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Dreamweaver
Crew Chief
USA
860 Posts |
 Posted - 03/12/2006 : 04:55:54 AM
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Tim, Thanks for the how-to I'll have to put it to work on of these days.
And as always it looks great nice job.
MikJ |
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bpate
Fireman
Australia
3090 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 06:06:30 AM
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| Thanks for that very useful tutorial Tim. I also will give that a try. |
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Dutchman
Administrator
USA
23277 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 07:55:08 AM
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Tim,
Great info. I've used the regular Silfor, but I need to get some of those tufts. |
Bruce
Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3 |
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Bbags
Administrator
USA
13054 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 08:35:50 AM
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Tim,
Outstanding tutorial and also very pertinent as I will soon be getting to this phase of adding scenery to my layout.
Thanks for the detailed steps and great pictures. |
John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia. |
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Tim Kerkhoff
Fireman
USA
5869 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 11:46:35 AM
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Thanks fellas for the nice comments.
Al, I tried some of the Silfor by accident yesterday and I can tell you that if cows eat that stuff I have no idea why.[:-yuck]
My purpose for the cows was to demonstrate the height, but when I look at the scene I kind of like the cows wandering around. The 5 mm versus the 8mm might look more realistic. Sometimes turn out when you least expect it.
The tufts are really something, when they are up around buildings or a next to something larger they almost look real. Nice material, a must for my scenery stock.
I hope you give it a try, and please post the results.
Thanks again. |
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Dreamweaver
Crew Chief
USA
860 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 2:01:37 PM
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Tim, I thought the cows were supposed to be there I can tell you with 150% accuracy that if you are modeling the Wyoming area you need those mobile methane plants ( Slow Elk ) all over the place.
They truly are all over in wyoming.
Except for the sheep any way, they are all in pins in the back yard made out of two rail fence.[:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-eyebrows][:-angel] |
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Tim Kerkhoff
Fireman
USA
5869 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 8:13:43 PM
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Since there are a number of people doing ballast right now, I decided to post a tutorial on how I am currently doing it.
First of all, ballasting track is my least favorite thing to do. I have tried numerous methods, and all of them were very time consuming and tiring. Then one day a friend of mine asked if I ever tried one of those hairy painting tools. So I thought what the heck and went out and bought one. WOW...what a difference it made. Let me show you what I mean.
This tutorial will be loaded with photo's as I like to see a lot of photo's on other tutorials. It really seems to help me.
The first picuture shows the track rails painted and ready to ballasted.
[
Since I am doing double track I fill the middle with play sand, it saves on the ballast and its cheap. I use sand wherever I can for a base and then cover it up with ballast.
This is the first look at the tool I use, I spread out the sand int about 2 swipes.
A close up look at the tool, I know everyone has seen these things and they might already own one. They really work great. I am not sure if I have ever heard of anyone else using these things, but I would imagine someone has.
I use a measuring cup to spread out the ballast.
This is what it looks like before I use the spreading tool.
I lay the tool flat and let all those little bristles work their magic. Pushing and pulling the ballast. One thing to keep in mind is not to put too much ballast at a time, as you might have to move it down the line and that takes extra time. I try to do about 2' and then spread quickly and move the excess if any to the unballasted part.
You can tip the tool and just use the side, this is great for the spreading ballast on the outside rails. If you get too much along the side, no problem, just take the tool and pat it down. It will level out the ballast perfectly.
After you get done spreading the ballast, there still might be a few particles left on the ties. I take a McDonalds straw and gently blow off what little is left.
We have the ballast spread and its time to glue it in place. I will do that tutorial next. |
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Tim Kerkhoff
Fireman
USA
5869 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 8:45:21 PM
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Continuing on with part 2, I will take you through the gluing process I use.
The first photo shows a section of track ready to be glued down.
I then mist wet water in the air with a fine sparay. My wet water is about 3-4 teaspoons of alcohol with 16 oz of water. If you need it wetter, then use more alcohol. Its important you have a fine mist or it will glob up the ballast. Get the ballast good and wet. FYI I use real limestone/granite ballast, I like the way it stays in place better than the man-made kind. Both kinds work, its just my preference.
I use matte medium with it mixed 3-1 in water. I found one of these nasal bulbs that are used on little children to distibute the glue.[:-yuck]
Now this is important, put the glue over the top of the rail, and not on the ties. This lets the glue flow into the ballast and does not lift it up, so it can settle on top of the ties. Use enough glue to ensure the ballast and sand are coated well. In the center portion between the tracks you can drizzle on the glue directly over the ballast. You will be suprised how much control and the amount of glue one of these nasal bulbs hold.
