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 Detour Feed Mill Build
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mabloodhound
Fireman

USA
4670 Posts

Posted - 06/27/2012 :  6:00:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great job Danny and I'd have done the same thing by cutting out and saving the hidden portions of that brick wall.
I really need to try some of his brick. I saw it at the CSC show last fall and it really is nice. Problem is I model 1:48 and need 4 times a much to do a build.

Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
“Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin
The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
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Dutchman
Administrator

USA
23277 Posts

Posted - 06/28/2012 :  06:43:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Danny, the first structure is looking terrific. I, too, like the looks of that brick work. BTW, you did a great job on that door rail.

Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3
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Danny Head
Fireman

USA
1769 Posts

Posted - 06/28/2012 :  07:59:43 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bruce. The rail is two pieces of basswood glued in an "L". Then it was painted with a mixture of alcohol and artist dry paint pigment (I believe burnt umber). Then I stippled the dry pigment onto the wet rail to create a rusty texture. The rail hardware is scrap cuttings from Builders in Scale roofing that had been treated with Archer's Etchant.
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Danny Head
Fireman

USA
1769 Posts

Posted - 06/29/2012 :  8:39:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have almost completed the "connector" space that goes between the warehouse and the main mill. The warehouse sits at an angle to the main warehouse and follows a curve in the siding track. This made for an interesting structure, but adds to the difficulty of the build. The "connector" serves as the angle adjustment, thus one wall is 13 feet and the other is 10 feet. Also, because of different widths of side setbacks from one side to the other, the wall heights also become different. So, if things appear to be skewed in the photo, it is by design and will appear less so once the roof is applied.

Because the connector was built simply to connect the mill and warehouse, I felt that scrap lumber may have been used on the real structure. Thus, I did so as well, building this section with board on board construction, leaving out boards to show the framework. The window is a 20 piece scratcbuild.












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Dutchman
Administrator

USA
23277 Posts

Posted - 06/30/2012 :  08:51:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Danny, a lot of 'futzing' (as Rick would call it) goes into an 'off shape' like this. I think you have pulled it off nicely.

Twenty pieces in that window, wow. But that is why you have been dominating the structure and diorama contests in the SER!

Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3
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George D
Moderator

USA
10022 Posts

Posted - 06/30/2012 :  10:16:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That building angle will really make the structure stand out. I like the way the walls with the exposed studs are looking.

George
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Danny Head
Fireman

USA
1769 Posts

Posted - 06/30/2012 :  11:56:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys. George, I started the walls by cutting clapboard for the interior portion. I turned the planking side out and then marked where the studs would be. Once I glued all the studs in place and framed out the window, I started "planking" the walls. I used scale 1" thick boards from my scrap box for the planking and that created a very random look. Several of the boards were split on the ends to represent dry rot. By using the clapboard turned outward for the interior wall, the judges can see what would be interior planks through the missing boards.
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dallas_m
Fireman

USA
3137 Posts

Posted - 06/30/2012 :  10:22:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That looks rotten! [:-thumbu]
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Quark
New Hire

38 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2012 :  10:22:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How did you make the dry rot look? Did you just snap the boards or did you carve the ends special? Thanks
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Danny Head
Fireman

USA
1769 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2012 :  12:29:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Andrej, I cut the board to length to match the stud spacing and then put it flat on a cutting surface. I used a standard razor blade (I rarely use an Exacto) and randonly split the end and with a twisting motion, pulled away some of the wood. If you like, you can also touch the tip with an ink and alcohol solution. I don't think I aplied any on these ends, but I sometimes do.
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Quark
New Hire

38 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2012 :  4:30:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you. This is fine work.

Andy
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postalkarl
Fireman

6478 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2012 :  10:57:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Danny:

Looks good. Are those Monster Models brick walls? They are pretty nice.

Karl S.
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akimmons
Fireman

USA
1354 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2012 :  11:15:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great progress so far Danny. It's good to see you back at the workbench. This is going to be a terrific model. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while you construct it.

Arnold Kimmons
General Manager
Royal & Edisto Railroad
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19182
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Danny Head
Fireman

USA
1769 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2012 :  3:28:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys! Karl, these are Monster Model Works bricks.... in my opinion, the best new scratchbuilding product in 20 years![:-thumbu]
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Danny Head
Fireman

USA
1769 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2012 :  09:42:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I now have all the walls cut (including the door and window openings) and have started the long process of ever so slightly, placing nail holes and board ends.

I did take a couple of the very small sections and paint them in order to be able to post the painting process steps. In my May post of final photographs of the Tennessee Corporation, I had questions about how I achieved the coloring of the aged boards. The same process applied to the Detour Feed Mill, so I will give a bit more information here.

The first wall section (left) is treated with Weather-It from A-West, followed by nail holes and board ends.

The middle section has the Weather-It and the individual boards painted with FolkArt 424 Light Gray.

The last section (right) has the two above processes plus added highlights of Liquitex Soft White. Once the Soft White dried, the paint was "chipped" by pulling a razor blade backward against each board. Later, the wall was washed with an ink and alcohol solution.



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