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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
17653 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2011 :  04:37:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pics are better, and display your very nice work on this ship. Congrats for a beautiful model, Rhett!

Frederic Testard
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  07:50:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks. Got some work done on Benny's this morning. After testing the LED in the stucture previously I knew I had to shield the light because it illumunated through the thin wood. I cut a piece of 1/4" styrene tubing to fit across from front to back wall, then cut a slot down the length so the light would shine down on the scene. I soldered the wires to the LED (using red and black so I could keep track of the positive lead). I figured where I wanted the light in the tube and cut a slot transversly on each side of the tube near the LED. That was to bend the lead to leave the tube on opposite sides to reduce risk of a short. I used modelers putty to seal the ends of the tube so I wouldn't have light shining through the walls at the end. A litle glue to secure the LED and leads and some electrical tape cut thin near the end of the tube to secure the leads before bending the wires to direct them through the hole I had to enlarge th hole through the base in the bathroom (I had soldered the resistor in the line to go beneath the table without thinking about the size of the hole). Attached the roof sheets and eaves. Next step is to decide on the shingles and attach the doors. A little scenic work on the diorama base and I should be finished. I gave up on the idea of making a fiber optic light to shine over the sign after I tried to bend 3/64" brass tubing this morning with very poor results.Will have to come up with a method to do it and keep it from kinking or flattening out in tight bends. The tools I have don't work at this size. I know from the shops at the shipyard we use inserts when bending large tubing so maybe if I insert a wire and bend it I may be able to then pull the wire out.
Trying to learn about Nn3 I did some research and searched through the logging ans narrow minded forum. Did not find a topic addressed to this in particular. I found On3, Sn3, HOn3, but very little on Nn3. Is there any interest in narrow gauge for N scale? It might be a nice topic if there is enough interest in it.
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11060 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  08:21:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rhett try filling (pack it tight) the tube with sand before bending. As far as Nn3 goes I don't know of anyone on this forum other than Cody (and I'm not 100% sure he has) that has tried it. But feel free to start a thread on it, you may smoke some Nn3er's out of the woodwork! I know price as been a barrier for some in the past.

Mike
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acousticco
Fireman

Canada
1520 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  3:28:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit acousticco's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Rhett, As Mike said I do a little Nn3 but haven't done much of anything with it in a while. I've only got a few Micro-Trains and Toma Model Works cars and two unconverted Z scale engines that I pull them around with. I had started a pizza layout http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19185 way back in 2007 but never finished it, at some point I stripped it down to the track and it's been that way since. Although I do still dig out my Z & Nn3 stuff and run them around the loop every once and a while. I was actually playing with them yesterday...

I've found that Nn3 will run nicely if you keep tour track and wheels very, very clean, The Micro-Trains Z scale GP runs really nicely but I'm not sure what kind of Nn3 engine I could bash it into. The Marklin stuff I've had also runs pretty nice but is not as good at slow speeds, but still pretty okay. Nigel Lawton sells some tiny motors that will improve Marklin engines at slow speeds, but I've never tried it.

What kind of Nn3 trains were you thinking of building? There's a little bit of Colorado and logging stuff available but much scratchbuilding will be involved I think...

-Cody
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spyder62
Engine Wiper

USA
496 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  5:38:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit spyder62's Homepage  Reply with Quote
For Nn3 check out wwww.aspenmodel.com or Republic locomotive works they both have conversion kits and rtr engines and cars. I just had a Aspen 30085 #74 kit converted over to the new Japanese Mikado chassis. It makes a nice Nn3 2-8-0. We ran it at the last show for a few hours pulling 8 new 60 foot double stack cars. No photos my chip died at the show.
rich
rslaserkits

In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one useless man is a shame,
two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.
--John Adams
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  9:59:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Okay, I will start a thread to continue this conversation. I know very little about this topic but I love a challenge.Rich I saw that model on the Aspen site - very nice. The Republic Locomotive site is what hooked me.
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  10:25:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike, thanks for the tip about the sand. I'll give it a try.
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acousticco
Fireman

