Railroad Line Forums
Railroad Line Forums
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 The On30 Line
 Making Conifer Trees for the HWCRR
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Next Page
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic
Page: of 2

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/15/2012 :  12:11:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Conifers for the Horace and William Creek R.R.



First, I would like to say "Eureka," got the pics figured out. Then, to apologize for the length of time it has taken me to start this tutorial. Life does get in the way sometimes. It is my first tutorial on anything. So, I hope it meets your expectations.
The trees can be made for any scale, I just happen to be working with "O" scale.



List of Materials and tools:

1. Square balsa sticks. I use sizes 1/2 to 1"

2. Western Sage Brush. This is used to make the primary branching. I live in Washington state, so I can make a trip to the countryside and gather all I want. For those who cannot do this, I have included a link where it can be purchased.

http://www.curiouscountrycreations.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=238

3. Sisal rope, cut into 1/4 to 3/4 inch lengths. Then separate the fibers.

4. Flocking of various shades of green, mixed together. A very will know scenery supply company on the internet, makes pre-mixed dark and light forest floor debri blends. I use these, sifting out all the flocking and other small things. This stuff comes with little brown flakes of something, that look like pinecones on the finished trees. Major bonus!

5. Yellow green, finely ground foam. From the same company as the flocking. This depicts moss growing on the side of the tree.

6. 1/4 inch dowel rod. This will be used to mount the trees to the layout.

7. Super 77 spray adhesive

8. Cheap super hold hair spray

9. Brown and/or black india ink and alcohol washes.

10. White glue

11. Assorted tools: hobby knife, tweezers, clamp tweezers, razor saw, large kitchen sifter, small phillips screwdrivers or drill bits.

Balsa is very fragile. When working with it, give it good support. Do not try to work with a lot hanging out in the air. It will break. If it does, all is not lost. Merely leave the ragged ends as they are, put some white glue on one end and stick them back together exactly as they broke.
No insult here, this info is for those not experienced.

The first step is to cut your balsa stick to the length you want the tree to be in height.
Begin carving it down to a tapered rod. Don't be to concerned about perfection here. It all works out in the end. Remember: Imperfection can be perfect. Or does it go: perfection can be imperfection?



Short tree!

Next, run your hobby knife, held at a very shallow angle, down the trunk in short strokes. Do this using the side of the cutting blade. Score with only enough pressure to leave nice lines in the trunk. Do not forget to support the wood as you go.





Using your razor saw, scribe the trunk. No more pressure than needed to leave marks in the trunk. Use short strokes. Do not worry about any fuzz that might be left behind. Just leave it.



With your small screwdriver or bit, make a 1/4 inch hole in the base of the trunk. Cut a 1 3/4 inch length of dowel rod. Sharpen one end and with a dab of white glue, insert into hole.





Color the trunk of your tree with your favorite shade of ink and alcohol mix. I use a brown and a black mix. Sometimes one or the other.



Once this has dried. This next step is a matter of preference. Personally, I really like the effect.
Spray only one side of the trunk with super adhesive. Let it set for about 20 sec., then sprinkle the yellow, green ground foam up and down the trunk. Set aside and let dry.





At this point, it has taken me 15 mins. to make the one trunk. Not too bad.
I will finish this tutorial at a little later time. I have to make a drive into the country and collect some more sagebrush. Hopefully sooner than not.

Enjoy

Dave

Edited by - HWCRR on 05/16/2012 05:30:12 AM

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/15/2012 :  12:15:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is posted now with the pics. Much thanks to all who was giving me pointers. Frustration was beginning to set in, so I took a long drive. Rick, Sean, Geezer, Elliot and anyone else who posted helps. Thanks a whole bunch!! I was having a senior moment.

