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 Atlas code 83 Switches
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BBLmber
Fireman

USA
4222 Posts

Posted - 07/06/2012 :  12:50:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey All, who all are using Atlas switches and what if any improvements do you make to them?

Mark

W,L,&E

BNSF Fan
New Hire

46 Posts

Posted - 07/06/2012 :  5:44:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am using Atlas code 83 switches. Numbers 4, 6, and 8 exclusively. All I do is install the switch, add a Tortoise switch machine, and paint the rails. I am sure I could add improvements if I wanted, but I am happy with them as they are.

Respectfully,
BNSF Fan
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clif
Engine Wiper

USA
210 Posts

Posted - 07/06/2012 :  6:25:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I use quite a few atlas code 83 switches, adding a powered frog so my smaller steam engines don't get hung up on a dead frog. Not hard if you incorporate a spdt slide switch into the turnout mechanism. I have also found some that require filing the points to a sharper point to lower derailments with older wooden kits which can be picky about such things.
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nhguy
Fireman

USA
3665 Posts

Posted - 07/06/2012 :  8:34:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit nhguy's Homepage  Send nhguy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
They seem to work well right out of the box. I power the frogs especially on #8's and paint them. Keep the paint off the points and electrical connections. I put a drop of electrically conductive oil such as Deox-It there before painting so the paint or water of ballasting wont adhere. I do the same as Clif as I file them a bit and actually bend the point out some to contact the rail better.

Bill Shanaman
Superintendent, New Haven RR in the 1948 to 1952 era
PMRA President 2013-14, OpSIG Member
NCE User Since 1999
Sugar City, Colorado
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momarlon
New Hire

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 07/07/2012 :  10:26:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Except for a couple of Peco curved turnouts, ALL of mine are Atlas code 83. One thing I've found is that the switch points tend to be pushed down below the level of the main rails. To prevent this, I apply strips of window glazing under the point rails, held in place with some CA. I carefully cut them so that the length is from the base of the "spikes" on opposite ends of the tie. This also aids in keeping the points from moving if you haven't installed switch machines or manual switch stands. And as Mr. Shanahan mentioned, I power the frogs, too. It's a lot easier to attach the feeder wire while you have it on the bench than after you've installed it on the layout.


Edited by - momarlon on 07/07/2012 10:28:00 AM
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BBLmber
Fireman

USA
4222 Posts

Posted - 07/07/2012 :  10:03:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for all your advice and directions.

Mark

W,L,&E
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dnhman
Fireman

USA
1049 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2012 :  12:58:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have mostly Atlas code 83. What I do is file a bit off the stock rail where they meet the points, mostly for a smoother transition. Also I use a hobby knife to clean flash off the frog insluation where the frog meets all the rail. It tends to stick above the rail head. You can put a good straight edge accross the frog to be sure there is nothing in the way.
Others made mention of powering the frogs, good idea,,,(hex frog juicer is a plus here)

Cheers!, Joe
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Rick F.
Engine Wiper

164 Posts

Posted - 07/16/2012 :  9:36:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have mostly Atlas code 83. If I had it to do over again I'd use Walthers #8's because I've had some derailment problems with Atlas, and because the frogs are shorter and most engines can pass over them without stalling and there is no need to wire them. I don't like the Atlas # 4's. There is a bend in the ones I have in the stock rail opposite the frog. I only use them in small industrial areas.
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