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ETinBH
Fireman
USA
4267 Posts |
 Posted - 05/23/2011 : 6:57:02 PM
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Sometimes it helps to see the real thing to get color perspective and all - here is a picture of the metal shop at the Sturgeon Mill. This is an active shop and these things are used during the maintenance and repair.
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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4776 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2011 : 7:16:10 PM
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Plants included? And the steering wheel is a nice touch. Wonder if that hub cap goes to the same car as the steering wheel?
Really Elliott, all kidding aside, this is an outstanding resource reference picture! Love the old drawers and the coloring of their wood faces standing to the left of the main shelving unit. Looks like they have that oily-dust covering which I recall, but had forgotten about.
Thanks for sharing this picture. |
--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
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deemery
Fireman
USA
3735 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2011 : 02:16:45 AM
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Thanks for the shot. Can someone explain the use of ivy? :-)
dave |
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ETinBH
Fireman
USA
4267 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2011 : 10:30:35 AM
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Hi Dave - here is a pic of the building - as you can see, nature is slowly swallowing the thing. The ivy has found spaces in the walls and has invaded the interior. There is also two pane-less windows. The sign is not part of the original building but it does eliminate lots of stupid questions by visitors. lol
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wesleybeks
Fireman
South Africa
2254 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2011 : 10:41:04 AM
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| That last picture would make an awesome scene to model. |
Regards
Wes.
Dont leave for tomorrow what you can do today. |
Edited by - wesleybeks on 05/24/2011 10:42:27 AM |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
France
16524 Posts |
Posted - 05/26/2011 : 05:28:33 AM
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The comparison between the two pictures posted by Elliott is interesting. While both show places currently used, the colors are quite different. Almost monochromatic in the second picture where everything is brown or close to brown, showing on the contrary many shades in the first one - even if brown remains dominant. Modelling wise, I think it's not a bad idea to have these more visible colors inside a building, in a less visible area and keep things more subdued on the outside parts, as is the case in Elliott's pics.
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Frederic Testard |
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deemery
Fireman
USA
3735 Posts |
Posted - 05/26/2011 : 05:47:19 AM
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But also remember that our models are not portrayed in bright sunlight. So we have to add contrast and shadow by painting and washes, etc to emphasize light and shadow. That's one of the neat things about Troels Kirk's work, is how much tonal difference he gets (for example, his most recent hotel that is all in various tones of white, cream, light gray, etc.)
dave |
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Pennman
Crew Chief
USA
644 Posts |
Posted - 05/27/2011 : 12:10:29 PM
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Kevin,
I have been reading your posts with much interest. I am new to painting castings and mine are not achieving the same results as yours do. Perhaps it is because I flooded my castings with too much A & I, and did not allow them to dry properly before proceeding. I think the secret is in what type of brush to use and how you load it, as you said. I will follow along more closly and hopefully learn to do this as these are models too.
And..thanks for fond memories of working on the farm with my Dad, and seeing that long-forgotten oil bottle, again. I haven't even remembered that since the fifties. Thanks.
Rich |
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angelanzus
Engine Wiper
USA
366 Posts |
Posted - 05/30/2011 : 08:32:05 AM
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Thank you for this superb thread - it makes me want to get out my detail parts and get them painted and weathered up!
Thank you too for the photos of the "real thing" - always good to look at those too.
Angela |
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Nelson458
Crew Chief
USA
818 Posts |
Posted - 05/30/2011 : 10:49:49 AM
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I hope you all don't mind me jumping in. I've been watching this with great interest. In fact, you all have convinced me to get some paints I would not have normally bought, And I really like them.
I am building a Salvage yard, and one casting I am adding to it is from Rusty Rails castings. I modified it a little to fit a particular area, and weathered it to look like it was sitting there for a while. I still want to add some more weeds and a few oil cans etc, but here is what I have so far. I used both Vallejo paints for a few small details, and mostly Dr. Ben's powders, on everything. I used AI on the scratchbuilt wood cab, and that was it, and I think this is the first time I haven't doused everything in AI solution.
