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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
 Posted - 07/09/2012 : 2:13:33 PM
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Sunday Progress - It's alive!
Spent 6 hours Sunday concentrating on laying track, wiring drops and installing turn-outs (3). Bridge at Elk's Creek in in-place (removable) as is the Bridge 2 at Elks Creek. Pulled out my c-19 (leased from DRGW due to increased traffic) to test. My K-27 refused to run, looking into what the issue is now.
Here are some pictures:
Elks Creek Bridge with C-19 heading across. Need to add pick-ups to bridge after I figure out what connectors to use. Forgive the picture quality using iphone. One set of LED's was acting up so 1 section too yellow.
Bridge.
Passing siding heading up grade to Forks Creek.
I like this picture as is shows forward movement of loco.
Bridge 2
C-19 heading upgrade to Beaver Brook.
New hand-laid turn-out at Beaver Brook.
All in all a satisfying day. Wired 1/2 a dozen power drops and the turn-outs worked well.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
Edited by - CBryars2 on 07/09/2012 2:16:15 PM |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/09/2012 : 7:11:36 PM
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K-27 all healed!
One of the low points to Sunday was my Blackstone K-27 would not run. At full throttle it would move about 1/4" stop then move again. C-19 ran fine so was not the track.
Went on HON3Chat Forum and Earle suggested I put the DCC K-27 on a DC power pack to the locomotive pins 1&8. Run at 12v and see if blue smoke came out. Apparently Blackstone had some first release K-27's that had too much oil.
To say I was nervous was a major understatement. Did just as Earle (Forum name) recommended. At first ran very poor then it started picking up speed, and just as described out came blue smoke. Ran til smoke cleared.
Took out to the layout and it ran like a top!
Way to go Earle. Saved me sending back to Blackstone with a possible large bill for motor replacement. Here are some pictures:
K-27 running past siding.
K-27 coming up to Beaver Brook.
K-27 on Elks Creek Bridge 1
Very happy to get her running again. All-in-all not a bad beginning of the week!
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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Vagel Keller
Crew Chief
USA
722 Posts |
Posted - 07/11/2012 : 2:33:04 PM
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Somehow I missed this thread until now. Great progress is such a short time, Cameron. Keep up the good work!
Vagel |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/11/2012 : 5:30:14 PM
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Thanks Vagel.
Any helpful comments always welcome. I'm a greenhorn so lots to learn.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/12/2012 : 3:08:58 PM
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Forks Creek Bridge.
Stuck inside so mainly doing kits builds and re-motoring a brass HON3 loco.
Made some headway on the Forks Bridge I thought I might share. It is a kit bash of the Central Vally Pratt Truss Bridge. Made 2 bridges from the kit, one for Elks Creek and the second for Forks Creek. Modifying for Narrow Gauge and adding walk ways as on the original.
I expect this will be a placeholder until I get good enough to scratch build one. While it is a reasonable likeness, it does not quite have the right look.
Also managed to fix my shorted out strand of LED lighting on the layout.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/12/2012 : 3:19:14 PM
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Got a deal
Picked up a copy of C & S ng: Colorado & Southern narrow gauge by Mallory Hope Ferrell for 3 bucks on amazon used. Said average condition. It arrived and was in really good shape. No dust jacket but that is no big deal.
Some really good C&S info along with a ton of pictures.
Woot - my lucky day.
Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 12:57:42 PM
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Sunday Update.
Not a lot to show for 5-6 hours work. Spent time fixing LED's for Deck 1 of the middle peninsula and wiring turn-outs.
Was a real struggle getting frogs working as desired. 2 are completed with 1 in progress and another one to go.
The K-27 runs well through turn-outs, the c-19 struggles a little. It is much picker about electrical pick-up. On some of the turn-outs the sound stutters annoyingly. I think I need to clean the tender contacts some. CRC'd the track so that helped.
Figure 1 more session on the turn-outs and I will be able to move on to the mounting the bridge at Forks Creek.
Also spent some time with small castings to use on the creek as rapids. Will use either water effects or clear chalk to model the rushing water.
Sorry no pictures yet worth sharing.
I did order the figures for the Barkeeps Tavern, probably be a week or so to get in. Photo in Salene's Tavern postings.
Thanks OD |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2012 : 1:00:01 PM
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Weekend Update 22-Jul-2012
Got in about 5-6 hours this weekend. Spent too much time Beta testing some software so not much progress on the old work bench.
Turn-outs till are taking forever to work the kinks out. Wiring, redoing turn-out controls, and replacing throw-bars. Taking my time here as I trashed old layout and started fresh on this one specifically to have reliable running. One of the turn-outs turned out nicely with both c19 and k27 navigating reliably. Still have an issue with k-27 pilot derailing on a turn, think track is banked a little, so shimming work to do there. Track transitions are getting better, having to trim and shim some.
This is my best turn-out to-date. SPST switch on turn-out control (bullfrog) working. C19 still stutters sound here.
Did get to temp mount the partially complete Forks Creek bridge. Cuts done and abutment in place. Roughed in first part of Forks Creek scenery and laid out builds to get a feel for final product.
Roughed in Creek with partial bridge.
Forks Creek laid out. Section house to be scratch built and water tank in-progress.
