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32677 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2016 :  08:36:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Originally posted by Ray Dunakin

Thanks for the tip about the angle-setter/protractor. I've been needing something like that.

Me, too, Kris.

You are our resident master at detailing each step, Kris. It is much appreciated.

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Michael Hohn

6516 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2016 :  10:21:31 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Beautiful workmanship. You use such a variety of materials and tools that your posts make a pretty comprehensive tutorial.

By the way, regarding the angle business, the angle you measure and the angle you want to determine must add to 180 degrees. So simply subtract the angle you measure from 180 to get your answer. It's one of those theorems we promptly forgot after the final exam.


Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie
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7237 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2016 :  5:39:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Mike for the complements. I've received requests to list all of the builds where different materials, tools and techniques have been applied/described. The requests were part of the reason for the 'sandbox' series and series index on the first page of this thread.

The sandbox series does not contain a lot of the actual kit building techniques which I use a lot of time, but focuses instead on scratch building, weathering and coloring of model components along with playing with different methods to accomplish these tasks. The exception being the balsa foam section in this build. Some of the kit building techniques I often use but don't describe can be found on pages 14 thru 21 of the 'Rusty Stumps' Reed&DeYoung Tobacconists Shop. http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22969&whichpage=14

Bruce, Thanks for the complement. I'm truly humbled.

Let's complete the 'switching' to a different roofing component, the fascia boards.

Color the fascia boards:
A) HO Scale 2x6 (6 pc - 12 inch length) http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-12.htm
B) Prismacolor Markers French Grey 40% #PM-158
-- Option: If the French Grey has too much red hue for your model, then select the Prismacolor from the 'Cool Grey' Prismacolor series for a more silver/bleached coloring.

1) Color both long edges of the stripwood prior to coloring the faces of the boards.
Hint: To easily color the board edges, bundle/stack the stripwood together so all the boards are in a single stack. Hold the stack by pinching the stack of wood together with the thumb and forefinger. Using the broad tip of the marker, color the stripwood edges with multiple passes of the marker, coloring about 1 to 2 inches at a time. Pinch the wood stack next to where you are coloring the wood edges. While pinching the stack and during the coloring process, roll the stack of wood between your thumb and finger. As you roll the stack, different boards will become dominate in the stack, exposing their edge to the marker for easy coloring. Move your fingers down the length of the stack, at 1-2 inch increments, coloring the board edges as you go.
2) Color both faces of the stripwood by slowly drawing the stripwood under the marker tip. Do this on a solid flat surface.

Add fascia to the stone office roof:
A) Precolored 2x6 (1pc - 12 inch strip)

When adding the fascia, place the stone office roof, metal foil side face down, on a spread out chalk rag. This will help prevent damage to the roof/foil surface.
1) Align the 2x6 to the side edge (edge above side wall of office) of the matboard sub-roof.
2) Mark and cut the stock 2x6 for the length of the front edge matboard plus 1/4 inch. You want to have excess 2x6 on past each end of the matboard. The mating fascia board at the corner will butt against the excess 2x6 extending past the matboard corner.
3) Apply a thin film of glue to one side and edge of the fascia board. Glue the fascia board into place so there is excess 2x6 extending past the matboard on both ends. The fascia board should be glued flush against the matboard with the 2x6 edge against the roofing foil underside. Use a drafting triangle to assist in the placement of the 2x6 against the matboard and foil. Also, use the body of the triangle flat on top of the matboard/2x6 seam. By using the body of the triangle and pressing down on the triangle, the 2x6 will be flush with the matboard and foil surfaces. Use the corner of the triangle to remove any excess/weeping glue from the matboard/fascia seam.

The side edge fascia board in place. Note the excess 2x6 going past the matboard sub-roof edges.

