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 SWSM Twin Mills...one more time!
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UKGuy
Fireman

USA
5428 Posts

Posted - 08/23/2011 :  6:43:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I like the window opening inwardly from the top, nice touch!

Looking great.

Karl.A
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BillMichaels
Engine Wiper

USA
249 Posts

Posted - 08/24/2011 :  2:06:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks again Elliott, Frederic and Karl--
Here's how the layout of the log pond looks along with the dam:







Then it was on to the Old Mill Dock and the Flat Car table. Not difficult to build...just more to it than meets the eye. I tried to make the wood look sun-bleached and fairly beat up. The manual even makes reference to a "run away log" taking out one of the timbers on the side of the flat car table (note the big timber to the right):





Here's the view from the back looking out of the mill:



...and in position on the pond:


Edited by - BillMichaels on 08/24/2011 7:19:19 PM
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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
16456 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  03:41:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I suppose that the addition of the pond base must just make everything even more exciting, Bill.
I like the dock and table. The worn timber is a good detail.

Frederic Testard
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milocomarty
Fireman

Netherlands
4927 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  03:46:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit milocomarty's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good looking build so far !! I'll be watching your next steps..

Grtz Martin..
http://cardiganbaycoastalrailroad.wordpress.com/
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jaynjay
Fireman

USA
4340 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  06:20:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For a lack of better words; does the wood 'seawall' come with the kit? Great build so far


John
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BillMichaels
Engine Wiper

USA
249 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  12:46:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Frederic-
Roughing in the pond sure gives me a better measurement and see where I'm going and how things will fit--a GOOD feeling for sure!

Martin-
Thanks for following along. There's LOTS more to come.

John-
The sea wall material is included. It' just 1/4" square stock that you cut to fit (all the instructions to make it like I did are included).

I'll post more later today/tonight...
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BillMichaels
Engine Wiper

USA
249 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  3:43:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One more thing to share...when I built the floor for the drying shed I again used pieces of 1/4" guide wood to keep things square. The thickness of the 10x10's makes it a little tricky to align the 4x8's with the template below. I held the 10x10's to the waxpaper with double sided tape and squared them up with stripwood guides. Then, I used the butt end of 2 other pieces of guide wood to locate the exact placement of the 4x8's:





Then, it's just a matter of sliding the 2 guide pieces to the next lines, lay down some drops of glue and tuck the 4x8 against the butt end of the guides:





This worked pretty good...better than trying to "eyeball" it with the lines below. To lay the decking, I used popsicle sticks to elevate the guides a little. That made them just tall enough so that the decking could butt right up to them:



And here's the finished shed floor:




Bill


Edited by - BillMichaels on 08/25/2011 5:37:23 PM
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UKGuy
Fireman

USA
5428 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  5:11:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Simplistic genius...
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reklein
Engine Wiper

USA
233 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  9:26:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is a nice build, If it were a real mill I bet that a screen of vertical 2x8s would be placed on the front of the dock to keep the runaway logs out of there. I spent 28 years in southeast Alaska and such was often the case. Bill ,now in Idaho
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BillMichaels
Engine Wiper

USA
249 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2011 :  10:23:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by reklein

This is a nice build, If it were a real mill I bet that a screen of vertical 2x8s would be placed on the front of the dock to keep the runaway logs out of there. I spent 28 years in southeast Alaska and such was often the case. Bill ,now in Idaho



Thanks for that info, Bill. That probably would be the case, but I'm assuming OSHA hadn't stepped in (or even existed) during the era I'm modeling. Thanks for checking in on the build and keep watching...there's still a LONG way to go!
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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
16456 Posts

Posted - 08/26/2011 :  03:39:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I don't think there were vertical boards on the Pino Grande mill, but I'm not sure Mich-Cal was very eager to follow safety rules...
Very clever use of simple jigs, Bill.

Frederic Testard
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BillMichaels
Engine Wiper

USA
249 Posts

Posted - 08/27/2011 :  2:05:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The Flat Car Ramp has probably been the most challenging part of the build so far. The legs all need to be cut at an angle and to the correct length to match the depth of the pond. Gluing them in place was also a little tricky because of how the ramp needs to stand on edge and a square won't help line the legs up. One thing that was helpful from Mike E's build (runner) was to make a mirror image of the ramp template. After the legs for the first side were glued, you flip it over and line it up on the mirror image template to do the legs for the opposite side.









Next up was the Dry Rollway. The huge logs would get dumped off the flat car and onto this structure. Obviously, it would take a lot of abuse. To model that, I heavily grained/distressed the 16x16 timbers and rather than just round off the corners, I beat 'em good! I tried to crush them in a way that would compact the grain of the timbers--much like it would look if a huge tree fell on it. I banged up the corners with the edge of a hammer and polished up the wood with steel wool. In some spots, I gouged the timbers with the handle of an exacto knife. This left a good sized dent and a cool looking black scuff mark (not sure if it's from the steel wool particles getting rubbed by the aluminum knife handle, or what).







For the legs, I wanted to simulate the water-logged look you sometimes see on boat piers. After giving them a deep scribing with an awl and attaching them to bottom, I flipped the whole thing over and dripped A/I onto the bottoms of the legs. Then dabbed on a paste of black chalk and alcohol:



Once again I dripped on more A/I so that the black chalk would "wick" up the legs. I learned that you don't want the let chalk and alcohol paste dry at all or it leaves a straight line (in the time it took to take the picture above, enough alcohol evaporated leaving an unnatural black line). Fortunately, it'll be hidden by the pond water. Anyway, here's what it looks like all together:





Bill
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ETinBH
Fireman

USA
4242 Posts

Posted - 08/27/2011 :  2:54:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That'll work!
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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
16456 Posts

Posted - 08/29/2011 :  05:16:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very good hard weathering and wearing on these timbers. The black bottoms are superb.

Frederic Testard
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hon3_rr
Fireman

USA
4692 Posts

Posted - 08/29/2011 :  10:49:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great technique to obtain the coloring on the bents. This is one I'll have to make a note of.

--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to.
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