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BigLars
Fireman
USA
7482 Posts |
 Posted - 04/30/2012 : 7:14:33 PM
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Nice progress my Brudda. Best to get the track work perfect before you do the scenery so the fix will be well worth it.
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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8291 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2012 : 06:34:28 AM
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Thanks Larry.....I spent most of the evening and part of
the afternoon yesterday, testing engines. All the shays
now make the turns without problems, but I did find two with gear issues.
(I have 6 OEM + 2 BVM Shay conversions) I did a re-install of the decoder
in my 2-6-0 Mogul w/plow and installed a new headlight. Also found
another "finicky frog" which I will tend to today, as long as its raining!! Grrrrrr!
I have made a "Rip-Track" shelf on the far wall that holds everything
that has something wrong with it and needs tending, mostly rolling stock.
Am considering adding a hidden storage area for all the loco's that arent running
on the layout.....Thanks for stopping by brudda......
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Bill
CC&BW
Wilani Lumber & Mining Co.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=58
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=89 |
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BigLars
Fireman
USA
7482 Posts |
Posted - 06/03/2012 : 08:56:15 AM
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The Tagish & Marsh Lake have some surplus 18" gauge mine equipment that will be sent via the Consolidated Narrow Gauge Route south to PA for future use.
I understand the driver like to eat fish so feed him well Bill.
The train is slightly less than 6" long, the couplers are link and pin. I have used track spikes for the pins in the picture which can be cut shorter when you go to place the train on the layout. |
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MinerFortyNiner
Fireman
USA
2028 Posts |
Posted - 06/04/2012 : 1:35:24 PM
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Kewl little mine train...LOVE that link and pin stuff!
Geezer, my 'dead line' on the bad-order track is longer than my line of operational locos. Sad to say, I need to get on that as well! |
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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8291 Posts |
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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8291 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 10:49:57 AM
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Trying to dp my first attempt ac casting parts
turned out to be a disaster!
I have learnd a few things -
First make a better guess at how much RTV you need to mis -
I had about a third too much and now I have a pretty blue paperw weight!
Second you really need to secure your parts to what ever base you are using -
I found out how much "Creep" the sylicone has when you pour it.
I have a neat 1/2" thick 6" square thingie I can set the pretty blue paperweight on.
I am undaunted by this fiasco, and will try again, but will see what I can use
to secure the things to the base. FYI: Arlene's tacky glue don't cut it!
I'm gonna go eat.....drink a beer....and go clean the garage......
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Bill
CC&BW
Wilani Lumber & Mining Co.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=58
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=89 |
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visman48
Fireman
USA
4507 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 11:09:40 AM
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Bill,
Post some pictures of your casting project, and maybe we can help. Yes you might over guess on the volume of RTV that you make, thats kinda okay, some types of parts need a bulkier RTV base. Yes undercuts will be a deamon on your casting project. And if you find a way of sticking down your master/orginal, do share. I have used walthers GOO (workds okay but just depends on the part) I have ACCed, I have used double stickyback tape. If you get some RTV bleed under, just trim R off with small sissors.
Don't give up, get even and try it again. Those that have seen my RTV molds know they ain't pretty.
Les |
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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8291 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 3:41:14 PM
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Ok..you asked for it....(Wasn't that an old TV show??)
Here is a shot of the "overage" first and then the new "Desk Set"
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Ta-Daaaaa!
Aint she purdy????
And, here's what the "Novice mold" turned out to be like:
And, of course when I went to take the flimsy yellow bieces out of the mold, they crumbled like sugar. They werent stuck, just not good castings to begin with.
So now, I have to see what I can use to secure the pieces to the glass, so the RTV done seep underneath. Any help would be appreciated.....
I'll be back, going to the RRL swap meet and list a huge turntable that I will never use.
Comments/advice always welcome. |
Bill
CC&BW
Wilani Lumber & Mining Co.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=58
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=89 |
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mabloodhound
Fireman
USA
4670 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 4:25:24 PM
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Bill, I used a styrene base and sides and glued the parts right to the styrene base. Glued the sides on and poured. My first one came out great.
I'm going to try double sided tape next to hold the parts.
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Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
“Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin
The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
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BigLars
Fireman
USA
7482 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 6:36:57 PM
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Bill,
Your mold can be saved, wait till Les confirms but you should just be able to trim off the rubber that ran under the part. I use a small pair of nail sissors when this happens to me.
