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Geezer
Fireman
USA
8194 Posts |
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Keith gamble
New Hire
USA
28 Posts |
 Posted - 01/27/2011 : 8:24:34 PM
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| So this is your first On30 Layout. I think you picked a good scale and gauge to go with. It gives us the oppurtunity to "invent the wheel" No rules here, just dont kill anyone! It is a growing trend where size of the railroad really doesnt matter anymore, its the closer to life detail that sells. It gives the viewer something to study while placing them in the scene as if they are there or have been there. Keep up the good work! |
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BigLars
Fireman
USA
7372 Posts |
Posted - 01/27/2011 : 8:39:15 PM
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Andy,
So what do you use the HP sauce for? Staining ties, weight on the tracks or do you just dink it straight?
Nice progress and you got it wiring I was saying I would bring you to this side of the pond to build my modules... |
Edited by - BigLars on 01/27/2011 8:40:01 PM |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2011 : 07:40:15 AM
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cheers larry, now im going to have to see if HP sauce can stain wood.... reports later. but its normaly found on a nice sheppards pie
keith, yes and no, if that makes sence? ive been modeling on30 for around 4 years. and working on an on30 club layout. just never got around to doing a layout myself. but having modelled 009 in the past the ame rules applied. do as you like because there problebly was a prototype. and dont kill anyone.
picked up some cheap paints and some foamboard for buildings today. a local-ish chain of book stores has gone bust and i picked them up cheap to save for later.
need to cut up the aluminium angle for the cassettes today so i can get cracking on. may also do a drawing to show you guys what im looking to do. its all well and good the image being in my head not much use to anyone else.
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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ba4990
Engine Wiper
USA
113 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2011 : 10:21:06 AM
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Andy,
Cool! Another person who models a narrow gauge railroad in Iowa. I would have never expected to find that person in the UK. I live in western Iowa and from time to time travel around the state. If there is something I might help you with, feel free to drop me a line.
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Bill Allen
A.C. & M.R.V. Ry. |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2011 : 3:01:39 PM
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bill. meny thanks, im sure i'll take you up on that (infact thinking about it what kind of trees do you see around towns?)
having never visted the states its often the little things that are the hardest to find awensers for despit being common things for everyone that side of the pond. luckly this forum being made up of mostly americans. help is always on hand for those little question.
we've had somewhat of a drop in tempture here, but braved the cold to cut up the aluminium and then the off cut of ply that i used for the baseboard tops (that in the 1st place where off cuts from redoing the downstairs loo) was sliced on the bandsaw and luckly (not having checked) at 73mm slices, there was enought ply for 4 cassettes, however being able to only afford one lengh of metal, there was enough for two, plus the little bits on the boards.
anyway i'll be doing s step by step as i have yet to see one. |
"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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ba4990
Engine Wiper
USA
113 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2011 : 4:17:45 PM
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Andy,
I know what you mean. The seemingly insignificant details are the hardest to find, but make the scene unique, IMHO.
Trees around Iowa towns would be red and white oaks, silver and sugar maples with a few red maples, sycamores, and elms would be most common. Apple, mulberry and cherry trees would also be around. Evergreens such as cedar, spruce and eastern white pine would not be unheard of but rarer. I'm not sure about the fifties, but flowering crabapples are common ornamentals around here also. An occasional white birch can be found. I want to stress though that many of these are not necessarily native to this area but were brought from somewhere else and planted because the home owner liked them. Outside of town the species were likly different and depend on what part of Iowa one is in.
Hope this helps! |
Bill Allen
A.C. & M.R.V. Ry. |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 01/29/2011 : 4:37:28 PM
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cheers bill that helps alot, as you'll see (when ever i post this drawing) that a tree will hopfuly hide the entry/exit of the layout and break up the sky that for some bizzare reson unknown to man has two 90' bends in and hopefuly make the freight depot look as if its quite far away, rather then a few feet.
got quite alot done today, and took a quite a few pics that i'll post monday. mostly of the cassette system for the fiddle yard (or staging yard as you guys call it), and made a few card knock ups of buildings to try and get a feel for it.
also for those who watched by porter build last year, took a pic of it V. a bachman standard 0-4-2 porter just to give a better idea of just how much more "chunky" it really is.
tomorrows plan, start on point control. i may take a few pics but im not sure how meny here are not useing someform of motor. but it'll be quite self evident on how it works/made when done.
