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wvrr
Fireman
   
5015 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:14:57 AM
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I just thought I would give you an update as to what I have been working on. For years, I have had an MDC Boxcab sitting on the shelf. I have always wanted to build it, since these Boxcabs were a product of a joint venture between Alco, GE, and Ingersoll Rand. And, since I work for Ingersoll Rand, I have always wanted one on the layout.
When I got back into the hobby in 1990, I found one of these models at a train show. But, I wanted to upgrade the details on the model, add lighting, and upgrade the power. I was inspired to do all that after seeing a member of a club I belonged to at the time, do the same to his model.
So, the first thing I did was add a railing on top of the pilot. I also wanted to install a coupler release lever, too, but decided against it. I didn't want to exhaust the four letter word dictionary. I shaved off the molded on grab irons on the sides and next to the doors. Then, I drilled holes for new irons. Oh, and I applied Micro Mark rivet decals to replace the rivets I shaved off when I removed the grab irons.[:-banghead] I also added grab irons to the front and back of the loco.
Yes, there is actually a front and back. What you are looking at is the front. The bell is on the fireman's side of the locomotive, when looking at the front. Plus, there are two stacks (nicknamed squat pots) on the roof. And, they are not spaced symmetrically in the casting in the kit, which is correct. The stacks need to be oriented where they are closer to the front of the engine.
I also removed the tool boxes that were cast into the shell, that drop below the frame. The only value they add is they hold the shell onto the frame when you use the provided gear tower from the kit. Since I am not using the gear tower and tool boxes were not on the prototype, I cut them off. In their place will be an air tank on the fireman's side and a brake cylinder on the engineer's side. There is a second tank, mounted perpendicular to the first one, underneith, that will be added. I found a brake cylinder in my parts box. So, I need to find suitable air tanks or make my own.
I am dumping the motor that came with the kit, completely. I wanted to try a Stanton drive in this one. So, I ordered one from NWSL. A little pricey, but I am using funds from my articles. At least that is how I am justifying it.
This locomotive will find use as an industrial switcher at the Lunde Colliery.
Anyway, I found this wonderful website that contains lots of info on these locos. http://www.cnwhs.org/ageir/ageir.html
Here is another one, but I found this one to be a poorly designed website. Links are broken and you end up getting completely lost on it. But, I will toss it in the mix in case anyone wants to learn new four letter words.[:-banghead] http://sbiii.com/boxcabs.html
And, this third website was something I found the other night. It is by someone who also made modifications to his boxcab. Just some ideas besides my own. http://www.thomasgloger.com/boxcab.htm

So, tonight, I am hoping to paint the shell with Pollyscale Steam Power Black and begin lettering it for my Wyoming Valley. I will wait to paint the frame until after the new power drive is fitted.
Chuck |
Wyoming Valley Railroad http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/ |
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desertdrover
Engineer
    
USA
11268 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:32:10 AM
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| Hey Chuck, you will realy be happy with the Stanton drive units, they are great motor units for just about anything you'll want to power. From re-powering diesels to rolling stock for added power. They make good added power to steamers if placed into the tender or cabooses. When you get the unit, I know you will be back saying it was great! |
Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Ensign
Fireman
   
Canada
3718 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:33:53 AM
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Hey Chuck,I love these old Boxcabs! And I am certain you will do them justice, judging by what you have done so far! I will be following your excellent work along the way.
Greg Shinnie |
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wvrr
Fireman
   
5015 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:36:31 AM
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Great to hear, Louis! I didn't see a lot of reviews when I looked on the web. But, what I did find was positive. I am also thinking of swapping out the drive unit on a Walthers doodlebug with one of these. If I remember, the Walthers doodlebug has a elastic band to connect between the motor and the truck, which I am not a big fan of. The Stanton drive may be a good replacement.
Chuck |
Wyoming Valley Railroad http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/ |
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jatravia
Fireman
   
USA
2521 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:43:10 AM
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I picked up an MDC boxcab kit on Ebay 6 months ago or so. Like so many other projects it is just sitting there. In any case I didn't look close enough at the photos or it wasn't the correct angle or something but I was really after a CNJ boxcab, which like yours, doesn't have end doors. The one I got has end doors. I am going to hold on to it for now but it will probably wind up back on Ebay so I can get the correct shell.
I have spent some time looking at the drive as well and I am interested to hear about the Stanton drive and how you fit it to the shell. It looks like a nice project.
Joe <>< |
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wvrr
Fireman
   
5015 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:45:50 AM
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Joe,
Post a photo of the shell, if you don't mind. I didn't know MDC produced the Boxcab with end doors. I would like to see it!
Chuck |
Wyoming Valley Railroad http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/ |
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desertdrover
Engineer
    
USA
11268 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 12:03:03 PM
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quote: Originally posted by wvrr
Joe,
Post a photo of the shell, if you don't mind. I didn't know MDC produced the Boxcab with end doors. I would like to see it! It looks just like yours, only with (what I call) caboose doors.
Chuck
Chuck, here is a MDC boxcab, and also they made a track cleaner boxcab. I have one like the track cleaner shown. It has end doors like on a caboose. I can take a picture of it if you need to see it. It looks just like yours, only with (what I call) caboose doors.

