













NOW, for the second lighter look, with another casting, something I didn’t do on the first, is take a file to clean off the area of paint and to make sure there are no obstructions. In this castings case, there was a piece of resin that was bridging the gap to the open drawer, plus a small bubble of casting in the opening too.




I also changed tactics and glued the side leg support onto the ends of the casings. I made them the same width as the casting width, making sure the ends were square. I then measured the overall length for the leg supports, in this case, 1.556”.







I take off .01” for the thickness of 2 legs, for about 1.455”. I have two miter boxes, one shown here from Micro Mark, which is extra-long for pieces like what I am about to cut, and one from UMM at https://www.umm-usa.com/, item MN034. They now have some additional saw boxes like the MN060, a nice set of 3. You will also need their saw, JLC002 or the boxed one (as I have) JLC004, a great buy at only $18.95. I have several extra blades, but to be honest, I have used the one I had in it when I bought it, and it’s still sharp, even after cutting numerous amounts of brass, wood and styrene. The Micro mark uses a different screw, most likely metric, but seems too soft and may strip out one day (at the Phillip's head end), and I wrote to them to find out the size of thread, to no avail, but the UMM one is very good.



Now, back to modeling, the calipers shown in here to set the length gives me a cut to within .005” of the length I need. A simple sanding with the NWSL sander will bring it to size.





Now you only need one strip of styrene to hold the top section, cut from 4x4 strip wood, to glue the legs on to the ends.







Now you need to cut one more leg for the center. I used the UMM miter saw here and a small section of the same wood to act as a spacer from when I originally cut the legs. Glue this in the center of the sections, keeping it square.







Cut a long section of material, I used 1x3 here, for the shelf support, and glue it all the way across, keeping it level. This helps keep it level for putting in the boards. Then cut off the extras.







This is how I cut the slots on the shelves below. Lining up the top of the bottom rail to one side. Then I cut using the legs for cutting guides. I will be using this piece, so it is a 1x12 piece of strip wood. You will notice how square I have the legs, they stand up on their own.








Here I have glued in the two leg sections, with shelves attached. I will add the side sections at this point, using the shelving to align them correctly. (with the whole thing upside down here, gave me an idea on a wagon I might build, with drawers on the sides. What do you think???)










Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene
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time2play
Fireman

Canada
1154 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2019 :  6:53:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Nicely done Tony. And informative...

Bob
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Nelson458
Fireman

USA
3151 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2019 :  8:57:09 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by time2play


Nicely done Tony. And informative...

Bob



Thanks Bob

Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene
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Michael Hohn
Fireman

USA
6351 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2019 :  11:15:24 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes indeed, very well done, Tony. When it comes to building HO shelves and work benches you’re the man.

Mike
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bandman
Section Hand

USA
78 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2019 :  3:26:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Such precision in your work, Tony. I enjoy seeing your creations.

Horton M.
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railman28
Fireman

USA
5653 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2019 :  8:09:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice workbench. Nice detailing.

Bob

It's only make-believe
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