no rest for the wicked. |
"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2011 : 4:42:54 PM
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quick step-by-step
1st with the rail laid working out how much packing was need to get the angle upto rail hight, in this case some bass wood and plasticcard worked a treat. also find the smallest boston clips you can and soilder feeds to them, this will not only provide power, but hold the cassettes in line.
with the base packing epoxed and pined in plae the small parts of angle can be glue din place, and using a home made gauge set tot he correct gauge.
moving on tot he cassette, by luck with out the cork, and using the same 6mm plywood as used on the basebaorad top would make the anlge the same hight as the rail and so the same hight as the smaller sections of angle glued to the board
1st glueing on one side of the angle and clamping till set
and when set the other glued into place, again useing a gauge set to the correct gauge and clamped and left to set, once the ply has been trimed you'll have a cassette ready for use.
1st checking with a bit of stock that everything rolls well over the joints, so far so good
then testing with a loco
by feeding the clips power is right there and has no problems running on the angle, the only thing left to do is make some stops (slots already cut in the angle for these) and some handles (holes already drilled) and help lift the cassettes on and off the layout, also made a little bolt on shelf since the cassettes are 2 foot long and the fiddle yard is about 1.5feet.
cassetttes systems makes for eays and simple changing of trains as well as making of trains, because of the angle you just plonk some stock on, joggle it a bit and it'l fall into to place, so even if you dont plan on having a removeable cassette, metal strip could be used ina staging yad to make railing that little bit easier.
sorry if this is a bit rushed, but wanted to get this up before bed.
did the point control today, just need to expoy in the pins and it'll be set, will post pics then. |
"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2011 : 05:28:48 AM
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just a quick snap of the point control
quite simply a block of wood with a hole drilled in it, 55mm from one edge, with a matching hole in the side of the baseboard, inline with the hole under the points (made while track laying) and lengh of 9mm dowel is passed thought both holes and a small lenght of steel wire runs up and into the hole int he point switch blade. then the block is glued in place and weighted.
i got the idea from someone who has used dowel and steel wire to change his points on a home layout, and thought by drilling holes .5mm larger then the dowel would be strong enough to hold, and indeed it dose with little play, plus by the time ive trimed the ends and added the back board supports will be well protected.
hopfuly *touch wood* this will stay fool proof. and not to add to switch 4 points has cost me £1.50 id say its quite the bargin. and if i move them over slowly, and run a battery drill at the same time, people will think i have slow action point motors :D
also yesterday i took a couple of my card mock buildings and cut them out in foamboard, (i think its the same stuff troels uses on some of his buildings?) its light, stiff and cuts well, i made a total of 3 flats so far with in 2 hours all parts where cut then glued at once, and it makes for a very solid base.
i also found some prestained wood i did a while ago, nothing good on telly so started to clad one building to get an idea of how it may look. and dry brushed it with white, its not a perfect match for pealing paint, but i like it so far,.
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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milocomarty
Fireman
Netherlands
4927 Posts |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
Canada
4876 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2011 : 09:32:55 AM
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Andy, Great way on making the cassette for the staging, another simple yet great solution. The building flat is looking great too.
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Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2011 : 3:39:07 PM
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cheers, just trying to use up about 10 packs of strip wood i brought a while ago (thinking it was per strip since the cost was so little) so when it turned out to be to ten packs of ten lenghts :P
but 3 years on and im down to my last 2 packs. hopefuly most will go on a larger flat to fill and hider the corner in the backboard when done. then im never ever ever doing clapboard board for board ever ever again (well maybe a few times)
im trying not to rush onto the next stage of the layout, but alas the next task is painting the track. and money is tight untill next week.
i guess thats the other goal of this layout "spend as little as i can" |
"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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milocomarty
Fireman
Netherlands
4927 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2011 : 3:50:04 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by andykins
i guess thats the other goal of this layout "spend as little as i can"
That's my man, like that intake to do low budget modeling  |
Grtz Martin..
http://cardiganbaycoastalrailroad.wordpress.com/ |
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andykins
Fireman
United Kingdom
3890 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2011 : 4:04:19 PM
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having little to no income with bursts of income helps the low budget.
so far it looks as if the more expensive parts will be DCC system (£160ish) and a flocking grass flocker :D (£85) ive tried homemade efforts and they are ok, but the smaller fly swat ones dont seam to work to well with longer strands, and a friend who made a larger one gave me so meny shocks i started to look like slash.
the only other thing is locos and stock, but i have a stash of kits and stock i can piddle about with later on |
"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
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numpty's creek narrow gauge RR