Canada
1520 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2011 :  10:30:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit acousticco's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Check out Toma Model Works as well: http://www.tomamw.com/ They're based on Japanese prototypes but they're very nice kits to assemble. I'm working on one of the small passenger cars at the moment : http://homepage1.nifty.com/tfw/0161/0161e.html

-Cody
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2011 :  06:38:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I found a site through somewhere I can't remember (hate it when that happens) but it led me to this site http://www.randgust.com/prod01.htm which has Class A Climax kits, 13 & 18 ton options and round or square tank options



You need a Kato chassis as the site explains. I ordered both the round and square tank verions of the 18-ton kit and found the Kato critters with no problem. There is a further mod you can make replacing the Kato motor with a robotics motor that limits the speed to about 9 scale mph. The instructions come in a pdf with a supplement. They appear very clear and thorough with plenty of pics for visual. Looks like a fun project. This is an N scale kit not Nn3. My Nn3 Climax from RLW came in the mail but haven't had time to look at it yet. Will be interesting to compare these two kits.
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11060 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2011 :  07:12:45 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Neat, which Kato chassis does it use?

Mike
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adrian_batey
Crew Chief

Australia
750 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2011 :  07:17:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit adrian_batey's Homepage  Reply with Quote
i built one of these climax locos a year or so ago and have another one there to build.
It uses Kato 11-105, 106, or 107. Pretty cheap from memory but mine wont pull anything nor get up a slight grade.
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acousticco
Fireman

Canada
1520 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2011 :  07:41:55 AM  Show Profile  Visit acousticco's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I have a Randgust Climax to build, but am torn between a building a standard N scale version or modifying it to an HOn30 model. It looks to be a nice kit. Adrian, I'm surprised to hear that your Kato pocket mechanism doesn't run well, I have a half dozen of them under different N & HOn30 models and they all run very well, if a little fast. They improve the more weight you can fit, but I see how that's a challenge with the Climax...

-Cody
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2011 :  07:57:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
In the instructions he recommends testing it before assembling the kit, maybe just a bad motor. On the e-mail he sent he said he's been working with some metal tanks on his custom work but he might make them available if wanted. The metal tanks I'm sure would help add weight. It sounded like he was using castings. I got to look at the RLW kit real fast since I picked it up on the way to work. Didn't examine it to hard or open the bags but it looks like a real nice casting, I may be wrong but it looks all metal. I found the Kato 11-105 online chassis for about $38, you may find it cheaper I didn't do much hunting. I did checkout the robotics motor and they were about $15. I may get one of them just to play with. they are 3V and need a resistor to knock down the voltage.
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 03/07/2011 :  07:23:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Got some more done on Benny's yesterday, went with tarpaper on the roof and added a small smoke stack for the potbelly stove. Finished up a few details to go around the exterior, picnic table, pick-up truck, bike stand etc. Only thing that bothers me is a slight sheen on the roof. After laying the tarpaper had some spots from the cement so after it was dry I went over it with grimy black and then dry brushed it later with some dark black and put some dullcote over it, but it still seems to have a little sheen. Maybe I just need to rough it up a bit with some fine sand paper. I'll post some pics in the next day or so.
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HurleyStation
Engine Wiper

USA
257 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2011 :  07:30:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Got my Randgust 18-Ton Climax kits yesterday. He has added an alternate cast metal boiler. All the castings, resin and metal, are impressive. Very nice detailing. He is thinking of using the cast metal boiler as standard in the kits. He would like feedback so this may be my next build. Just waiting on my couplers and chassis to come in. I also ordered a couple of the 13-Ton Climax kits and some ore car kits he has. It will be interesting to compare these with the RLW Climax kit I have (waiting on couplers and chassis for that to). The Randgust kits are in N using Kato 11-105, 106 or 107 powered chassis with optional mod using a robotics motor. The RLW kit is in Nn3 using a Z scale Micro-trains F-7 powered chassis (980-01-000). This should be fun.
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