I then wipe the tracks with my two fingers, this gets most of the glue of the top of the track and elimantes a bunch of scrubbing later.
Here is shows the ballasted glued down, if there are light spots I will add ballast the next day and then re-glue that spot. Do not add ballast now unless you have a very steady hand.
A close up view showing that there is almost no ballast on top to the ties. If those little pieces bother you, just use the tool again, and if you do it the following morning it will chip right off. The detailing of the ties and toning down the ballast comes next. But that is another how to, for another day, if your interested.
Oh yes, one more thing. Make sure you buy the right kind of hairy paint brush. Here is a photo showing two different kinds. You want the one on the left, notice all the bristles and how tight they are. The other one does not work at all.
That concludes my ballast tutorial, if anyone has helpful tips to add please do so. I know there are many ways to do this, but I am very happy with the result and that little brush sure takes the work out of it.
Oh yes, thanks to my wife for taking the pictures. |
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Tabooma County Rwy
Fireman
USA
4203 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 10:43:46 PM
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Great tutorial, Tim (a thunderous round of applause is heard in the background) . I've been using a saline solution bottle (12 ounce, I think) to distribute the matte-medium mixture, because it has a very fine orfice, which makes it easier to control the placement of the glue. But I like your nose bulb idea a lot - I'm gonna have to get me one of those! |
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Dutchman
Administrator
USA
23277 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2006 : 11:18:14 PM
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Tim,
I'm going to pick up one of those paint brush thingies tomorrow! |
Bruce
Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3 |
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railmus
Fireman
Canada
1631 Posts |
Posted - 03/13/2006 : 12:19:45 AM
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I use one of my mother's "Clairol" hair dyeing bottles for spreading the white glue. Good size and a fine tip with a snap top.
She saves them for me for when I visit. |
John Kanakos
CNJWS II, Custom Models- Design & Build
http://www.junctionwestsub.ca
NMRA #055691 CARM # 212 |
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Cigarguy
Fireman
USA
3877 Posts |
Posted - 03/13/2006 : 09:55:55 AM
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| Well done, Tim, well done! |
Mike
D&B Lumber Co.
"The Best Wood You Ever Saw!" |
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Tim Kerkhoff
Fireman
USA
5869 Posts |
Posted - 03/13/2006 : 10:17:27 AM
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Hi fella's,
Thanks for the Kudo's and I hope it helps. If nothing else its a reason to spend a couple bucks and give a new tool a try.
If you happen to try the brush or nasal thing, please let me know how you like them.
I find that I will spend time, money and effort on trying to find solutions for task that are not my favorite. I should do this on all task, but who cares about the ones you enjoy.
Was anyone interested in the detailing portion of the track? I won't do a tutorial if no ones is very interested. I don't mind doing them, but they do take time. If you see good coming from a detailing tutorial then let me know.
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Dutchman
Administrator
USA
23277 Posts |
Posted - 03/13/2006 : 10:33:27 AM
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Tim,
I, for one, would enjoy your track detailing tutorial. Now, I gotta go. I'm heading over to Sears Hardware to get me one of those paint brushes. |
Bruce
Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3 |
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Bbags
Administrator
USA
13054 Posts |
Posted - 03/13/2006 : 10:53:26 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by trussman
Hi fella's,
Thanks for the Kudo's and I hope it helps. If nothing else its a reason to spend a couple bucks and give a new tool a try.
If you happen to try the brush or nasal thing, please let me know how you like them.
I find that I will spend time, money and effort on trying to find solutions for task that are not my favorite. I should do this on all task, but who cares about the ones you enjoy.
Was anyone interested in the detailing portion of the track? I won't do a tutorial if no ones is very interested. I don't mind doing them, but they do take time. If you see good coming from a detailing tutorial then let me know.
Tim,
Excellent tutorial again and thanks for the time and effort you have spent to make things easier for us.
I have one of those paint brushes and I have only used it to paint, silly me.
I also have one of the bulbs which I have used to clean out ear wax from my ears.
I have only used it for this purpose, silly me.
As for a tutorial on detailing the track you must have been reading my mind as I was about to ask how you did this.
Thanks all information which will prove very valuable to me and I am sure others over the next couple of months.
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John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia. |
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Topic |
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Scenery