Dave

Edited by - HWCRR on 05/16/2012 05:44:38 AM
Go to Top of Page

Sean_OBrien
Engine Wiper

151 Posts

Posted - 05/15/2012 :  12:50:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not sure on your specific image related issue - though I understand there are restrictions both on the resolution and file size as well as a particular naming convention which needs to be followed (normally no spaces in the name...which it looks like your images might have).

Just a suggestion that I adapted from other woodworking that might help cut down your time investment per tree. A taper jig.

Few years back I had to do a redwood forest area which meant lots of tall trees which not a whole lot of action going on. After the first few of them done roughly the same way you worked yours out I went out to my big toy shop and poked around a bit. I got the idea to make a taper jig for doing my trees faster. Nothing too fancy, just three bits of wood. The outer two are not important - just need to be as long and roughly as wide as your main board (cut mine from plywood) the third piece needs to be as long as your tallest tree plus a few inches, as wide as your widest tree, and thick enough to drill a couple holes in. You will also need a screw/bolts and a nut for them (wing nuts make it easily adjustable). You also will want a small scrap for the back of the middle board to act as a stop. It sort of goes together like so:

http://www.sector-17.com/uploads/taper-jig.jpg

Pretty well self explanatory. The front bolt acts as a pivot which allows you to change the final trunk thickness. Clamp it down to a work bench and use a spoke shave to remove most the wood and make it sort of round. Once you get it sort of round I switch over to a hacksaw blade which I use to make it tree like. After that, use more precise tools. Takes only a few minutes to do since the jig takes the thought out of the carving (which always seemed to take the longest amount of time).

Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/15/2012 :  1:28:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks a bunch for the info

Edited by - HWCRR on 05/16/2012 05:43:18 AM
Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/16/2012 :  10:11:33 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Conifers for the Horace and William Creek R.R.

Welcome back. I went on that drive yesterday and collected bunches of dead sagebrush.

A small amount of the sagebrush I collected. From which, I will choose my main branches.



Begin by breaking off the individual branches. Go for forked, curved, straight, bent, long, short. Do not worry about anything but length.
As in nature, do in your modelling.
If I have found out anything, it's this. You will always find the same look in nature.



Using your small screw driver or drill bit. Begin making the mounting holes for your branches. Do this all the way to the top of your tree. Stagger them and try not to be perfect. Mix them up as far as their shape and direction of curve. Do not glue them in yet.



Once you are satisfied with how it is going to look. Begin removing them from the bottom up. I usually do 4 or 5 at a time. Do this in your own comfort zone.

Now we will begin to do the secondary branching.
For this, I use sisal rope fibers. I will cut 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 inch lengths into a container, then separate them.



Next step is to make what I call, "rollers." This is taking a clump of the sisal fibers in one hand, then roll is back and forth between both hands. The fibres will realign.
Once I have this, I will then pull them apart in the middle. It just makes them easier to work with.





Holding your branch in tweezers, or if you prefer clothes pins, spray them with the super adhesive. Don't spray all the way to the base. Leave some branch that will still show through the tree when it is finished.
Let sit for about 20 seconds, then taking the half roller, and begin just touching it to the adhesive. All up and down the branch and both sides. Don't let it clump too much. But, you can always thin it out later.
Once you are satisfied, set aside and do the next one.





By the time you get to number four, you can go back and spray the branches again with super adhesive.
Then gather up some of your flocking mix and sprinkle it over and under the branches. When they are covered to your satisfaction, shake off the excess and affix with the hair spray. Set aside and let them dry for a bit.





Begin putting the branches back on the tree with a spot of white glue. Work your way up the tree, like a lumberjack going in reverse.









These trees look very realistic and draw a lot of attention from those admiring your layout. They are somewhat labor intensive, but they are worth it. They are also very habit forming. You will hear yourself saying: "The next one is going to be even better."
As I model modules, every tree is made in this manner. They make great looking foreground trees on larger layouts. But, if you want all your conifers to look like this, then go for it!


