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Wazzou
New Hire

USA
24 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  2:27:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've got a lot of experience with shake shingles but this will be the first time of sided a building with them. I'll be using Rusty Stumps Random Shake.
My question is this...
there will be windows and doorways involved, do the shingles go right up to the opening and the windows and door frames set atop the siding or should the shingles butt up to the frames? I ask this because I don't want to install the windows until the siding is all applied, painted and weathered as the windows will be a different color.
Is my question clear?

Regards,
Bryan

deemery
Fireman

USA
7797 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  2:33:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's a very good question, actually. Here's a discussion on 1-1 scale: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/21443/whats-the-best-way-to-install-cedar-shingle-siding-on-an-old-house

That being said, in smaller scales particularly people often "cheat" and put the window casting frames over top of the shingles.

dave

Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
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Mike Hamer
Engineer

11492 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  2:37:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mike Hamer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Bryan, I shingle right up to the opening for the door or window and the framing detail on the door or window casting will fit nicely overtop. There are some cases where the kit manufacturer offers a different method for doors and windows. In this event, they will offer scribe lines for you to place the shake shingles up to, but not across. I'll try to locate a couple of pics from previous builds to help you out. [:-apple]

Mike Hamer
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
http://www.bostonandmaine.blogspot.ca
http://www.craftsmanstructures.blogspot.ca
http://modelrailroadsivisit.blogspot.ca
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Dave D
Fireman

USA
1058 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  2:43:46 PM  Show Profile  Click to see Dave D's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I've built Hurst boiler and welding, and am 3/4s through Hunch landing, both Bar Mills kits, and they instruct you to lay the shingles right over the opening, and then cut them flush with the sides of the opening.

Good advise, because that way your shingles will continue to line up properly on the other side of the opening, as well as the rows above the opening.

It's the only way to go when you consider the fact that if you don't use them as a whole strip, you will need to cut and piece them from that point on, to line them up to look correct.

Saves a lot of work and time.

Be sure to use a new sharp blade to cut them at the opening as well.


Edited by - Dave D on 01/19/2014 2:47:53 PM
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Mike Hamer
Engineer

11492 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  2:48:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mike Hamer's Homepage  Reply with Quote


This boathouse I built a few years ago had shake shingles on its side.



I shingled right up to the openings and the window and door castings did the trick of covering the edges.



Sometimes a little dexterity is required around those smaller porthole style windows.



I echo Dave's comment about shingling across the opening. I used that approach on this pharmacy I recently built. You can shingle across the entire opening, but you will have to use a really sharp blade when cutting, especially near the top or bottom of the opening. You can use scissors from behind should you wish to shingle a single row at a time and cut each row one-by-one as you go along.



I've used both methods and they work well.

Mike Hamer
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
http://www.bostonandmaine.blogspot.ca
http://www.craftsmanstructures.blogspot.ca
http://modelrailroadsivisit.blogspot.ca

Edited by - Mike Hamer on 01/19/2014 2:57:20 PM
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Mike Hamer
Engineer

11492 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  3:03:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mike Hamer's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Pete's Boat Shop, a wonderful kit from Walt at Rusty Stumps offers this variation as mentioned above. Walt tells the modeller not to go to the window and door edges with the shake shingles as he uses another method for windows.



I've started this build concurrently with the forum challenge, but have only managed to get this far on the wall section. This almost finished wall shows the areas we are to leave bare for later window treatment.

Mike Hamer
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
http://www.bostonandmaine.blogspot.ca
http://www.craftsmanstructures.blogspot.ca
http://modelrailroadsivisit.blogspot.ca
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Wazzou
New Hire

USA
24 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2014 :  3:34:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you everyone. All of your photos and dialogue are very helpful.

Regards,
Bryan
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Wazzou
New Hire

USA
24 Posts

Posted - 01/24/2014 :  01:28:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dave D









Dave -
As far as the finished appearance of my shingled walls, yours is the look I am after. Would you care to share how you've gone about achieving it?

Keep in mind, I am beginning with Rusty Stumps random length shingles in the brown color.


Regards,
Bryan
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Dave D
Fireman

USA
1058 Posts

Posted - 01/24/2014 :  09:18:22 AM  Show Profile  Click to see Dave D's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Hi Bryan,
I did a thread back in 09, and there is an explanation there about half way down the page.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27806&whichpage=2

The original color of the sheets does not really matter, because I tape the sheets down and over spray them with rattle can paint. I really like the Krylon camo colors for that.

On these I used Krylon Camouflage Kayki.

I have also used plain primer gray and after it dried, I spritzed the standard ink/alcohol mix in a pump bottle on that with real nice results for a weathered gray start point. The rest is just acrylic craft paint.

Come on up to Green Bay tomorrow....I'm doing a clinic on shingled siding at Enginehouse Services at 1:30! [:-thumbu] [:-propeller]

Edited by - Dave D on 01/24/2014 09:20:28 AM
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