4) Sand or file one end of the 2x6 stock square.
5) Lid stain (reference defines on first page) the square end of the 2x6 stock using a light A-I wash or MikeC's #8 ink stain.
6) Butt the stained square end of the 2x6 rear fascia board (opposite end from stone office door) against the installed side fascia board. Mark and cut the length of the matboard plus 1/4 inch. You want to have excess 2x6 on the mill wall side of the roof.
7) Glue the front fascia board into place using the triangle as before to position and attach the 2x6.

Rear fascia board installed. Note how the squared end butts against the side fascia board. Also note the excess fascia board on the opposite end extending past the edge of the roofing.

8) Sand or file one end of the 2x6 stock square.
9) Lid stain (reference defines on first page) the square end of the 2x6 stock using a light A-I wash or MikeC's #8 ink stain.
10) Butt the stained square end of the 2x6 front fascia board (end above stone office door) against the installed side fascia board. Mark and cut the length of the matboard plus 1/4 inch. Again, you want to have excess 2x6 on the mill wall side of the roof.
11) Glue the front fascia board into place using the triangle as before to position and attach the 2x6.

The three fascia boards in place. Note the excess fascia boards extending past the roof edge.

12) Use a flush or cuticle nipper to remove the excess 2x6 from the front fascia board only. Do not remove the excess fascia side boards.

Fascia added to the roof. Note how the two fascia boards extend past the roof edge.

13) Place the roof, metal side down, on a cutting mat. You will want to make sure not move the roof in the next steps as the protection of the foil roof surface provided by the chalk rag has been lost.
14) Place a scrap piece of 4x4 against the side fascia board.
15) Using a fresh #18 blade and a chop cut, remove the excess foil roofing. Place the flat side of the #18 blade vertical against the 4x4 and use a rocking-chop motion to cut the foil.

4x4 against the fascia to provide uniform metal roofing overhang. Note how the two cut edges show equal foil overhang.

16) Repeat the process to remove the excess foil on all sides.
17) You should now have a roof with a straight and equal corrugated foil overhang on all three sides. You will probably also note a few pinpoint areas where the foil is exposed. Moving the roof under a strong light source will help expose the damaged areas.

18) Using the edge of a drafting triangle, press all of the foil flat from the underside so the roof surface is flat on all edges.

Weather the roof:
A) Vallejo Burnt Cadmium Red #70814
-- Option: Burnt Umber or other dark rust color acrylic will work.

1) Use a 3/16 inch mop brush or #3 round to color the edges of the cut foil. Use a brush top-roll stroke (reference defines) to color the foil edge.
2) Using the same dark rust color, first use small amounts of full strength acrylic paint applied in very small dabs to cover the damaged areas of the roof. The object is to cover all exposed foil.
3) View the roof under a strong light source, moving the roof to ensure all damaged areas are colored.
4) With the acrylic paint still wet, apply small amounts of water to further blend and streak the paint. Hold the roof vertical to assist with the natural water flow, resting roof edge on a paper towel or rag. Note that the selection of a acrylic paint to recolor the damaged roof areas and edges deliberate. Acrylic was used to avoid any issues with solvents and the mediums used earlier to color the roof.

First step in repair and weathering of roof is application of a dark rust colored paint.

5) Use grey, earth tones and rust colored soft pastels or weathering powders to further blend and weather the roof. Use small amounts of powder on the roof and blend/streak with a brush using vertical strokes and light pressure. I used an old 'soft' toothbrush to apply my pastels and weathering powders.
Note that I'm not providing suggestions here as items such as lighting, your colors used and dilutions will all affect the color values you will need to use. In general, use the same color values as used for the base coloring with the addition of earth tones for accent weathering.
6) Finish the roof and set the pastels with a with a light A-I wash applied via a stippling stroke while holding the roof vertical. There should be very little A-I wash run-off because the wash is applied in small amounts.

The weathered roof.