Enjoy

Dave

Don't only practice your art. Force your way into it's secrets. For it and knowledge, can raise man to the divine. Ludwig Von Beethoven

Go to Top of Page

wesleybeks
Fireman

South Africa
2209 Posts

Posted - 05/16/2012 :  10:41:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great stuff Dave. They turned out great.

Regards
Wes.
Dont leave for tomorrow what you can do today.
Go to Top of Page

moore
Engine Wiper

United Kingdom
225 Posts

Posted - 05/16/2012 :  12:52:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, great trees, I use a similar method but can't get sagebrush in the UK, maybe I will try Gorse. I like the idea of the Sisal secondary branches, hadn't thought of that!

Like you I am new to the Forum and like you I sometimes have problems loading pictures. I have found, as others have mentioned, that size is critical and sometimes I am down to 525x700 to get them to load. Also, what is very important is the name you have the photo stored under, if it won't load and you just get a small square box try renaming the picture to say No 3 or something, it will probably solve the problem.

Carry on the good work, regards, John
Go to Top of Page

Geezer
Fireman

USA
8185 Posts

Posted - 05/16/2012 :  1:02:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice trees Dave, thanks a lot for shasring.
I will be sure to try this one on my layout.....
I will have to see if I can find a supplier for some
sagebrush.....
Thanks again.....

Bill

CC&BW
Wilani Lumber & Mining Co.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=58
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=89
Go to Top of Page

brownbr
Crew Chief

USA
700 Posts

Posted - 05/16/2012 :  4:43:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
thank you. I am going to give this a try.

Bryan
Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2012 :  08:26:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Geezer

Very nice trees Dave, thanks a lot for shasring.
I will be sure to try this one on my layout.....
I will have to see if I can find a supplier for some
sagebrush.....
Thanks again.....



Check above, in the materials and tools list. I put a link there, that you can get sagebrush through.

Thanks

Dave
Go to Top of Page

brownbr
Crew Chief

USA
700 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2012 :  5:05:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I made 2 following your directions (mostly) I'm pleased with the 2nd and the 1st needs a minor rework on the upper branches. I'll post my results over on the St Mary Lumber Co thread.

Thanks for the tutorial.

Bryan
Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2012 :  06:14:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by brownbr

I made 2 following your directions (mostly) I'm pleased with the 2nd and the 1st needs a minor rework on the upper branches. I'll post my results over on the St Mary Lumber Co thread.

Thanks for the tutorial.



That's great! I am looking forward to your posting. It gets better and easier with each tree. But, I have found that because of the medium, mistakes are a very easy redo. I have also found that some mistakes, look great.

Thank you for your reply!

Dave

Edited by - HWCRR on 05/21/2012 06:28:14 AM
Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2012 :  8:05:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I received a phone call from a dear friend yesterday about the pics of the trees I build. He asked: "Are all your trees cut off at the top as in the pics or are there tops to them?" So, for my friend and for you, here is a pic of one of my trees. Yes, they do have tops.



The tops are built in the same manner as the main branching on the tree. Only standing straight up. My apologies for any inconvienience this may have caused. If you have already built some, it is an easy and quick adjustment to your tree.

Thanks

Dave



Go to Top of Page

andykins
Fireman

United Kingdom
3878 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2012 :  06:25:51 AM  Show Profile  Visit andykins's Homepage  Reply with Quote
very nice trees! thanks for the step by step. the bark looks really good too!

"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown
Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper

231 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2012 :  09:29:24 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you andykins. I love making trees! It is my favorite thing to do.

Dave
Go to Top of Page

elwoodblues
Fireman

Canada
4872 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2012 :  10:49:24 AM  Show Profile  Visit elwoodblues's Homepage  Send elwoodblues a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Thanks for the tutorial, easy to make, great looking conifers. Now I just need to find something similar to sagebrush to use.

Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca
Go to Top of Page
Page: of 2 Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-13 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.45 seconds. Snitz Forums 2000