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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

New Zealand
1206 Posts

Posted - 10/03/2019 :  3:02:57 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Hi guys.

Well - a little progress.

I have put together two of the sub assembles for the 'gap' diorama. One is using walls from a Magnuson powerhouse and the other uses the front wall of a Walthers sugar refinery.

Below is the powerhouse kit-bash. This required removal of flash from around the openings and filing of the 45 degree walls to get a good fit. The side walls were trimmed to length. Because of the position of the corner pillars, no putty was required. I added strip wood and two floors to add strength and help straighten the resin walls.


Below is the Sugar refinery kit-bash. I have positioned the bash in front of the kit box so you can see the front wall. I trimmed the two end columns of windows off to make the width narrower and then used the left off-cut as the right side and visa versa. This meant I had factory 45 degree cuts on the two side walls. I then filed the two edges of the front wall to a 45 degree angle. Once glued together I added a base and roof, and intermediate floors (the thickness of the styrene less in depth) and then made up a back which fits in between the base and the roof. The edges were then taped and puttied, trimmed and sanded.


The two bashes have been washed and I am hoping to get a coat of primer on them soon. Just waiting for the sun to melt the frost and warm things up a bit.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Edited by - mark_dalrymple on 10/03/2019 3:06:12 PM
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Bill Gill
Fireman

USA
3046 Posts

Posted - 10/03/2019 :  5:13:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mark, You probably already know this, but years ago Art Curren had an article in MR about a small layout with a center viewblock that was all double sided, kit bashed city and industrial structures.
It was simple, yet very impressive. It might be included in his Kalmbach book; Kitbashing HO Model Railroad StructuresI can't find a link to any examples or remember the name of the layout, but someone on the forum undoubtedly will recall it.
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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

New Zealand
1206 Posts

Posted - 10/03/2019 :  6:01:11 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Hi Bill.

I know the article you mean. I have a copy of a MRR with it in, and have studied it many times over the years.

What I am attempting is quite different, however, as the ridge on the peninsula will not be a view block and so you will see the back of everything as well as the front. Added to this is working things in with the CBD in the background when being viewed from the outside of the layout. I'm trying to create vistas that show the city behind but block the fascia of the bench-work.

Cheers, Mark.
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Mario Rapinett
Fireman

Australia
5872 Posts

Posted - 10/03/2019 :  7:06:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
[:-thumbu][:-thumbu]
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Frank Palmer
Fireman

USA
5860 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2019 :  11:00:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

I can't get over the color plastic these models are molded in.

Frank
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Carl B
Fireman

USA
3793 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2019 :  11:12:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mark- Still following along-.and enjoying you kit surgery skills.

I was thinking the same thing as you Frank-

Having built many Magnusons myself though- that appears to be the original resin color I always remember- but the "Walthers red" is awful- not sure anybody could use that in its out-of-the-box condition....
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Frank Palmer
Fireman

USA
5860 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2019 :  12:26:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Carl B

not sure anybody could use that in its out-of-the-box condition....



Lionel people could.

Frank
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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

New Zealand
1206 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2019 :  2:35:28 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Maybe, like us, they thought 'we have got to do something to make people stop building these kits without painting them - why don't we try making them a ghastly colour?'

Cheers, Mark.

PS - they are both grey now.
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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

New Zealand
1206 Posts

Posted - 10/12/2019 :  6:50:58 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Hi guys.

Thanks for following along Frank, Carl and Mario.

I have managed to make a bit more progress over the last couple of weeks. I have been working on the background structure made up with walls from the American Hardware kit and the Red Wing mill kit. This structure is at a slight angle to the backdrop and so the structure is a very thin wedge shape. At the right end it is about 1/4" thick while at the left it is 7/8". This meant strength was a problem. I found some aluminium U-channel which was 10mm square and ground and filed the right end down to 5mm (1/4") This was glued to a styrene wedge (with a square for the tower protrusion) and to the back of the structure, one at the base and one near the top. I had to check out the top piece to fit around the door.

Here is a photo of the walls laid out and the tower constructed. There was a bit of fitting and addition of walls form stock styrene to complete the shape. You can see the wedge at the bottom of the pic.


A photo from the back.


Another from the back and above. You can see the aluminium U-channel at the bottom with the filed/ ground section to the left.


And one from the front.


More soon, cheers, Mark.
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Frank Palmer
Fireman

USA
5860 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2019 :  09:54:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Mark, you have such a variety and quantity of building kits. Where do you get them all from? Do you select particular ones or fit and fix where needed? Just an amazing collection of buildings.