7) Test fit the roof in place on the carved balsa block office. Determine if you want to use the 2x6 extensions in mounting the roof in place. The fascia extensions may be useful in some structures. If using the extensions, cut a small slot as needed with a #11 blade.
8) I chose not to use the extensions. Using flush nippers, remove the excess 2x6 from the roof by cutting flush with the foil edge.
9) Touch up the cut ends of the 2x6 with Prismacolor marker, using the fine tip held against the wood end. The marker ink will weep up the wood to weather the board.
10) Glue the roof into position on top of the stone office. I used a yellow glue to mount my roof.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 02/15/2016 5:47:13 PM
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Ray Dunakin

3306 Posts

Posted - 02/16/2016 :  02:25:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Ray Dunakin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Wow, it's really looking great! Nice job on an interesting building!
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Engine Wiper

386 Posts

Posted - 02/16/2016 :  09:01:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great stuff Kris! I'm really enjoying this thread.
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Bill Gill

3092 Posts

Posted - 02/16/2016 :  09:33:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice roofing.
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12637 Posts

Posted - 02/16/2016 :  12:07:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris that roofing perfecto!!!


"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln
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7237 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2016 :  12:57:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Gentlemen for the kind comments. Much appreciated. It's going to be a few more days until I can get something posted, but we'll be returning to the clerestory bracing and weathering. Until then, here are a couple of **preview** pictures on where I'm going with this.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.
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4605 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2016 :  1:18:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

I'll bet you will be happy once this build is finished. That roofing does appear like a tedious project and you have accomplished it well. I would have given up long ago. Excellent work.
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6083 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2016 :  1:52:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One heck of a build Kris'. The roofs are beautiful. Your tedious and dedicated work has paid off. It's been a long haul, and worth it'...

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8509 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2016 :  2:38:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I wonder if the roof would show more soot when the mill was running. The rust looks great, but I'd expect an active mill district to throw out a lot of coal dust and other particulates, that would tend to darken the rust on the roof panels.

Just a thought....


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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7237 Posts

Posted - 02/29/2016 :  6:59:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the comments and to all who have taken their time to visit. I have to concur with Dave's comments about the roofing on the clerestory being a bit more abused from the soot which would be deposited from the stacks. I'll start to address the issue during the weathering process of the clerestory.

NOTE: Now is a good time to review scrap box/parts box for parts or possible mini-scenes to be added to build for extra detail.

Color the window castings:
A) Vallejo Model color Acrylic Offwhite #70820.
B) Vallejo Acrylic Thinner #061.
C) Delta Ceramcoat Bamboo #02657.
D) Primed clerestory window castings - 10 pc.
E) For glass, I cut to fit and installed a piece of 3M Scotchcal Marking Film #8520 backing. This looks like acetate sprayed with a even layer of Dullcoat, but without the fuss.

1) Paint the window castings prior to removing from the sprue. I used an offwhite paint and a #4 soft round brush. Lightly dilute the paint so that the paint is applied as a thick wash. Allow the paint to cure dry. I have discovered that using a acrylic diluting agent that I get much better coverage. This is particularly pronounced for highly thinned paints, artists and craft acrylics. I suspect that it has something to do with the binding agent.
2) Repeat the first step to fully color the castings and no primer is exposed. Allow to cure dry.
3) Dilute the bamboo craft paint with the acrylic thinner. 3:2 - paint/thinner.
4) Apply the Bamboo color with an old sock. Use an old white athletic sock, turned inside out. Using the fuzzy part of the sock near the toes, dip a small bit of the sock into diluted bamboo paint. Dab the damp sock on a paper towel to remove most of the paint from the sock. You are trying to use a 'drybrush' technique, but using a sock for the brush.
5) Using a stipple stroke and light pressure, apply the bamboo at random to the castings. This will produce a worn, peeling paint effect. Set the castings aside to cure dry.
6) With the castings still on the sprue, flood the castings with a medium A-I wash.
7) Remove the window castings from the sprue. Sand or file the sprue nubs and touch up the castings if needed.
8) Glaze the windows. Tichy includes the window glazing, pre-cut and weathered. (Thanks to Tichy for the attention to detail.) I decided not to use the included glazing as the factory weathering appeared to make the window look like the glass was frosted due to a glue application. I used one pane as a template and cut the window glass from the 3-M backing film. I used Pacer Formula '560' canopy glue dabbed into the window corners to mount the glass to the window. Put the completed window castings aside.