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Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
Edited by - desertdrover on 03/06/2012 12:09:40 PM |
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wvrr
Fireman
   
5015 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 12:55:03 PM
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Louis,
Thanks, Louis. Mine also came with the track cleaning attachments. But, it is optional to install. I just never knew MDC produced more than one variation of the shell...with and without end doors. If you don't mind, I would love to see what it looks like with the end doors.
Chuck |
Wyoming Valley Railroad http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/ |
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George D
Moderator
    
USA
9913 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 12:55:28 PM
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This looks like it's going to be an interesting build, Chuck. I don't know anything about Stanton drives, but I figure I will by the time you're done.
George |
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desertdrover
Engineer
    
USA
11268 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 1:36:01 PM
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quote: Originally posted by wvrr
Louis,
Thanks, Louis. Mine also came with the track cleaning attachments. But, it is optional to install. I just never knew MDC produced more than one variation of the shell...with and without end doors. If you don't mind, I would love to see what it looks like with the end doors.
Chuck
Here is mine. Both ends have the same door. And a side picture. If it is doors you want, you could always cut out a door between the rivets on yours. With you doing all this to yours, it may push me into doing something with mine now. 

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Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
Edited by - desertdrover on 03/06/2012 1:40:19 PM |
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wvrr
Fireman
   
5015 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 1:44:56 PM
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Wow, thanks Louis. No, I don't want a door on the ends. It was more of a curiosity. That is very cool that MDC produced multiple versions of it. That really surprises me.
Since yours has a cupola in the kit box picture, does it only have one radiator casting? Odd that they decided to add a cupola to the kit.
I do have a question about the Stanton drives, though. I already disassembled the truck sideframes. The sideframes are metal and have pegs that are holding them onto a plastic piece that becomes part of the truck. So, now that I have the metal sideframes isolated, I am wondering how to attach them to the Stanton drives. I wasn't sure if I could drill holes in the side of the Stanton body in order to fit the pegs or if I have to grind off the pegs and glue them to the side of the Stanton drives. Any ideas?
Chuck |
Wyoming Valley Railroad http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/ |
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jatravia
Fireman
   
USA
2521 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 1:54:00 PM
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Yep, that is the kit I have. I was going to build it minus the cleaning parts. I have considered closing up my end door if I do decide to build it and I can't find a replacement. Of course modeling the CNJ unit is only practical if I am building the Bronx Terminal ... we'll see. Anyone want to buy a boxcab kit? 
Joe <>< |
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desertdrover
Engineer
    
USA
11268 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 3:46:22 PM
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quote: Originally posted by wvrr
Wow, thanks Louis. No, I don't want a door on the ends. It was more of a curiosity. That is very cool that MDC produced multiple versions of it. That really surprises me.
Since yours has a cupola in the kit box picture, does it only have one radiator casting? Odd that they decided to add a cupola to the kit.
I do have a question about the Stanton drives, though. I already disassembled the truck sideframes. The sideframes are metal and have pegs that are holding them onto a plastic piece that becomes part of the truck. So, now that I have the metal sideframes isolated, I am wondering how to attach them to the Stanton drives. I wasn't sure if I could drill holes in the side of the Stanton body in order to fit the pegs or if I have to grind off the pegs and glue them to the side of the Stanton drives. Any ideas?
Chuck
I had posted a picture of the drive unit here; http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35292 most times you just glue the sideframes on. You can drill and tap as well, but have to be carefull doing that. |
Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
Edited by - desertdrover on 03/06/2012 3:46:52 PM |
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wvrr
Fireman
   
5015 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 4:09:59 PM
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Thanks, Louis. I figured you had to be careful, since you don't know what is on the other side of the plastic wall. I will see once I get the drives to determine what I will do. Thanks for the link to the photo. I think it is a better shot of it than on the NWSL site, since it shows how open the sides are on the drive unit.
And, I just realized why my kit has light fixtures on a sprue. My shell has the light fixtures cast in. But, I can see from your version, the light fixture is not cast into the shell.
Chuck |
Wyoming Valley Railroad http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/ |
Edited by - wvrr on 03/06/2012 4:12:14 PM |
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Dutchman
Administrator
    
USA
23230 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 5:07:35 PM
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Guys, before buying the NWSL power units, I think I will try using my MDC kit #2797 (Box Cab Diesel Conversion Kit). It has a heavy metal frame to replace the kit's frame, and a flywheel for the motor.
Has anyone tried this 'conversion'?
Here is a list of all the offerings that MDC had for its box cabs back in the '70's.
Download Attachment: MDC Box Cab Offerings..doc 62.39 KB |
Bruce
Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
    
USA
11268 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 6:35:44 PM
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quote: Originally posted by Dutchman
Guys, before buying the NWSL power units, I think I will try using my MDC kit #2797 (Box Cab Diesel Conversion Kit). It has a heavy metal frame to replace the kit's frame, and a flywheel for the motor.
Has anyone tried this 'conversion'?
Here is a list of all the offerings that MDC had for its box cabs back in the '70's.
Download Attachment: MDC Box Cab Offerings..doc 62.39 KB
Bruce my not sure they still have those conversion kits available. Do they? |
Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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