Used zip texturing as described by Joe Fugate at MRH e-zine. Having places where tempura paint is in small blobs that leave color concentrated in dots. Shifted colors and plaster and still having some problems. need to figure out how to eliminate that issue.
Here is the C19 to show a more finished look.
To minimize burn-out in any one area, plan to work on Forks Creek more while fiddling with turn-outs. Jack from the HON3Chat forum provided some nice plans I can use for Beaver Brook water tank, he built one and it looks excellent.
This is the Beaver Brook Water Tank as built by Jack. His website is http://www.canonicalblue.org/BlackhawkCentralCity/. Jack has done some excellent work on his layout, he builds everything from scratch and does some really good work.
Finding this Forum and a couple others provide excellent advise that is helping over come issues as I encounter them.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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George D
Moderator
USA
9910 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2012 : 1:33:18 PM
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Cameron, I'm just getting caught up on your rapid progress.[:-thumbu]
Are you sliding the wooden ties under the rail after you put the switch in place?
George |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2012 : 3:08:39 PM
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George,
Thanks for commenting. On my first 15 turn-outs I used Fast-tracks quik switch ties. I struggled with getting this to anchor well. So last 10 or so I made with PCB ties only and then started adding ties under turn-out. So far seems to work better for me, but always trying to learn.
The turn-outs take me about 1-2 hours to build (I'm pretty slow). had to go back and wire the ones I made, in doing so learned alot. Installing on layout takes me a long time, guess it is learning curve. Have mounted 4, only 1 fully working.
I enjoy scenery most. Track laying is a chore for me, so I have to break up what I work on in little chunks.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
Edited by - CBryars2 on 07/23/2012 3:09:04 PM |
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George D
Moderator
USA
9910 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2012 : 8:58:23 PM
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Thanks, Cameron. I've been working at building turnouts without the Fast Tracks jig, and I've reached the point where I need to think of ways to mount them. Do you put shims under the copper ties?
George |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2012 : 9:20:18 PM
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George
That works, or under the roadbed itself. Either way ballast covers it. Use styrene to fill gaps in rails. MicroMark makes a really nice electronic grade tool, works both with rail or across. On sale right now for < 30. It helps the level and transition alot. Only about 3" long so fits in small places, sure beats a bubble level.
One item I noticed is FasttTracks recommends 4 gaps, 2 before frog, two after. This really weakens the turn-out. If you gap the inside rails (track running left to right) this removes the need to gap after from. Outer rails can be soldered allowing better alignment.
Saves a wire after the frog also. Used magnet wire to go from Other rail to points to ensure power.
Only issue I have is the stuttering C-19 right now, K-27 runs very well.
Let me know, I could be wrong but got this wiring arrangement from a friend on HON3Chat.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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nhguy
Fireman
USA
3665 Posts |
Posted - 07/24/2012 : 01:30:29 AM
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Looking good Cameron. Are you adding any alcohol to the spray mixture? That will help with the spotting problem using tempura paint. You have to mist lightly and once it gets damp wet it down, then glue it. I think maybe the spotting issue might be from the sprayer itself dipping.
Comment on your turnout. If you think cutting gaps in your track weakens it then add more supports by soldering in more ties. With the 4 gaps cut down on the length of the frog. Keep the length of the frog short like just before and just after the frog wings or just after where the rails form a "V". Glue in some plastic with CA to fill the gap and it will be strong. I don't know what size rail you are using but I try and find older black or brown Atlas turnouts and use the plastic guard rails to fill in the rail gaps. It's already shaped to the rail. |
Bill Shanaman
Superintendent, New Haven RR in the 1948 to 1952 era
PMRA President 2013-14, OpSIG Member
NCE User Since 1999
Sugar City, Colorado |
Edited by - nhguy on 07/24/2012 01:32:39 AM |
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George D
Moderator
USA
9910 Posts |
Posted - 07/24/2012 : 08:00:32 AM
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Cameron, I wasn't clear with my shim question. I'm referring to shims under the copper ties to compensate for the larger thickness of the wood ties.
I don't have a problem of weakness when I cut my gaps. Here's what my frog looks like:
George |
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CBryars2
Engine Wiper
USA
379 Posts |
Posted - 07/24/2012 : 6:24:24 PM
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Good shot George.
I use micro engineering ties and am not having any issues with shimming. Fit perfect. Used cork roadbed, wanted to use homasote but hard to get in Atlanta. So I started with Plywood and covered with black board, similar to homabed but easy to find. Jury is still out if this is a good solution. I used more of a cookie cutter approach due to way clear creek lies, no big drops below rail.
Using chalk or titebond to glue ties in and then when dry ca to rails.
Hope that is a better answer. Out turn-outs look good, I am now also adding 1 pcb tie before frog cut and one after, sure makes a difference in strength.
One issue I have had pop up is I run my hole for the throw rod to the side, not in middle. Goal was to use that to also throw small brass harp switch stands as I throw turn-out. seems to break easier and harder to align. Had 2 turn-out point pcb ties break loose. Had to resolder.
I'm probably doing something wrong so any ideas appreciated.
Thanks Cameron |
Cameron \ OD
Denver Golden & Clear Creek Railroad
www.dgccrr.blogspot.com |
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Denver, Golden and Clear Creek - 3 decks of fun