Frank
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Carl B
Fireman

USA
3793 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2019 :  10:31:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good question Frank. What say you Mark?
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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

New Zealand
1206 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2019 :  2:59:53 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Mark, you have such a variety and quantity of building kits. Where do you get them all from? Do you select particular ones or fit and fix where needed? Just an amazing collection of buildings.



Hi Frank and Carl.

Well - I have been collecting for years. New Zealand has a importation barrier of $400 NZ (including shipping). That means that whenever you spend more than say $330 NZ (allowing 20% for shipping) you get charged 15% tax and about $40 bio-security charges. (At today's rate I would be able to spend $202 US on kits allowing 20% for postage and $6 for packaging). Even in years gone by when the exchange rate between the US and NZ has been good for me, super kits have been well over this threshold. Instead I would spend my birthday and Christmas money on sale kits from Walthers and Blue ridge hobbies. I would also keep an eye and Ebay and NZ's Trade me and buy when the price was good. With auto-bid and $1 reserve sometimes the price was very good. This is where I gained most of my Campbell kits. I remember buying the Woodland Scenics River Pass building kit (15 kits) for $60 NZ! I have a few of the big ticket items now (mostly bought in Scranton in 2015) , but I am still envious of all those piles of yellow and red boxes under peoples layouts - I have one of each. Of course Acorn models in town has good people and a good selection of very reasonably priced structures and over the years I have picked up a few. I used to always pull out from the bottom shelf - where it lay for years - Heljan's brewery and then think 'not today'. I wondered whether it would be a little crude as it looked a little chunky in places - especially the windows. One day I decided 'today is the day' and it turned out to be one of the best purchases I have ever made. When assembled and painted and weathered it looked good, it had lots of detail and the walls were very versatile for kit-bashing. I have used it for two large (and two of my favourite) kit-bashes on Tellynott and still have walls left over. This process of kit-bashing also means that even after I have built using a kit there is usually a significant amount left over. Walthers American Hardware was used years ago for my Creamoata kit-bash, but I still found enough appropriate walls left over to build the tower section in 'the gap' diorama - and there is still more walls left.

For the second part of this question - it depends. Sometimes I go through my building stash and pick out a kit to see if I can make it work somewhere on the layout. Usually, however, I'm working on a particular area and am after a certain look and so several promising kits will come to mind, be collected and be 'played with' until the best candidates are chosen (or they all go away and I start again!)

I still have two more significant areas of Tellynott (not including the peninsula) to design and build and then I will look at selling what I will no longer need. I doubt I will get much for them so I will put reasonable reserves on them and if they aren't reached I will give them away to someone new in the hobby.

More soon, cheers, Mark.
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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

New Zealand
1206 Posts

Posted - 10/26/2019 :  9:10:23 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Hi guys. Time for an update.

I added mullions to the windows of the brewery gable wall, added side walls from a City Classics side wall (I have heaps of these!), added floors and a roof and made a removable back. This structure has been primed grey.



The Scale Structures front wall structure made from the powerhouse was primed grey. The brickwork was painted with acrylics (bark) and mortar added with chalk. The concrete work was then painted with Floquil SP lettering gray.



Likewise the low relief structure made from the Walthers sugar refinery front wall. The brickwork was painted with 'terracotta'.



The large structure made up of the Walthers Red Wing Mill and American hardware structures had a third auminium piece added to the back at the top and a roof added. This was puttied and sanded and then primed grey. I then gave it a top coat of storm blue and let cure for a couple of days. I then spent a few hours adding low tack painters tap to the internal panels.



I then gave the structure another coat of blue to seal the joints with the base colour (this should mean that any leaching will be in the blue and so not be seen). Once dry I spreyed to structure along with the windows and doors with pearl white.





More soon, cheers, Mark.

Edited by - mark_dalrymple on 10/26/2019 9:15:05 PM
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TRAINS1941
Engineer

USA
12497 Posts

Posted - 10/27/2019 :  12:16:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mark just getting caught up again. Amazing work with all these different kits.
You sure do a great job painting and designing these kits.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln
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Carl B
Fireman

USA
3793 Posts

Posted - 10/27/2019 :  07:26:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mark, you are the master of the bash! [:-thumbu]

Love your brick walls...what is your method for chalk in the mortar joints? What chalk is used? And do you seal it in place?

Thanks
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