Brace the clerestory components:
A) 1/8 inch square stripwood. (Bracing material. 4-pc 24 inch inch length.) http://kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-dim.htm
B) 1/4 inch square stripwood (12 inch length - 2 pc.)
C) HO 4x6 stripwood. (Bracing material. 24 inch length - 1 pc.) http://kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-24.htm
D) Delta Ceramcoat Quaker Grey #02057
E) Delta Ceramcoat Asbestos (or other dark grey-black color.)

The bracing for the clerestory will require a unusual approach. There are only three walls and the roof. Also, consideration must be given to the possible viewing of the bracing through the large window surface created by the multiple windows in the long window wall. Additionally, there is only 1/16th of an inch above and below the windows. This is not enough space for mounting substantial bracing component(s). The final issue is making sure the clerestory ends are mounted correctly directly over the outside edges of the mill walls. The clerestory structure is mounted directly above the outside edge of the stone walls and the clerestory front roof edge is the same length as the chute wall face.

1) Determine the length of the long window wall with the wall centered on the underside of the chute wall roof. Mark the ends of the long wall on the mill roof surface.

Determining the location for bracing making sure the bracing fits inside the length of the long window wall which is centered under the chute side roof of the clerestory.

2) Determine how far from the front edge of the chute wall the 1/8th inch square bracing must be set back to allow clerestory side wall angles to clear the bracing. Mark on the roof underside for the location of the bracing.

Determining that the bracing will clear the clerestory sides.

3) Cut and glue the 1/8th inch square brace to the underside of the roof. Allow to dry under weight.

The brace glued into place. For those interested, in the picture above, the little white area on the roof has a "CH" noted in the white space. This is were I noted which side of the clerestory roof section this roof is and which edge is the roof peak. The peak is where the identifying mark is. This identifier will be painted over when the bracing is colored.

4) Determine the length of the face edge of the chute wall by measuring the mounted 4x4 on top of the wall edge. This 4x4 should be flush with the two corner wall faces and the chute wall face. Mine is 31.4 cm. in length.

Measuring the chute wall length by using the mounted 4x4.

Measuring the angled wall corner of the 4x4. You can see how I obtained the 31.4 cm length.

5) Determine the clerestory side wall distance from the mill roof west wall edge. Place the mill roof into position and then sit the long window wall in place. Lightly mark the edge for the length of the window wall. Make sure the window wall is placed correctly at the mill angled wall corner prior to marking the opposite end for length.

Placing the long window wall to assist in determining where the side wall will be mounted on the roof.

Note how long wall corner is located at the mill walls angled corner. The clerestory siding will be above this corner. Remember, long wall will be mounted approximately 4" back from the chute wall face on the roof.

6) Account for siding thickness. Using two scrap pieces of sub-roofing material, place the two pieces on the outside of the mark for the clerestory side. This will account for the thickness of the two siding sub-walls. Mark the outside of the sub-walls for the placement of the clerestory siding.

Mark the mill roof on the outside of the scrap matboard for the location of the clerestory siding placement.

7) Determine placement of clerestory window wall on mill roof. Place the clerestory window wall on the mill roof. Align one edge with the guide mark just made. Mark the opposite end. These marks will be the outside edge for the placement of the clerestory side walls.

Toothpicks are lying on top of the marks for the side walls. I used toothpicks to show where the marks are as the light pencil mark does not photograph.