I stick my parts down with thin 3m douple sided tape. I forget the part number but is is clear. |
Edited by - BigLars on 06/06/2012 7:01:37 PM |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
Canada
4960 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 09:03:14 AM
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Bill, if the mold wold have came out perfect the first time, you would not have learned anything. 
Here is my very condensed mold making 101 course, you mileage my vary but this is what works for me.
(Disclaimer) first off I don't tend to make molds of commercial products as the cost of the material to make the RTV molds vs the cost of the parts has shown me that it's cheaper to buy the commercial parts.
Like Dave I make my mold boxes out of .060 styrene. I have a ton of it lying around so it is very cheap for me.
I sand the surface of the master that will be glued to the bottom of the mold box and glue it to the bottom of the box with ACC. I have found that because I don't shake my molds when I pour the RTV I just need to hold the master in place.
In order to figure out how much RTV I need to mix for the mold I first fill the box with water which is then poured into a measuring cup. This gives me the volume required.
When measuring our the RTV required I use a digital postal scale. The reason for this is I prefer to use 10:1 ratio RTV and the measurements need to be accurate.
When pouring the RTV I hold the material about 6-8" above the top of the mold box and pour with a very thin stream. This tend to eliminate any air bubbles that mat occur.
If the directions state that it takes 6 hours to set, I wait 12 hrs before I remove the mold from the mold box.
That is it in a nutshell. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'm sure you will get great answers.
Now as for your mold, if you going to use it to cast scrap parts, just trim the access rubber and cast away. If they are to used to build something you may want to make another mold as the sanding of the pieces required may not be worth the effort. I've been know to remake a mold when I have found that the cast part did not turn out as expected.
Oh, and finally, welcome to the wonderful world of mold making, where anything is possible.
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Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
Canada
4960 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 09:05:11 AM
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Oh, I forgot to add, nice paperweight.
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Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca |
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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8291 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 12:29:54 PM
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Thanks for the help Ron! Especially the part about using water to figure the
amount of RTV you need. As I use a 50/50 product, I would only devide the
water volume in half to get where I am going.I have some 060. styrene as well and
will give that a try.....I will post pictures when all th is happens.
I just want to thank all you regular forum guys (FNG's too)that have supported
me along this journey....The time has come for me to make a MAJOR decision:
While working under the layout, trying to figure which wire goes where, I soon realised that
I really was dumb for not being neater....The underside of the layour looks
like an explosion in a spaghetti factory!!!
SO: Here's the deal-
I will remove everything except the tortoise wiring from the layout...That has it's
own buss.... I will install three new buss's, one for each power district, and keep it simple and neat.Each district will have its own colors, ie. District 1 red/black, District 2 Blue/White and
District 3 Green/Yellow.....The drops in each district will correspond with the
buss colors....Lots of work, but I will be able to work on the problems when they arrise.
So, if the geezer ain't around too much, not to worry....I will be lurking and
will interject a comment now and then....Thanks again,
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Bill
CC&BW
Wilani Lumber & Mining Co.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=58
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=89 |
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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8291 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2012 : 12:39:53 PM
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This morning, I started the project of rewiring the layout.
Not very interesting subject, but here's a couple pictures, just to dust off this thread:
Just a partial shot of all the wiring I will be using....I have about a dozen rolls of 20 ga and 6 rolls of 18GA for the 3 new buss's.
I have the PM-42 correctly wired with a new edge connector, This time, I took time to measure wire length, do a neat solder job, and use some shrink tubing just for safety sake. It works great, so far.
Above is "Ol # 3, Lulabelle" she is my tester and has braved the fray so far. She has 3 cracked gears, and cant move around too fast....
but, I would rather give this one up (fried) than one that is running great, with NWSL gears.
This time around, I have taken a new precaution: I had some thin styrene laying around, so I cut a bunch of 1" squares and punched a corner with an old bus driver's punch. I have started labeling the first district, attaching the tags at appropriate locations using wire ties.
So....that's about it for now...back under the benchwork....I'll be back.....Thanks for looking in.... |
Bill
CC&BW
Wilani Lumber & Mining Co.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=58
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=89 |
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shayman
Section Hand
USA
89 Posts |
Posted - 06/24/2012 : 11:21:47 AM
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Geez,
Nice work, as always.!!! Saw something the other day that might make labeling the wire easier. Take some of those little plastic pieces that are on bread wrappers. One side has writing, the other doesn't. The way they're made you can clip them right onto a piece of wire, write on it, and wala. Just a thought.
Mike |
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Wilani Lumber & Mining Co. vol. 2
