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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
 Posted - 05/27/2012 : 3:39:01 PM
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Thanks for replies Andy, Ron and Hakan, you are right about timing also, now that the nice weather has at last arrived in the UK it would be a shame to waste it modelling. Maybe we could leave this open ended and as and when anyone builds anything out of Card and Paper (it can be any model not just mine) they can post it for comments, what do you think?
John |
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
529 Posts |
Posted - 05/27/2012 : 3:55:07 PM
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Sounds good to me though I was hoping to see how you more in detail build up the outer layer on the building.
I have begun on a Paper creek building with printed texture that I'm gluing up on thick paper. I planning to get some more modeling time next weekend so when I have some progress I'll post some pictures.
Håkan |
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Mike Hamer
Engineer
9343 Posts |
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 05/27/2012 : 4:38:03 PM
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Hakan, you will see this in the next and final part, hopefully I will get around to this tomorrow and Mike, thanks for your comment, its great to get some feedback.
John |
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 3:33:52 PM
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OK, here we go with the final part of the series for making a model from Card and Paper.
So, we have now I hope got our basic structure together so let’s get on with the interesting stuff.
I made a baseboard for my model but I probably won’t use it as mine will go on my Harbour scene which is already planked. If you are using yours as a standalone model then you could add short legs to this board to make a loading area type of structure.
If you are using a light coloured Texture sheet as I am then the cut edges need to be coloured as these will be visible so stick the Texture sheet onto White Card first and then cut the sheet into strips a board and a half wide.
To colour the cut edges I use a Felt Tip Pen of a similar colour as the Texture Sheet, I only have three colours, Light Brown, Dark Brown and Grey which cover most needs and in this case I am using Grey. It’s easy to make a mess of this with the Pen slipping and going all over the face of the Texture Sheet, don’t ask me how I know this!!, so always approach the sheet from the back with the Pen. I hold the Pen vertically and just run the Pen along the edge as per the photo.
There is also an area of Board on the model so we need to scribe the Texture Sheet, in this case we need to stick the Texture Sheet onto a Black card as it’s quite possible the scribing will go through the Texture sheet in places, when that happens we need to see Black showing through to look as though there is a gap in the boards.
Use your scriber and run it down the gaps between the boards to give the gaps depth, use a fair bit of pressure doing this and I usually give two passes of the scriber for a good result. If you are not sure if you have done enough turn the sheet over and you should see strong lines engraved into the backing board.
You may tear the paper doing this until your scriber is “run in” and you have got your eye in as to what angle to hold the scriber, hold it as you would a pen. It’s a good idea to practice on a piece of scrap first, it won’t take long to get the hang of this.
Just to be awkward the picture shows me scribing on White Board but I guess this will give you the right idea.
Here is a wall with the Double Sided Tape in position ready to start planking.
Here we see the backing peeled off the Double Sided Tape and the vertical boards in position on each side of the wall. I put a double thickness of card on these verticals to give them a little more depth, don’t forget to colour the cut edges!!
Here is the planking in process, as you can see the top 1/3rd of each board is used as the overlap to give the Shiplap effect. When doing this try not to be too even, if we want it all to be perfect and even we might as well use styrene but that would give the building no character at all, so vary the Board placing very slightly and then occasionally, again trying not to be too regular about this, put a cut board into the wall for character and realism. DO NOT OVER DO THIS. Don’t draw lines on the wall and stick rigidly to this, do it by eye, you are aiming for a slightly random and uneven effect and if some boards are a bit out of kilter then so much the better. This technique can be very effective and, as you can see, will even cope with very close inspection.
Planked wall finished.
Planking progressing.
Finished but not weathered showing the different finishes.
There you have it, it’s very easy to do, it just takes time, but it gives a very professional model that ANYONE can achieve, no skill needed at all and that suits me just fine!!!
Have a go and, as usual, any comments/criticisms/questions are most welcome as are pictures of your models using these techniques.
John
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 3:38:07 PM
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PS
Forgot to mention, when using scribed Board, as on the overhanging loading area, just cut the finished board to shape and stick it on with whatever glue you have handy but don't forget to also add the vertical boards on each side of the wall.
John |
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
529 Posts |
Posted - 05/29/2012 : 12:54:37 AM
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Very good tutorial, thanks! I have my goal set to build a small shack from a Al Armitage drawing.
Håkan |
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 05/29/2012 : 02:29:42 AM
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Great Hakan, don't forget to let us know how you get on.
John |
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 05/31/2012 : 2:44:28 PM
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Over the years I have greatly admired Bachmann's 2-6-0 Locomotive on layouts I have seen at shows so when a good deal came by a while ago I bought one. When I got it and put it on the layout did I like it? No! It was a horrible shiny plastic lump and just looked wrong so I had to do something about it.
I remembered that I had seen on the internet that you could substitute the 2-6-0 mechanism for an HO 2-8-0 and as I had one of these I did just that. Not quite as simple as I thought as I had to change rods around and what have you but this improved things a lot. A different smokestack, and removal of the airtank improved things also. I also did some work on the cab to jazz it up a little.
Then I looked at the tender which is very plain so some coal boards, real coal and the air tank from the loco improved this area and then a weathering job finished things off nicely, I like the Loco now, what do you think?
John
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hiesler
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
113 Posts |
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 05/31/2012 : 4:25:46 PM
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Hi Max. it literally was a case of a sharp knife and lots of patience. I guess another way to do it is to cut the doors out roughly, smooth out the cuts and then make new doors from plasticard, this would be quite easy to do I think.
Its worth working on this Loco as a little effort turns a real "plain Jane" into a very nice model.
Regards
John |
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BigLars
Fireman
USA
7362 Posts |
Posted - 05/31/2012 : 6:55:03 PM
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| I like it! What HO 2-8-0 drive did you use? |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3871 Posts |
Posted - 06/01/2012 : 03:31:32 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by moore
Its worth working on this Loco as a little effort turns a real "plain Jane" into a very nice model.
Regards
John
couldnt agree more, we've seen so many bashes and detail jobs on this engine that are just wonderful and inspirational. and you've done a wonderful job. the change of chassis works very well |
"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
Sweden
529 Posts |
Posted - 06/01/2012 : 12:34:16 PM
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Great looking locomotive and very nice weathering!
John, here is my first attempt at a paper building using the method you have described. It is a small cabin in HO scale loosely based on an old Armitage drawing. I deviated from your instructions in that I put on the double tape and all the siding in the first step, then I cut out the window openings and cut off the excess siding/tape. The windows came from a kit I had and the door was scratchbuilt. The clapboard I downloaded from Clever Models. The only wood used apart from the windows are the posts. The posts came out a little to large though. As the printed paper was not waterproof I used chalks for weathering.
I liked this method of building very much and it was great fun to build. Next time for variation I'll try Troels method using painted paper/wood instead of printed paper or perhaps a combination of both.
Happy modeling,
Håkan
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moore
Engine Wiper
United Kingdom
225 Posts |
Posted - 06/02/2012 : 2:42:50 PM
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Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate hearing from you all and its nice to know that you like what you see.
To answer Larry's question, its a HO Bachmann 2-8-0 Consolidation chassis, I believe the code numbers for it are 51307 to 51313, as far as I can see the HO and the On30 model share the same chassis (or at least its very similar) its just the wheel arrangement that's different.
And Hakan, WOW! that is a very nice model, very nicely modelled, I like it a lot and thanks for showing it to us.
Andy, you mentioned some time ago a show that your group is holding in early July, do you have dates and a Venue? I would like to get along to see you if I can.
John |
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Fort Wilson and Cold Lake Railroad
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