8) Don't worry about the light pencil marks on the mill roof showing. Once the clerestory is mounted in place, any visible pencil marks will be covered by the application of roofing tar.
9) Create a second brace for the opposing clerestory roof component. Cut a 1/4 inch square piece of stripwood to length to fit between the two clerestory siding marks (make sure to use the inside mark) or use the the long clerestory wall as a template. If using the wall as a tinplate, cut the stripwood about 1/4th of an inch short. The space is to allow for possible 1/8th inch bracing on the clerestory sides.

Cut bracing stripwood just a bit short for a roof brace. Cut brace short to allow for possible bracing of clerestory sides.

10) Place the roof for the long window side, foil side down, on a chalk rag. Use the window wall to determine placement of the 1/4 inch square brace. Note that you will want the brace centered under the roof and along the roof peak edge. Cut the stripwood to size.
11) Square the ends of the bracing.
12) Glue the bracing into place removing excess glue which may weep. You want to make sure that there are no highly reflective surfaces as they may be seen through the windows. Allow to dry under weight.
13) Repeat the process to add a second brace about mid-roof. Make sure that the bracing does not interfere with the siding-roof angles.
14) Glue the bracing into place, making sure that the brace is also out of the sight line when viewing through the windows.
15) Brace the long window wall using a piece of 4x6. Cut the stripwood to match the window wall length. The 4x6 will fit below the windows. The long wall top edge will be supported/braced with the addition of the roof component.
16) Test fit the 4x6 to make sure that the stripwood will not be seen when looking through the windows.
17) Paint the 4x6 the same dark grey-black as the other interior surfaces of the clerestory. Make sure to paint the ends of the 4x6 also to help seal the wood and prevent warping.
18) Glue the face of the 4x6 to the inside of the long window wall, aligning the 4x6 with the bottom edge of the wall. Use the edge of the 4x6 which will best fit for the gluing surface.
19) Color the metal roofing underside. Paint the underside of the exposed foil edges on all the siding and roofing components. I used Ceramcoat Quaker Grey #02057. A #4 shader (Lowe-Cornell 7300 series) was used to apply the paint. Try to keep paint from bleeding through the foil seams and off of the underside of the roof surface.
20) Using the clerestory window wall as a tinplate, cut a 1/8th inch square stripwood brace to match the length of the window wall.
Square the ends after cutting this piece to length. This will be the brace to set the distance between the two side walls on the chute side of the roof.
21) Paint the cut brace the same dark grey-black as used for the other interior surfaces.
22) If not already done, paint the 1/4 inch square bracing with the dark grey-black paint.
23) Touch-up the roof underside edges with the dark grey-black paint and cover any light gull-grey paint used on the foil. Brush from the roof off or color the roof underside face with a rolling of a round brush across the surface. Keep the dark paint off the foil. Do not worry about the matboard roof edge as the fascia applied later will cover any black or grey paint spots.
24) Spread a soft cloth about the same thickness as a cutting mat out to support the length of the roof components.
25) Remove the excess foil overhang. Place the roof component, foil side down, on the rag. Slide a cutting mat under the foil overhang.

Resting the foil roof on a soft rag next to the cutting mat to remove excess roofing foil.
26) Place a scrap piece of 6x6 against the side fascia board.
27) Using a fresh #18 blade and a chop cut, remove the excess foil roofing. Place the flat side of the #18 blade vertical against the 6x6 and use a rocking-chop motion to cut the foil.
Remember, we have not yet attached the fascia, thus the use of the 6x6 as a spacer instead of the 4x4 as used in earlier steps.

Assemble the clerestory:
Prior to coloring the clerestory roof components, it is necessary to construct the clerestory and add the ridge cap roofing. Remember to work on a soft rag as needed to protect the foil surfaces as you construct the clerestory.

A) 1/8 inch square stripwood. (Bracing material. 1-pc 24 inch inch length.) http://kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-dim.htm
B) Delta Ceramcoat Asbestos (or other dark grey-black color.)
C) Canson Mi-Teintes Pastel Paper, 98 lb., #702-2051, Assorted Colors. 1 sheet.
D) Prismacolor Marker, Black #PM-98

1) Install the windows into the long wall. I used Aleene's Original Tacky Glue as the adhesive. Use a scrap of sq stripwood to help position the window castings and use a drafting triangle to insure that the windows are vertical once placed in the wall and prior to the adhesive drying.