Tony Burgess
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Oliver W. Jr.
Engine Wiper
267 Posts |
Posted - 05/30/2011 : 3:59:03 PM
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| Those derelict locomotives look really nice, especially the one with the decaying wood cab. The vegetation creeping in to reclaim them is very natural. |
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Nelson458
Crew Chief
USA
818 Posts |
Posted - 05/30/2011 : 4:13:26 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Oliver W. Jr.
Those derelict locomotives look really nice, especially the one with the decaying wood cab. The vegetation creeping in to reclaim them is very natural.
Thank you, most of the vegetation stuff I bought from Scenic Express.
Tony |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
France
16524 Posts |
Posted - 05/30/2011 : 5:10:59 PM
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Apart from the nice decoration work, I am always impressed by the ability of some manufacturers to make some incredibly shaped castings.
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onl26
Fireman
USA
1283 Posts |
Posted - 06/01/2011 : 12:50:04 PM
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Hey Guys
As many of you know I'm battling some health issues so I'd like to report that the Dr's are very happy with the results they see after my second round of chemo-embolization. The weather has finally been really nice here in Mamaroneck, NY so even though I am pretty fatiqued from the teatments I can't resist the sun and my many outdoor activities. I've been playing golf, kayaking, and have even managed a couple of games of softball. Needless to say I've been sleeping like a baby every night. So all that cuts into my time at the work bench but I do have a little something to contribute and some comments on some on your contributions.
First off, thanks to Elliott for the great pics of the cabinets. We had an old horse barn in my back yard that was converted to house a couple of cars and it also had a work space in the back. It had some shelves that look exactly like the ones in Elliotts pic. When you stood next to the shelves in my barn you could smell the grease and oil and rust and grime. You can see a couple of different eras in this pic. The old brown shelves and boxes that have been there forever filled with all sorts of parts and junk and greasy rags. Then comes the later additions of the coffe cans, cookie tins and even that car washing mop on the left. Just like in my garage where the outside siding started to rot away, the vines found there way inside. This brings me to the bright and shiny question once again. I know they are right there in front of us to see but I personally would not model some of the more modern and shiny cans and tins. Again, I just don't think they scale down very well and if you do model them they tend to be the only things you would see on a shelf like this. So I guess my 2 cents here is color is fine but tone it down and try and stay away from shiny. The thing to really study in Elliotts pic is the overall brown tones of the shelves and boxes. If you go back and look at the bench and cabinet I did earlier I think we are pretty close. So I think you can all achieve the same natural look with just a few of the chalks I've been using and some judicious use of our A&I.
Rich, post a few pics and just keep at it. The good thing is if it doesn't turn out the way you like you can strip the casting and try again.
Angela, I'm glad your enjoying this and same thing, post some pics.
Tony, that's a neat little scene and I like the way things look naturally buried. As a critique I have to say that the yellow tone of your rust just doesn't look right to my eye and it is a bit too thick in some spots. It also looks splotchy in spots rather then blended naturally. You can see what I mean on some of the stacks. The shot of the decaying cab and backhead is great. The way the foliage is taking over looks very nice. The rust on the backhead is a little heavy but the color looks better to me. As mentioned in the beginning of the thread I use powdered Rembrandt chalks only and my go to dark rust color is Burnt Sienna #411.3. For a lighter rust color I use an equal mix of Orange #235.3 and Burnt sienna #411.5.
Thanks for the continuing contributions to this thread.
Kevin
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UKGuy
Fireman
USA
5448 Posts |
Posted - 06/01/2011 : 12:58:05 PM
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Great to hear you are out and about and enjoying the sunshine Kevin. I'd also be sleeping like a baby if I was doing all that.
Thanks also for explaining you thoughts and ideas in reference to the protopics. I find them very insightful, educational and thought provoking.
I look forward to your further casting progress and instruction, when, of course, you find the time and can squeeze a little modelling into your schedule.
Best wishes and take care,
Karl. |
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Painting, weathering and detailing castings.
