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Graffen
Crew Chief
Sweden
861 Posts |
 Posted - 07/02/2012 : 3:19:57 PM
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Hi all, this is one of my latest builds, a HO scale H3 locomotive built from a etched kit from SMJ/dekaler & etsat in Sweden.
The drive line is totally compensated with levers, and it works wonderfully.
I will paint it tomorrow, so this is the last pics of it in bare brass.....
Not the best pics, but I will take some more before painting it.
The satisfaction that is felt after building a brass loco is great!
:-) :-) :-) |
Swedish custom painter
http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart |
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Graffen
Crew Chief
Sweden
861 Posts |
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railman28
Fireman
USA
1776 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2012 : 3:43:17 PM
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 nicely done. |
It's Only Make Believe
Bob Harris |
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George D
Moderator
USA
10017 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2012 : 8:32:12 PM
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Very impressive work, Michael.[:-thumbu]
George |
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BigLars
Fireman
USA
7479 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2012 : 9:01:30 PM
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| Very nice engine! |
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
550 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2012 : 01:37:57 AM
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Congrats on the achievement[:-thumbu][:-thumbu]
I'm dreaming of building PERLS Cc engine. Wish I would dare tackle such a project.
Håkan |
Edited by - masonamerican on 07/03/2012 01:48:40 AM |
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Graffen
Crew Chief
Sweden
861 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2012 : 1:23:52 PM
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Thanks all!
Håkan, go for it! The Cc is a very nice piece of kit. Just read the articles in "Modelltåg" by Claes Mattison.....
Good way to avoid some traps in the construction.....
Here are some better pics:
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Swedish custom painter
http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart |
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
550 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2012 : 09:08:30 AM
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Thank you for the tip! I'm a newbie to kit soldering but with the help of the articles perhaps I can pull it through. I'm trying to build a HNJ verkstad ABo sleeping car which is nearly finished. I have to have something to pull it with
Do you solder with an iron or do you use resistance soldering?
Håkan |
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Graffen
Crew Chief
Sweden
861 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2012 : 11:40:41 AM
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I use a Weller soldering station (100-450° C), it is very nice to use.
Resistance soldering might have it's followers, but I get the results I need without that.... :-)
They are not good for larger areas or soldering small items to thick goods.....there is a risk of burning thru as I understand it.
They are very good to have if soldering small items next to each other. I saw a signal bridge being soldered together with a resistance unit, and that is where it excels! |
Swedish custom painter
http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart |
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
550 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2012 : 2:01:04 PM
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Thank you for the info. I have a also a Weller. Model PU81 80w 150-450degC. Would it be enough for the job?
Håkan
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Graffen
Crew Chief
Sweden
861 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2012 : 5:21:54 PM
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More than enough!
Remember to use Phosphorus acid as soldering water. It is so much better than other stuff!
Invest in some wide soldering tips though, they are really needed when soldering locos!
A small butane torch for annealing and heating big areas is also nice to have.....
:-)
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Swedish custom painter
http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
France
16524 Posts |
Posted - 07/05/2012 : 02:48:22 AM
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| There's been some mighty impressive brass work done in Sweden these past days. Fantastic work, Michael, on a loco apparently very well designed by the kit manufacturer. |
Frederic Testard |
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Neil M
Fireman
Australia
2173 Posts |
Posted - 07/05/2012 : 04:26:32 AM
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That looks like a very well executed build. Does the rod from the front axle form part of the valve gear?
Could you post a picture of the bottom of the chassis? I always like seeing the workings of a compensated chassis. |
Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia |
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Graffen
Crew Chief
Sweden
861 Posts |
Posted - 07/05/2012 : 05:42:25 AM
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Thanks!
I will take some pics of the frame! ;-)
I used a different method for cleaning the brass before painting it....
I boiled some rhubarbs in water, mixed the water with some wine acid, soap and isopropyl alcohol.
I dipped the loco in that mixture for 10 minutes and used a brush to make sure all parts were cleaned.
Then I soaked it in water with some baking soda (to eliminate the acids).
I the rinsed it with warm water before dipping it in iso-alcohol (to remove all remaining water).
That procedure makes the brass super clean!
I then only handled the model with gloves before priming it!
I used Prymol from Humbrol for that.
It's a self etching primer, totally transparent and very easy to use!
I have painted the first layers of paint now, pics to follow later. |
Swedish custom painter
http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart |
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k27rgs
Fireman
Australia
4286 Posts |
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
550 Posts |
Posted - 07/05/2012 : 12:29:06 PM
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Quite a concoction. Sounds like an old recipe from a medieval Alchemist book . If I may ask how have you come up with that recipe? Does it clean to non-tarnished gleaming brass?
Håkan |
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Topic |
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Kit built Swedish H3 locomotive in brass