Windows installed in long wall of clerestory.

Close-up of window casting to show effects of using a sock to produce a faded and peeling paint effect.

2) Add bracing to the clerestory sides. Identify the location and clearance of the x-supports and 1/4 inch roof bracing. Cut and install the 1/8th inch square bracing on the inside of the sides, aligned with the bottom edge of the side. Dry under weight. By installing the bracing on the base of the sides at the roof seam, not only will the 1/8th inch square wood provide bracing for the sides, but it will also provide additional gluing surface when installing the clerestory on the mill roof.

Location of 1/8th inch square bracing on interior of clerestory sides.

3) Paint the bracing to match the other interior surfaces.
4) Glue the long wall to one of the side walls. Make sure to capture the mill roof angle so that the long wall is vertical to the mill walls. Also ensure that the long wall is attached to the inside of the side wall. Allow to dry.
5) Attach the second clerestory side to the long window wall. Allow to dry.
6) Glue into place the front (chute side) 1/8th in square brace between the two side walls. Verify that the roof bracing will clear the support. Verity too that the clerestory will sit flat on the mill roof. Note that the clerestory assembly if very fragile. Allow assembly adhesive to cure dry.

Assembled clerestory walls and front (chute wall) brace sitting on mill roof.

Front brace shown glued in place.

7) Using the dark grey-black paint, touch-up any matboard edges on the clerestory components.
8) Measure and mark the clerestory footprint. Measure the inside footprint of the clerestory while the assembly is in place on the mill roof. A piece of thin paper or matboard will be used to create a smooth surface (clerestory floor) under the clerestory. This is necessary due to the large window area created by the windows in the long wall. The flat surface will assist in reducing the ability to view the mill roof through the windows. Remember that the mill roofing paper has folds and edges along with lighter colors, all of which reflect light at different angles. The flat surface should reduce the reflected light.
8) Cut the clerestory floor material to size and test fit. I used Canson Mi-Teintes Pastel Paper.

Paper which will become the clerestory floor being fitted into place.

9) Mark the floor footprint on the roof. Once the clerestory floor is in place, remove the clerestory assembly. Mark the floor footprint on the roof. These marks will be used during the mounting of the floor to the mill roof.
10) Color the clerestory floor if needed to a dark grey-black color. I used a marker to color the paper to reduce warping. The grey pastel paper, smooth side was colored twice using a black Prismacolor marker. I went over the floor twice to color the paper in a uniform manner.
11) Apply adhesive to the back side of the clerestory floor and glue into place on the mill roof. Allow the floor adhesive to dry under weight.

Clerestory floor glued in place on the mill roof.

Well guys... that's it for today. I've run out of juice, but I still have another 6 pages of notes to distill and post. I'm going to try to get caught up with my posting on this build in the next 2 days, so stay tuned. Next up will be the addition of the clerestory roof and the weathering of the clerestory. Till next time, thanks for the comments on the good, bad and ugly.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 03/01/2016 10:17:49 AM
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4605 Posts

Posted - 02/29/2016 :  10:42:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

JUST CHECKING IN AGAIN TO YOUR LATEST "SHORT" TUTORIAL, so you sure you're not a teacher in a previous life....my word!

Always a treat to the finest methods you have shown here. Many tips for the followers of your thread for sure.
Very nice project.
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12637 Posts

Posted - 02/29/2016 :  11:18:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Excellent tutorial Kris. Good to read you once again.


"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln
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6083 Posts

Posted - 02/29/2016 :  11:20:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Indeed Kris. A well described process of your techniques. Your time spent in your explanations
is much appreciated'. Thank you'.

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